Onoff

Ta. Just edited. Tbh I invariably ALWAYS get it spot on second time around! Not much good if you're the first crew of astronauts!

Well that'll teach me to try and show off! I decided to cut out for the shower hose back plate. a CAD drawing later and some ply pinned on for the ROUTER: Gave me a neat little triangular hollow some 32mm deep. With a bit of rearranging of the ply a slot was cut. First faux pas at the end (my fault entirely). Other than that it fits a treat. The 15mm copper will solder in, go along the slot, thru a 45deg turn then offset by 45mm into the valve. The slot with the rest of the ply will be covered by Aqua Panel anyway: BUT...I took the Hudson Reed chromed shower outlet into the garden...and it rolled off the ply and onto the concrete. The most visible bit is scuffed. It'll annoy the Hell out of me and her! Anyone know where I can get a new one on it's own? Tbh I feel a complete:

Good lads they were.

Weird, CT1 failed miserably when I tried to seal a tank containing hydraulic oil. Cleaned everything too with Multisolve. Then the other night when I tried to seal a crack in my dustbin containing 35l of 10% washing soda electrolyte. Mind I didn't clean that.

Cutting steel we used to have "make ups", a deliberate overlength supplied long and to be cut on site. It would be marked as "MUP" on the drawings. Working with some lads from Wigan and they kept referring to what sounded to us like "them funnyfuts". Same as a make up it turned out, short for "funny f***er to cut". Then we contracted a load of painters from 'upt North". Let loose in London they were complete with knotted hankies on their heads. Their eyes were on stalks at all the attractive girls in the City and they kept remarking to there being "plenty 'o grumble down 'ere". Turned out it was rhyming slang!

Disclean is what I have..... Lethal idea I'd say plus you would use loads of it . Brush it on. Maybe jet wash it off but a hose should do. Put it this way it'll take dried on cement off a shovel so imagine what it'd do to your skin, EYES etc. Gloves, apron, face shield etc a must. Access now on yours will be a bitch so I think I'd leave it for a good while and see what happens.

How about.... 1) Lay a sheet of PIR in there. 2) Cut some square holes in it similar to your blocks. 3) Fill square holes with concrete. No idea of any benefit just sounds like fun...

Imagine how many years that took...

If he charged a fiver an hour and took off 20% you'd be saving a quid. £4/hr for professional services ,bargain, go for it!

No, you must keep pushing designs. Keeps the brain ticking over! & Love it! Repainting that big white wall on the left might be fun access wise though. Where is it? The topography half reminds me of Austin Lodge Golf Course local to me which was sold for development of a private house(s).

I think with a single structure such as a concrete "trough" (or pool, pond) it might be a goer. Think of a building plantroom where you have concrete floors meeting concrete walls all tied in together. Both will give/flex the same amount. Take my construct though of a timber stud wall sitting atop a concrete slab and they'll behave differently. Tanking strip at the join is I think the only thing. "Paint" would crack imo.

Warm = Comfort? I've a single, straight length, 22mm plastic, temporary CH pipe laid just sub surface in the stairs room adjacent to "the" bathroom. I had to re-route the old single pipe system to sort the bathroom way back. It's literally laid in a channel and barely filled with a weak cement mix. It has carpet tiles on top. (One day the whole floor is coming up). Annoying friends and family who "come to see how the bathroom's doing" always seem to find the warm spot and joke that I've at least finished the UFH. I'm sure if we still had the cat it'd be stretched full length. No other source of heat in that room and tbh it does feel lovely to stand on! I never did find what the iron pipe crossing it by the door is...

Nothing to do then with 350mm 'ish of icynene & his air tightness results being off the chart?

How about a goat?

Not a bad shout. However it's a concealed space I think and therefore hot works issues possibly.

I think I'd try a test patch with some Thompsons Water Seal, says it can help: https://www.restexpress.co.uk/acatalog/Thompsons_Water_Seal_Improved_Formula_COSH.pdf Only slight worry is whether that efflorescence is "water" that needs to come out of the structure over time... (I rate the stuff but have only ever used it tbh on concrete fence posts of all things! They last far longer imo than if left as is. Got some I put in 30 years ago and they're like new). There was a thread on here a while back with someone suffering staining on their chimney, I think I put up another product for consideration? EDIT: This thread, Stormdry product link within:

What's CT1 like in conjunction with urine? Mate has a corroded steel stack from some urinals. Guess it's 4 - 6" dia. It's rotted from the inside out culminating in a split and a leak. If it was cleaned up and CT1 applied externally would it give them some breathing space whilst deciding what to do as it's quite a big job to fix. Cheers

Just throwing it out there, could a concrete floor wet room not be painted with a high performance "swimming pool paint"? http://technicalpaintservices.co.uk/catalogue/Paint-For-Swimming-Pools-Pool-Surrounds-Ponds-and-Paddling-Pools/

Gotcha! One of these: I won't be using any hopefully. The only pipework joints in that wall will be the 4 compression into the valve and one soldered joint at the backplate for the hose. Everything else will be bent copper.

What's a "street" elbow? Never heard that one. No solder fittings here, been told not to as it'll melt the PTFE. I think it's a case of wind the fittings in tight with tape to whatever angle then mount the valve. Thereafter bring the copper to the valve as required and do up the compression fittings with two spanners do as not to disturb the wound in fitting. Good tool access is the thing in case I need to tweak when pressure testing it.

Electrolysis fun / wife's car stopped play tonight but in trying to think ahead when it comes to tightening the compression fittings, I realised plumbers must have funny shaped, possibly smaller than average tools than normal! I presume you wind these fittings in with copious amounts of PTFE tape then use a smaller spanner to hold whilst you do up/compress the olive with the 24mm one. The big no no is not to turn the fitting once in! Would the smaller spanner be thinner than normal? A bit more trimming required to even be able to turn the 24mm spanner:

That's something I keep meaning to get back into, home brew. Started making it when I was about 12. Happy Summer days with a Corona lemonade bottle full of Boots Continental Lager etc. Wine too.....and cider, ginger beer, mead.....

How about a sliding gate track? I got my gate track from here and they do 5m lengths: http://www.barrier-components.co.uk/gate-hardware/sliding-gate-hardware/sliding-gate-rails.html I went for the raised one: You'll see on the link they do a low profile one.

The bloody dustbin leaked and CT1 wouldn't fix it! Made a new batch in a water butt. 45l water with 450ml soda crystals. The electrode "ring" could do with being set lower tbh: 24vdc psu this time at 5A and it's going berserk!

About £35: https://bricky.com/building-tools/bricky/ Seriously it's a doddle.