Onoff

Sunamp?

I'm going to steal that idea back for mine! I've 15mm drops in copper for the sink and bath (same pipe split to each). Shower will be a separate run from the pump.

I adopted one my brother wanted rid of. Carefully dug it up and replanted in what must be the ideal spot in our garden. Between the shed and oil tank and backed by a conifer hedge. It loves it and we get tennis ball sized figs if I wrap them early enough to keep the wasps off. Wish I'd known about it rooting though! I thought it was the plum tree shoots coming up next to the oil tank!

Any recommendations? This: https://www.eazyview.com/product/eazyview-tradesman-record-8/ or this: https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/inspection-camera-with-colour-24-inch-lcd-monitor-n92gw Cheers

Was that that "module" I found for the demister?

I feel your pain. Went to do a bit of minor electrical work at my elderly parents house the other week. Hoarders you say? I know that well. So deep in piled clothes and tat upstairs I did everything in self adhesive trunking in the end. Things smell and are often wet or covered in "stuff". Sadly this isn't down to leaking roofs or pigeons! Well worth getting yourself a copy of this if you're planning electrical work. Will at least give you a good insight and help you avoid making silly mistakes. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electricians-Guide-To-The-Building-Regulations-4-th-Edition-IET-Wiring-Regs-2015/182864053326?epid=209582606&hash=item2a938c044e:g:gCgAAOSwIJlZ9j1K

I'm betting you'll need a sharp blade to cut the bead of CT1!

I was treated in my 20's for Psittacosis. I was working in roof top plant rooms sometimes quite literally 6" deep in pigeon sh!t. The regard for H&S wasn't what it is now. Apparently if it progresses it can be really nasty but I got as far as coughing up blood and feeling like I was dying! First GP suggested it was anxiety and "Had I been rowing with my wife?" when I went complaining of severe shortness of breath. By the time I saw the 2nd GP things had progressed to "Look what's on this tissue!" and it was straight to hospital, X-rays and massive doses of antibiotics. We had then locally a (long gone) Infectious Diseases hospital where I was seen. I was doing up my 1st house at the time which I bought with half a roof and again lots of pigeon debris so I couldn't 100% say where I got it from. I think that 30 years on I've still been left with a left side weakness as I've twice since had shadows on my left lung where chest infections have taken hold. EDIT: Just remembered one of those really sh!tty sites was in HARLOW...Essex!

I hoping to have a look at the system at the Detling show on Saturday.

I've used the Wickes equivalent years back and rendered over it.

The trial version of this is pretty good though only goes up to 5m span from memory: http://www.runet-software.com/WOODexpress.htm

North of the river! Greetings & welcome! Has this only just started happening or is it a long standing thing? As in have you done any work that might have screwed through or crushed a cable? Coat hooks, picture frames, cupboards, shelves are all contenders. I am assuming you have an old Wylex board with rewireable fuse carriers? You've then tried adding a plug in MCB made specifically for upgrading Wylex boards, like this (albeit 6A): The fuse / MCB is doing what it is supposed to be doing almost certainly. Do you have any leaks anywhere or vermin damaged cabling? You have a point of "low resistance" somewhere most likely. Could be anything; a crushed cable that has to heat (over time) to expand to then touch something it shouldnt and cause the fuse to pop. I've found junction boxes partially filled with water that you can hear crackle / buzz before the fuse blows or MCB trips. Your lighting circuit is likely on a 5A fuse wire. It is likely wired as a radial circuit rather than a ring which is generally for wall sockets. You mention "piggy backing". If you mean by that that socket outlets have been wired onto the lighting circuit then aside from being a huge no-no does the lighting circuit fuse blowing coincide with any "plug in" in or hard wired appliance coming on? Do you tread on a certain floorboard etc? You can do some basic checks with one these types of socket testers, colloquially known as a "Martindale". https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electrical/d190/Electrical+Test+Equipment/sd3348/Socket+Tester/p82826 Turn the lights off and go round each socket plugging it in. That'll give a good indication nothing is fed off the lights. An Electrical Inspection Condition Report by a scheme member (NICEIC, ELECSA, STROMA ETC) would be your best best. Edit: Any idea how old the wiring is, black and red cored twin & earth is it? Any of the cables black rubber or lead covered?

Geberit...electric...must mean the Aquaclean? Handy if your hands are a bit knackered...

Trouble is I haven't screeded the wet room corner yet and that will take an age to dry. To do the floor tiles I need the wet room corner screeded. If I do that I won't be able to walk on it for ??? Before I do that I want to to more boxing in to mitre that corner & get the shower valve in. I was thinking to tile the walls starting 1 up from the floor the come back later and infill with the bottom row of cut tiles.

So if I mark a line 15mm up from the concrete floor, (8mm for the adhesive + 7mm for the tile) that will be the bottom of my door frame? Cheers

Trying to source some shiny glass beads at the mo! https://www.thinkgreenenergy.co.uk/ "It all begins with a quick consultation" then 3 hours later the **** is STILL there trying to get you to sign up!

So the man came round....from Think Green Energy. Didn't have any brochures or even leave a card. Seemingly they felt an ASHP was the wrong thing as quite expensive so he tried to sell them a "pv optimiser that limits the voltage going to the inverter". British made in Sheffield. He showed them a photo of a burnt out time clock that was running on 240V instead of 230V! This makes them overheat and give up. AND it would prolong the life of the inverter. £2500 in the sale that ends today funnily enough! If he doesn't take his commission he could do it for £2100! The bloke was there 3 hours! Amazingly my mate didn't go for it!

These sorts of things: & this: https://www.rawlplug.co.uk/products/bonded-anchors/bonded-anchors-accessories/installation-accessories/r-pls/

Any idiot could do that. It takes a really special sort of idiot to do what I'm proposing...

This from another forum and a bit of a guru for all things solar imho: I'll keep it simple - GARBAGE. Unless he has a very old inverter then the Euro-efficiency rating is 95% for an older Sunny Boy. (unless he has a very old model which isn't 'transformerless' ). Optimisers can only add 25% if there are serious shading issues. Even then Sunny Boys have a feature called 'Global Optitracking' which is a shade compensation algorithm. I did have a report on optimisers versus a standard inverter from an independent tester called Photon International (German trade magazine) They can impove output when shading is an issue, but the report used a Grade B inveter, SMAs are 'Triple A' rated, and even then the gain wasn't as high as 25%.. Now optimisers are around £30each, a solaraedge inverter around £800, so that's about £1040. Scaffold, say £600, so that's £1640 - you can pay me £1k to fit it if you like - think that will cover my diesel A new SB is around £750 if you want the latest spec which runs at 96-98% efficiency at all but the lowest light levels. There's also nothing to stop you doing this work yourself anyway. Somethig like a Chinese Solis inverter is about £600 fitted - doesn't have shade compensation, and won't last as long, but efficiency is on par with SMA (more or less). I'm guesiing tht he has about 2kW of panels,, which should output around 2000kWh per year, so assuing the high original tariff of around 50p, then even if he did get 25% more that's worth about £250 per year, so even at £2.5k, that's 10 year payback. I've attached a Photon Report - it wasn't the one I was looking for and it's annoying as it doesn't say what the base inverter was. NB where there is no shading or even if the panels are dirty there can be small performance increases as the system doesn't have to compensate for differences in the panels themselves. I do fit Solaredge where shading is notable, btu other than that the additional cost does not merit the outputs gained. solaredge-case-study-photon-power-optimizers-1473941071.pdf

Tonight he has someone coming round to talk about having an ASHP...