Onoff

Some cat breeds are more hypoallergenic than others...

I reckon I'll be sleeping downstairs tonight and vacating our upstairs bedroom. Eau de rat / squirrel / bird or whatever has died is chucking up something chronic! All the upstairs floors of the big dormer are glued joints / angular ring nailed T&G sheets. The dormer has 8"x2" floor joists but these sit about a foot above the downstairs ceiling joists that are infilled with 4" roll insulation. So there's a massive inaccessible "space" wherein God knows what resides!

https://www.kingspan.com/meati/en-in/product-groups/insulation/knowledge-base/faqs/general/what-is-the-difference-between-xps-and-eps

At least my SHED's built!

LED rainfall head AND lights in the pockets might illuminate that corner enough?

But Nick's single shelf to the left and drain alignment messes up the symmetry imo! I'll have another think...mount the slider rail on the mitre and have a pocket either side. Only issue there is limited depth for the pocket on the right.

I even drilled tiles with the Bosch bits once to fit a loo roll holder when I had nothing else. Worked a treat.

From my other threads many will know I'm planning a rainfall shower head set on the ceiling above the wet room corner. Something like this: The wife wants a "round" one rather than square so that's still under discussion. The thing is that before deciding on the above I was having a downlight in pretty much the same position. There WERE to be 4 downlights; 1 over the bath, 1 over the basin, 1 over the wc (I read "in there" lot ) and this one above the shower. So I started to look at the LED ones, like this but to be ceiling mounted: The thing is I don't think the LED ones will light the shower area well enough. Ideally I want a shower head, in stainless whereby I can fit a, IPx7, SELV downlighter slap bang in the centre. This rather than separate lighting over the shower area. Figure even if well above Zones 1 & 2 and not subject to direct splashing it's wise to treat as if it's in Zone 0! I've even considered making one. Other than there'll be a downlight sized hole in the centre of the rainfall can anyone see anything against this idea?

Also grab a couple of Starrett pilot drills, the 1/4" HsCo ones. They'll go thru thick steel like I beams without a pilot a piece of pi$$. Always use cutting compound when cutting steel, it'll make your drill bits last longer. Drill a bit, dip in the tin, repeat. Even a smear on a hacksaw blade helps. Brands to look for are RTD, Trefolex, Temaxol.

I'm betting those Novellini doors weren't cheap? Going to try without first. If it's impractical then I'll attach glass wings or doors up the mosaic line as I've studs there. This is the current manisfestation! 1 tile width for the mitre then 2 either side. Just need to widen (move?) the mosaic strip: (I know my grout lines are off, I'd had a beer, was knackered and still high from watching the new Jumanji! )

That is so good to hear! Off the wall this but I've read in a few places that kimchi is supposed to help with asthma. A bit of an acquired taste maybe but I started eating recently as I'm a believer that we have basically killed off our good gut bacteria with our sanitised Western diet and over use of antibiotics that kill good and bad. Results for me have been great. I've lost weight, have more energy and No.2s "better" (tmi I know). One unexpected thing is a skin rash I've had for years on one shin has completely cleared. Got it from Sainsburys.

As well as the spot welds my Capri wings (original fitment) are brazed a little bit at the headlamp bowl / front valance junction. Ideally I want to melt this join. I usually make a hash of this bit tbh.I've got leads and gauges for oxy acetylene but no bottles!I tried my plumbing MAPP gas torch. I believe the flame gets nearly to oxy acetylene temperatures. Deffo gets hot enough but the flame isn't concentrated enough to melt the braze.Is there any way to mod the MAPP gas nozzle?Cheers

The DeWalt set is the mutt's nuts. Good price too at the mo here, cheaper than FFX even. Good in stainless too. https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-extreme-2-hss-drill-bit-set-29pc/20064?tc=AA7&ds_rl=1249796&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249481&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0NSn66S_2AIV7ZztCh17ngIIEAQYASABEgIy4fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CKzA6_Kkv9gCFcykUQodLrUIRQ BUT.....it's crap if you want to drill a big hole by working up from small sizes. The tip shape won't self centre on a pre drilled hole. Edit: To clarify, drilling a FRESH hole i.e with no pilot hole then tip shape is good as it self centres in the material. Also get yourself a set of Bosch multi construction bits. I keep sets in the different tool totes as in plumbing, leccy. They do what they say on the tin and drill timber / metal / masonry. Amazing really. Shop around but these (also there's a 4-piece cheaper set): http://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/bosch-mcb-set-7pieces-robust-line-drill-bit-set#gref

Midway through my bathroom build I had to temporarily divert the single pipe 3/4" nominal bore copper system that feeds my downstairs CH. The diversion is in 22mm plastic The room it runs across where the stairs are has no heating but this creates a lovely warm line across the floor!

Arthritic parents & in-laws! There are a number of variations tbh: Stick on to an existing plug. Tried these before - need to make sure the surface of the plug is dead clean with IPA etc. No good really on say a heavy duty rubber plug: Flat bit of plastic, a variation on this is one shaped like a dog bone and wraps around: Moulded - handle the other way:

Get some Easi-Pull plugs maybe: https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/351794624747

I don't know if the missus will go for it but I have, salvaged from our first house a +1" thick marble kitchen slab. That might work for sentimental reasons if I were to get a triangular piece water jet cut out of it? When those doors in your picture opened up did they "join" together as in a magnetic strip etc to form an enclosure?

Ooh! hark at Mr "I can do this with one arm behind my back in a cast!" I blame YOU for everything! Did you make a model first? Pretty much what I'm aiming at. You now have me thinking whether it would be better to have the pocket off to one side and the slider rail on the mitre like you have. Much card to be guillotined before I decide!

That corner is bloody cold as it's where the 4" soil comes in through the wall. Can't see that packing it with a bit more insulation can hurt!

I have followed @Nickfromwales advice and bought one of these: Complicated is good, keeps the brain ticking over! As for the mitred corner, it was Nick who posted one he's done and it looks cool...plus the wife is keen. A big dose too of could I as opposed to should I!

Touché!...or do I mean Douche?

Yep, it'll be a fixed overhead rainfall head if I can decide the size then a slider bar on the wall with hose / wander head which I've already ordered (as pic) along with the diverter valve. The valve will divert between the two. So either or but not both.

Across the mitred corner in the picture above is 400mm - the tiles are 400x250. BUT...as is there's ugly rips either side. If I bring the lhs mosaic in toward the corner by making it a tad wider then it'll be two full tiles to the mitre. Similar on the rhs by the window. Where the 3-way valve is shown I can make that up to a full width tile as necessary. Widen the mosaic strip a bit by the window and again it'll give me two full tiles from mosaic to mitre. Everything will look symmetrical. Going to take some working out but I'll take my time... One bug is I think the edge of the UFH will be under the mitre. Updated model to follow!

And tonight we're back to discussing whether to mitre the corner or not! Just realised the pocket's are a tile too high! I reckon if I go for a tile width on the mitre I can go two full tiles either way if I maybe widen the mosaic strips a tad.

So many points there! Tbh I can't answer them all, only really generalise. See here for the SBS page ref certification: https://www.sbstradesales.co.uk/products/ Somebody else on here recently went all DP RCBO but not from SBS as SBS sell to trade only. They went to Live Electrical for their stuff. I think the Live and SBS DP RCBO's are all made in the same factory. Live have strong Chinese links as in company directors: https://beta.companieshouse.gov.uk/company/07429017/officers There's some tie up as SBS use Live boards. My take on the mix 'n match is that individual components like the metal enclosure and a line of like RCBOs even if from different makers, when put together, combine to satisfy the regs. Most problems are caused IMO when people fit / force in the physically wrong sized breaker with different busbar offsets. Don't know what an insurance company would make of it in the event of an issue... When a split load board of any make simply doesn't comply with the regs anyway I'd see such an upgrade as making an old board more compliant rather than less. We all know split load boards are a compromise. That's all I've got!