Onoff

I have to look for the odd diamond in the rough and be happy with that. That bit of decent plumbing that stands out like a sore thumb from all the original, some tidied up wiring or even a line of equispaced screws or I'd go nuts. Sobering the thought that if someone else bought the place they would knock down and rebuild without a second thought. It becomes more appealing to me as time goes on tbh. One bit of light is that I hear someone local has just gained permission for converting outbuilding(s) to an annexe so maybe the council are softening their stance. So all I need now is £££K!

Because he'd look silly and attract complaints in just his riggers! They're big into the whole Freikörperkultur thing apparently.

You lot building your passive esque places I'd say yes there comes a point when the house is done, the man cave built and it's just maintenance and gardening.

Dosing pot / vessel? Edit: Sure I've seen these at work with a couple of valves whereby you add the "stuff" then close one valve then open another to introduce to the system.

Silicon grease is great lightly smeared on any push together electrical fittings like "under bonnet" or "headlight bowl" crimp fittings too. Dip the end of your satellite co-ax in it too before you screw the F connectors on. Stops water tracking up the co-ax and a smear on the thread makes them easier to remove later from the LNB.

And with @Cpd we have a winner! Can't compete with that. Could you ski down that Northern view?

What I REALLY need is a 3D printer! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2156290

I just use Yellow 77. Screwfix do it.

I've a number of old 18V cordless tools, different makes, bought years ago. Generally Nicad batteries that won't hold much of a charge any longer. Grinder Jigsaw Circular saw Hedge trimmer Recip saw (might be 24V?) To be fair some just keep on going BUT the tools other than the hedge trimmer don't get used as the 3,5 or even 8hr charge times are a pain. For instance this circular saw. Bought for £24 c/w two batteries when Do It All / Focus closed down locally and became Wickes. Lightweight and actually pretty useful: The batteries, no doubt Chinese in origin at first glance all appear the same but there's subtle differences at best. If the + and - terminals are the same and the tower section with the orientation rib fits it might be the locking clips don't quite line up. In some cases the battery will fit but the terminals are opposed. So I got to thinking. Buy some of these Makita USB adapters from China for about £9ea. Then remove the insertable bit from the Nicad battery and graft to the Makita adapter possibly with the belt clip cut off. Happy days, use with abandon with Makita Li-ion batteries. https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dual-Usb-Power-Charger-Adapter-Converter-W-belt-Clip-For-Makita-Adp05-Lxt-Li-ion/123089332675?hash=item1ca8b229c3:g:GQIAAOSwoT1a2eS- I reckon it'll work but is there something about Li-ion tools whereby some intelligent circuitry in the tool stops the battery being completely discharged and thus protecting the battery?

Actually it's got to be the Super King size bed I made from a standard double bed base. When then I'm asleep I can forget about everything else for a bit.

Erm...read this earlier. Couldn't think of anything. Re-read just now and still nada. I'd change everything if I had the £.

Ta. Using an old 12V /1A BT Home Hub 3 psu. Right plug & seems to be doing the trick.

25mm MDPE to brass stopcock. Tbh first off it weeped but after advice on here I redid with a smear of Jet Blue Plus and sorted! This joint is at about 8bar as well. I've two different insert makes and both fit the S'fix MDPE.

Anyone got one of these? It's not obvious what charger it needs from the label. Hoping if someone has the same one that they can take a pic of the label and I might have something that'll match in the box of assorted wall watts. Cheers

If something's marked + and - then it's DC or cheap crap marked wrong! There is no positive and negative coming out of an AC transformer, it's alternating current. Pictures pls and close ups of anything written on the lights or connectors.

@Roundtuit, there is another way... You need to find the noise frequency first. Then build (buy?) an anti-noise emitter/amp at the same frequency & amplitude but inverted phase of the nuisance sound. Ideally adjustable to fine tune it. Active noise reduction basically. Like this but guessing lower frequency: http://cambridgesound.com/products/qt-emitters/ Maybe a cheap "try", some acoustic tiles in there? Like this: https://www.studiospares.com/Studio-Gear/Acoustic-Tiles/Acousticheck-30-Absorption-Foam-Tile-100mm_465500.htm? I bought a few second hand off eBay to hopefully quieten my concealed wc. Test flushing and it is very, very quiet but that might be as much to do with the way the "box" round it is close fitting and sealed at the joints. I think more noise will come from the Richards hurtling down the soil pipe in the wall that's only encased in gun foam! Off the wall but it's not a transformer breaking down somewhere but if it's a mains trannie I'd guess about 100Hz.

https://www.nhbs.com/magenta-bat-5-bat-detector? :)

Me and plumbing...nah! Started late tonight, playing Dad's taxi etc. Flexis will transfer to the two lengths of 15mm. A quick bend in copper should sort the valve to the ensuite shower cold and get rid of the white push fits. Probably have to do a saddle to sort the feed to the hot: Down lower where the feeds go off to the downstairs shower. I'll need to joint them: Poxy original waste :

How did I miss this...it's that big! Edinburgh Airport gets second runway...

The only thing with a bonfire is I always think how much water it could be heating! I've often thought a scaled up BioLite or Tegstove to produce leccy would be good.

There's something quite mesmerising about a bonfire. After first "upgrading" to an incinerator I pulled up a chair, cracked open a beer and sat intent on enjoying the evening on the premise that I needed to keep an eye on the fire. Well, if the constantly shifting smoke didn't get me the gnats did! Time I think to empty it of all it's lodgers that have no doubt taken up residence and have another go.

I'm not happy with the symmetry in that last picture Going to mirror the hot so it matches the cold. The whole board will probably have to drop later anyway as the upstairs en suite mixer is way too high up the wall in the enclosure. Also has a naff BLUE plastic tray about 6" high which will be replaced...along with the Artex ceiling, non P5, "ordinary" chipboard floor, 3/8" pb walls etc

What would a "proper" plumber do? Solder the joints in situ or off the backing board then clip back on? (It's marine ply btw). I don't want to burn the wood. Got my protective mat, random sheets of metal etc. Figure if I lose the pipe clips nearest the elbow/T/elbow I won't melt them! Obviously I've to add short lengths up for the supply and the long drops of the bottom valves.

Something similar to this maybe? https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/acrylic-anti-slip-treatment-m069? Nick will be along shortly!

Thanks. I see want you mean now. Tbh though, like toilet paper I'm on a roll! SWMBO happy enough to have one shower going at a time for now. There's not the cws or hot cylinder capacity anyway for two simultaneous showers.