Onoff

SHE'S said: "I thought we were mitreing the wet room corner?" My own fault for showing her THAT photo I suppose! Fire up the Pritt Stick!

Comes down to this will become a "leave as is / not worth the hassle" when you don't have a spare way in the cu to run a dedicated circuit or to do so will mean such disruption to finishes as alluded to above to run the cable with ripping up floors etc. Might be a live 'n learn! Maybe you could shame the sparks into giving you a few quid of his bill for the aggravation if you can live with it. Remember, the day (night? ) you have an earth fault on those sockets the lights are going off! Edit: The sparks might try and suggest (it might be the case) that it was some material change you made to an agreed spec, like adding circuits meant there were no spare ways left in the cu but he still should have advised. Remember PPPPPP!

I'm not touting the SBS products but a couple of pics of a pre assembled line of DP RCBOs done for a customer with an existing cu - in this instance Wylex. The idea as I alluded to above is out with the old main switch, RCDs and breakers. For every 2-module wide RCD you ditch you get space for two more circuits. In a split load board thats 4 more ways. Each circuit is protected by its own RCBO and if it trips it affects no other circuit. Clips onto the existing DIN rail. Tails into the main switch, line and neutral for each circuit into the L & N atop each RCBO and all cpcs (earths) to the earth bar of the cu. Note the separate L & N bars running under the line of RCBOs - means you don't have a neutral bar on the enclosure like on most.

Tbh taking SO long over the bathroom is deep seated. The rest of the house is so bad that to do a room generally means walls, back to brick/block, plasterboard down to sort, straighten, renew ceiling joists and floors replaced / dug down and built back up. To have a sanctuary, isolated to get cleaned up in from all this will be nice.

Stuff is certainly cheaper up North on sites like Gumtree. Generally the price I want to pay but not the distance I want to travel

The consensus is it seems a bit of a bodge in the face of how most would approach it but not unsafe. It may be inconvenient if both trip. The fuse blows, the first thought is to go to the cu not the fused connection unit. Might not be someone who knows what's been done and where things are.

Just ordered, Hudson Reed: + £126 all in. Going like this, centre knob will be about 1200mm off the deck: Need a rainfall head now and I'm stuck! 200, 300, 400mm? And where to place over a nom 1200 x 1200 wet room area? Dead centre? Missus wants circular rather than square. We both agree we want it ceiling mounted, like a tile rather than on a stalk. I think it needs blue LEDs...

Presumably Scottish mice like their chocolate on a deep fried Mars Bar / Snickers / Toffee Crisp? Never forget the first time I saw them all plus pizza on a menu in an Edinburgh chippy.

It's good practice to leave a couple of spare ways in the consumer unit. Wondering if your board was big enough in the first place. I and most would put the lights on their own breaker. Fused spurs are permissible but it's going to be a bit impractical if the say downstairs lights are fed from a fused spur off the downstairs ring. If the RCD goes you lose lights AND power. If you get my drift? If the fused spur is say 5A then an over current or short circuit on the lights should just take out the 5A fuse and not affect the "sockets" circuit it's fed from. However if either circuit has an earth leakage fault the RCD will trip losing power to both. The BS is pretty specific about one circuit going out not affecting another. Though a split board is always going to be a compromise on that, careful arrangement with regards to up not affecting down minimises the issue. Of course the BS isn't law! Money no object you could likely ditch the two RCDs / breakers and clip a line of RCBOs to the DIN rail. It has been done, retaining the same cu.

My flat coated retriever would wait until the cat dropped whatever it had caught then pounce and bolt down the half dead mouse / bird etc. It would generally reappear during dinner when what the dog ate would disagree with it. Then both the cat and dog would ignore it.

When my son was a toddler he'd suddenly have a cracker or raisins in his hand with one of us thinking the other had given them to him. It took us a while to figure he was stashing food down the 3-piece plastic corner protectors (stapled to the base) we'd never bothered to take off.

When I first met the missus she had a Jack Russell cross...and horses. Rats made a nest behind a great big bag of pony nuts in the corner of the stable. Clever dog dug through the feed bag to get at the nest. Tbh made more mess than the rats! It killed two rats released from a trap once in quick succession, the second was halfway up a wall!

Don't feed the things in the first place...like we do albeit inadvertently! All our veg compost goes in a compost bin but food scraps are referred to as "fox food". I like foxes btw. Sat with my then baby daughter once with 5 foxes about 10' away and two the other side of the fence. The other week I put some out and a dirty great rat appeared out of the hedge. Seconds later a fox appeared and was more interested in following the rat's scent trail than the scraps. Rats apparently form a large part of a fox's diet.

Catch and release? Yeah right! Unless it's into one of these:

"it seems that post re-wire, that at least part of the downstairs wiring is on the sockets circuits" Do you mean downstairs LIGHTS wiring is on the sockets circuits? "additional switch" Do you mean a circuit breaker? Maybe it's been done as a temporary thing. Sometimes a feed for lighting is taken off the ring or radial but usually fused down accordingly. Circuits should be segregated accordingly say if using a split load board with two RCDs. So Downstairs Sockets on RCD1, Downstairs Lights on RCD2. In the event of any circuit trippping one of the RCDs you can still plug in a lead light etc or run an extension for something like a freezer whilst you fix the other side. This is why also all RCBO is best.

I think part of our problem is underground. I have a feeling that where the later parts of the property join the original, under the floors there's maybe mortar gaps in the block / brickwork. This allows access under suspended timber floors, up via the cavity walls etc. There's a thick concrete path about 4' wide runs across the front of the house and I think "things" get under there too. Got some old fashioned clay air bricks with holes maybe 10mm x 10mm. Thinking to put some st/st mesh over them. The outside render is in places "knobbly" providing perfect grip to run up. Also have a cherry tree that overhangs which needs lopping. I've seen a squirrel jumping from it onto the roof. I've taken to drilling holes in the floorboards (under the carpet) with my Cavity Master kit to create bait "drop zones". (None of the carpets are properly fitted anyway).

+1

We have the faint whiff of "dead rat" smell at the mo upstairs! Preceeded as always by a few unseasonal blue bottles. Something gets in, finds the poison I've laid in the loft and it does the trick. I dread to think how many skeletons and nests are in the inaccessible areas.

I've cut tile batten down to prop from the opposite wall.

I've decided to sell my Hoover... well, it was just collecting dust.

I've used either Wardrobe Door Gear No.1 or 2.....can't remember which. Not overly impressed tbh. I need to revisit my work sometime! https://www.stormguard.co.uk/product-category/slik-sliding-door-gear/

Built in vacuum systems? I've heard they suck.

Do you have any cladding left over? Maybe you could knock up a "test rig" with a few boards and see how it performs after staining or whatever for a couple of months.

Wish I'd never used my Nectar card for similar in a emergency one time. Not only did I mod it with a Stanley knife I didn't check how many points were on it. I'm reminded every time I'm in Sainsburys when they ask " Do you have a Nectar card?"