Onoff

Flex outlet where the socket is and isolation (switched fcu suitably fused) off to the side but at worktop level I favour. L shaped chase. It's in BS6172 not 7671. No I don't have it to hand. I may be able to access it tomorrow. There's something in there I'm sure about fittings not being exposed to products of combustion. That then refers to the Building Regs and the guides there come up with the 300mm rule. Now we argue I'm sure as to whether if a chip pan went up it could threaten that socket and stop you switching it off!

Steam and grease are the least of the worries. Have a hob fire and that extractor will be sucking it up with no immediate safe way of switching it off. I'll say no more.

It's a sh!t job that. Aside from the socket on its side. The guides to the building regs state any switches sockets should be 300mm away from the edge of a hob. So if you need to isolate you don't have to lean over the possibly on fire hob. In your case you'll have to stand on a chair.....if you can see for smoke! The switch for the extractor should be off to one side above the worktop within easy reach.

Job done.

So...onoff@vermininfestedjerrybuiltdraughtymoneypit.co.uk Maybe in Gothic script?

Go on, slip an "a" in there!

Cat/bag?

Ta. I will likely lose the hex portion, either some or all in the brass threaded section when I cut that down. I'll therefore need to make damn sure it's screwed in tight against that rubber washer. I wonder if this would benefit from some liquid PTFE or other such setting sealant before I screw the brass in. Might guard against it loosening?

He needs the whole answer as he's a very slow learner.....

I'm not going out to find big Allen keys at this time of night but there's deffo a hex in each bit: EDIT: It was little more than hand tight, does that change things?

Erm...I must have missed that. Check the Welsh Wizard's post for the sort of reply I was looking for!

Old news here if it's this one!

When you win the Lotto you can have it made in stainless steel!

What a wonderful place this is that people will genuinely be excited by this news!

Saved by the @Nickfromwales! Seriously, thanks a lot. So one of these: It was throwing me as I thought the elbow was supposed to rotate once on. Much clearer now. Point 8) though.....do you mean 22-26 turns on the last inch then another 22-26 on the remainder of the thread? Interesting on the elbow how you can get an Allen key in both the chrome hose bit and brass threaded bits. What's that all about, just for holding things?

It was mentioned in @PeterStarck's blog the other day:

Can't he flush this using mains water?

I'll be hoping my Geberit wall drain isn't the MK1 version when I come to test that!

Welcome. I see lots of talk of battery storage as a possibility. There's another thread just started here ref Sunamp by @AndyT of Sunamp. Let's face it a Sunamp is the place to store it! Reading @JSHarris's comments as to what's inside the unit I wonder if you could power the heating element off of PV only (and maybe even wind?) whilst keeping the control side on grid? Me just thinking out loud!

Hopefully it's just a crack like split in the roofing board or it's just sodden. Once the boarding has caved in you're on a hiding to nothing especially with tradtional felt. What you've got isn't like slaters felt (string reinforcing), it relies on board to support it. Traditional felt is quite fluid, more so if warm and will gradually sunk into the hole.

Are you going to save it off YouTube? (I can if need be). Good quality I thought.

The elbow, from hose connector to brass male passes through the chrome ring: There's an O ring that tbh gives a pretty good seal around the elbow. But that's it, nothing else comes with it. Beats me how its supposed to go through a tile and lock / seal! Still nothing from the suppluer. I'll phone on Monday.

Indeed. Lisa Rogers is welcome to inspect my plumbing any time...