Onoff

I wonder if they would accept Blackamoor House...

I've got a "riser cupboard" left where I shifted the doorway so likely everything will go in there rather than the loft. Makes everything accessible and puts outside the bathroom. Bath control box will live there, UFH sensor probe comes up there, bath strip LED controller. From there I'll tube up into the loft and run singles to each point. Don't forget this lot: http://www.taptilecontrols.com

Pretty sure I'll go with Quinetic Kinetic switching so I can have one as I enter the bathroom and one within easy reach whilst in the bath. Just hope the signal gets through the foil on the pir! £66 for 1 switch and 3 receivers if I go: Sw1 - downlights, Sw2 - pocket / bath side panel Sw3 - the rc LED strip alongside the bath. Have to mull that over.

Can do...except I've ordered the 8W rather than the 4.9 & cheaper than Clearance! https://auroraclearance.com/xen-de8we.html

After much erring I've decided to go with what I'm comfortable with, bog standard downlights in the ceiling. The procrastination stemmed from me having "wrapped" the bathroom in a vcl in an attempt to isolate it from the rest the house. I was so worried about penetrating this airtight layer! I considered putting in a false ceiling even. More relaxed now as in the future I plan major roof mods that will put the loft space above the bathroom within the thermal envelope. A bit of planning to ensure nice, neat galv conduit runs to each lamp position such is my rat/squirrel/mouse paranoia! https://www.ledbulbs.co.uk/enlite-e8-8w-fixed-dimmable-fire-rated-led-downlight-cool-white Lamps on order!

Just to hijack this thread, My flat roof is one big one but it's split into two by the ridge feature: I think they first laid the ply deck then put down a first layer of felt across the whole area. Then they built the ridge from 4"x2" and felted, battened, tiled that. Subsequent re roof before we bought it saw them simply over felt what was there: The plan is to raise the roof pitch considerably but keep below the ridge line obviously!

Rather than acrylic. This might be a cheap "overcoat", says in the tech data it can be applied to damp roofs: https://www.everbuild.co.uk/product/906-bitumen-roofing-emulsion/ Thinking it's CHEAP to throw 5L at the area: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Roofing+%26+Drainage/d250/Roof+Compound+%26+Waterseals/sd2809

If you've "filled the crevasse" then ideally you need to put a waterproof layer over that and the adjacent felt. The acrylic ones I think can generally be applied to a wet substrate but are more expensive than the bitumen based ones. If doing a large area I look on the tin as to the square metre coverage and pour x litres dead centre of each square metre. Then use a cheap, soft bristle broom. Much quicker. Keep a litre back for contingencies! The acrylic stuff is weird, goes on like hairy paint (that's the fibres) then settles out smooth. If it's still hairy you're spreading it too thin! Cromapol was the worst I've used for "spreadability" and working time compared to Flexacryl, Acrypol and Wickes own version. I would expect Evercryl from TS to be pretty good as most EverBuild products I've had are: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p80073?table=no I'd use Cromapol again though purely on price. Shop around. You might want a 5kg / 5L tin as once you start sweeping and investigating things might look worse!

Condensate drain pipes or trays with pipes tend to be de rigueur on commercial installs.

I went from this: To filling the edge splits with compound and localised painting over that and the old felt: To painting a bit of the roof: Then a bit more, then the whole roof even buying a 20kg drum. (I used Cromapol last time). Probably done £500 over a few years. And it still leaks. Oddly, my leaks are confined generally to the edges (touch wood). It's a 3/4" plywood deck under mine. I reckon OSB would have long since fallen through. This and the mirror image other side might have to be my next project but I want to sort the roof slope (raise), insulate the dormers better at the same time and maybe do fibreglass or EPDM. (Quite fancy a go at how @Barney12 did his hidden gutters). £££ & time!

Got to admit I struggle a little with the kimchi. I find it better if well drained for a start. Tried in a smoked salmon sandwich which was OK. Best was when eaten with pickled onions and walnuts!

Get a trowel on roof repair compound. Wickes do a load of them. Like a thick mastic. Careful as not all can be applied to a damp/wet surface so read the tin. Yard broom the area of all the loose crap then trowel / smear the stuff on. It does work but is a stop gap. I feel your pain. I've two flat roof dormers that are disintegrating. Spent a fortune on brush on watetproofing compounds like Flexacryl but it only buys a bit of time. The brush on acrylic type is different from the trowel on compound which is bitumen based. I found the top layer of felt butted together rather than lapped! I've resorted to this at the moment:

Truth be told you should be using duct rated Cat cable in a duct... It's all very well saying you'll use a powerline adapter but what about gate release, intercom, video etc?

How come it's not black like the bat cave & chicken coop?

Old school! From the electronics kit I got for Christmas in 1973, I used Veroboard instead of blotting paper...it went green outside! I remember trying to convince my Mum all she needed to do was watch for the lamp to light to know it was raining:

Didn't a guy nearly die thinnng his reed bed out? BAD enough that the company stopped doing them?

Right, bored with tile talk! Going to go and mark out for the downlights & body dryer.

Fecal transplants? You heard right! Basically there's a school of thought that you can take a healthy, skinny persons gut bacteria and introduce it to an obese person. Generally to try and cure IBS like diseases or even hard to shift c.diff infections.There's a big underground movement for this that quite literally involves poo, a liquidizer, piping bag etc and bending over to take the medicine! Of course there's risks and it's sometimes done between family members as in "you know where they've been" hopefully. It can apparently work and avoid life changing surgery: https://www.everydayhealth.com/ulcerative-colitis/one-familys-personal-experience-with-fecal-transplants.aspx The downside is that although it can cure one thing it can cause other issues: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/health-31168511 I've even read it could get to the stage where we in the West pay 3rd world "donors". Brown gold was the term used. Anyone with gut/skin problems give this Kimchi a go. All I can say is it worked for me! https://www.sainsburys.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/gb/groceries/yutaka-korean-kimchi-215g?langId=44&storeId=10151&krypto=WsBabqNuFOluUEEIn80yOqfZrPZDEwZU8OJar81ugGJaSIVAgRzfUaKwKzynPm47jn17WlSVXdeLASw1sNEYxxE39SL8gTRIkbCy89nKO%2BZZU0WkvKDU%2BUQ%2FyZw8jkBZKPHmJR5ptj2JgavtqaVoKfDgtvb4IR42yaeG7uxoJgg%3D&ddkey=https%3Agb%2Fgroceries%2Fyutaka-korean-kimchi-215g

I seriously debated a tray under my half sunken bath. Tbh though I followed @Nickfromwales tips to the letter for sealing the trap in etc so reckon I'm good. If water does get in there it'll be straight through that pear drop shaped hole in the ply and be held within the floor under the slab by the DPM.

Caeserean births / asthma another possible link. I read something about symbiotic parasitic worms having evolved to survive in our gut by turning off or dampening down our immune system.

Give the thread a good squirt of penetrating oil a few days beforehand. https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Automotive/d60/Lubricants+%26+Sprays/sd2795/Penetrating+Oil/p62311

You can get duct couplers you know? You usually get one with a roll of duct. Plus your duct supplier will have them as extras. You could repair the join by screwing the coupler on with some CT1 etc smeared round the duct. A bitch if the duct is already in the ground possibly!

If your main duct is big enough dia wise you could run a separate pvc flexible conduit within it alongside the armoured cable. You can get it down to about 12mm internal diameter. Shop around. I've some 20mm couplers I think somewhere if you had to buy shorter lengths and couple them. That puts them in "separate compartments". The On Site Guide says 50mm separation (internal & external cables) between Band 1 & 2. This separation distance need not be maintained if the cables are in separate conduits / a non conducting divider. In separate "ducts" even if close they're less likely to be "touching" along their length and suffer from "mutual effects". The gap between cables, along their length will vary too (which is good). Money no object you can get shielded Cat-6 but that has special plugs etc that need to be earthed. I know jack (pun intended) about networking beyond the very basics.

Lots of info here: http://www.thermcouk.com/immersion-heater-info/

Try again: Mixer on the right by the window.