Onoff

Wow! All a bit sobering that.

Maybe something like this on a board between the studs. Feed at the T from above for now then invert later with new olives and feed from below:

I had two BT Home Hub 3's. My own and a second from a mate who'd gone with Sky. Simple to set the second up as a wireless access point giving better coverage. On a Home Hub 4 now and it's better than the two 3's combined tbh.

I assume you realise you need to factor in that your cabling will be rated at 50% of its current carrying capacity if surrounded by insulation for more than 500 mm of it's length?

Traditional downlighters are quite tall. They generally have minmum clearances to adhere to. There are though some coverable ones. This isn't bad to get a feel for what's what. https://www.downlights.co.uk/faq-can-i-put-loft-insulation-over-downlights-.html Why not consider slim fit ones.

Is it ok to butt a copper T straight up against an elbow like this? Should keep things neat and allow easy feeding from the bottom later. EDIT: Won't 15mm be OK? As in for now we might have to have one shower on at a time but later on I can just feed each shower from point of source (TS or UVC) with no teeing off. Btw I'm intending using these for isolation: https://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-ball-valve-blue-15mm/11085

I like this D4 for general purpose stuff: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p61864?

Anyone wanna buy a scissor lift? (Actually it may live on. Mate wants an underground garage for his robo mower).

Like this?

Any chance then of hiving the plumbing bits off and dumping in the other thread?

Hmmm... Got to re think the route of the shower feed pipes: Just move them to the left I guess...or rethink the lift! I reckon get the lift going as a "bolt between joists" unit then see how things feel.

You don't use dog tooth washers between abutted joists?

General plumbing's good! As you know the original plumbing here is a point-to-point f***fest! So gradually it'll all come out. The shower pump is nom 10m from those flexis above. From the ensuite shower it jumps from 15 as you can see then goes across the top of the dormer (7m) in 22. It drops back down to the shower pump in the eaves the other end where it's 15 for say the last meter. The supply to the pump is; hot in 15 all the way to the pump from a Surrey flange atop the cylinder. Cold comes from the 25gal cws in 22 then 15 for the last metre. The pump was shagged when we bought the place so replaced with the only one that said it could cope with a 25gal fed...most said 50gal min. Where I'm working now, above the new bathroom I've already done it in 15mm in the walls and then just left them poking up into the loft. I was hoping to do 15 across the loft as I've got the pipe. Something like this:

Slightly different but when my brother had his drive & patio done I insisted he trench and lay swa to replace the "1mm pyro in a scaffold pole". Probably good for 15A plus when it went in and only to run freezer and a light but he wanted heaters and all sorts and to power his astronomy shed beyond. Plus it was down to earth anyway. The paving contractor really didn't want to do it but did. In clay, the paving sank along the trench line but the guy came back and redid it foc.

So I've to come across to where they disappear into the dark with two 15mm pipes, pumped hot & cold. Feed is from the bottom of the picture. Loosely laid in a couple of "cat damaged" lengths of copper: They need to come across, under the newly elevated soil pipe and then up the side of the dormer: (Hopefully the abortion of white waste pipe will "soon" be replaced with 50mm solvent waste!) The thing is that ALL the horrible pipes that come across the top of the dormer will eventually be gone if I go for a UVC / TS which will be on the ground floor. So for now I need to pick up from these flexis for pumped hot and cold, mindful that later the feed will be from below not above. Just trying to figure a neat isolation solution before I go and buy some Pegler red & blue valves!

That French one would suit me down to the ground for the odd bit of cable trenching and light landscaping I want to do.

You might have to wait a while for the next thrilling installment! Waiting for the Neurofen to kick in at the mo. Doing the soil pipe yesterday and I didn't bat an eyelid at the smells etc which is unusual for me. I got proper stuck in, gloves but no mask mind. A bucket of bleach to wash the existing components in and hosing it all off in the garden etc. So the reason I feel rough is cholera / typhoid I reckon. Nothing to do with the beer, wine & kebab last night...

Sounds like the ground water is simply pooling along the line of least compaction. If the digger is making tracks in it then isn't that compressing the material in there anyway? What did you do, cover the services in sand / pea shingle then back fill with the clay you dug out? I'd just keep driving over it and making up with the original clay.

It's 100cm wide and 600mm high!

I wanted wide rather than tall so went for a Phoenix Zonta in stainless steel, 100w x 600h.

Saw this: http://hho.fr/mini-pelle-phoenix-400-mini-digger-1-6t.html

Looks like Dave has gone with the seller I got mine from, "esavep". The bonus is his will be connected and running long before mine is so I'll get a heads up on any issues!

Only had a can of Fosters today as run out of anything decent I actually topped it off with 7-Up! Back on thread... The errant, diagonal soil pipe now goes through a right angle. This going left to right is a bit steep at about 2.3 degrees: Whereas the one off to the right is too shallow at about half a degree: Bring the joint up higher by packing underneath should fix both issues. But at least I can now sort/ tap into the existing pumped shower feeds

Drilled out the pivot points to 10.2mm but of course then the nylon spacers were a clearance fit. I've secured them in place with clear CT1. The ones at the end were easy but for the middle one I had to make up an extension for the mastic gun nozzle: In the loft today altering the soil run. Then I can see work easier on the rainfall head position and get an idea of how wide the lift needs to be. ...unless I get bored!

Hydraulic? Try screw driven: