Onoff

Why is the charge time a red herring?

1 hour charge is a pita and drill is only 40Nm which is a bit girly imo (no offence ladies, see @newhome's comments about handling big tools ). More grunt on both drill and impact here for a tenner less. The drill in my link is 198mm long vs 176mm. OK the drill isn't brushless I don't think but I'd go for more Nm on the drill. 22 minute charger too on this one would be the clincher for me: https://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/Makita-Ffx-Dlx2131J-5055945209310-18V-2X3.0Ah-Li-Ion-Lxt-Combi-And-Impact-Twin-Kit I've had quite a bit of stuff off of FFX.

Nah! Look at the damp getting under that render on the steps! http://www.rightmove.co.uk/property-for-sale/property-64652524.html

Trust me lads where she hails from is considered posh round these parts! Where I come from...bidonville!

I splashed out on new Fernox lead free solder...£18 for 500g!

I've used ManoMano before no probs: https://www.manomano.co.uk/pulsation-dampening-tank-for-central-heating/eres-expansion-vessel-3875510?model_id=3875512 You'd have to check ref postage

Not run out of MAPP, in fact I've a new bottle in the shed off the back of a job (I use MAPP with ZILT sticks to repair galvanised coatings). Only getting the propane to try less heat. What's weird is I soldered the "valve" assembly using the same method and materials; wire wool, IPA clean, Templars flux, Powerflow leaded solder on Yorkshires. Used MAPP gas at the max flame setting. They came out fine...I thought. No blackening etc. I wonder if this was because I did it OUTSIDE thus the flame wasn't so hot?

I'd have said Earthwool is pretty much inert against cables. If it's just for ease / guidance then go for it. It'll mess up your soundproofing efforts though won't it?

Won't know the result until I turn the water on!

Even if I've overheated the Hell out of them...more than once? I've just ordered £30 worth of propane & lead free solder for the last couple

What's Frys? You say to flux with it but isn't the Telux the Flux? Slider? Typo for solder?

We have our tools and they have theirs!

Sorry to have taken up your evening!

Thanks all. Strip out and start again then. What do I wipe the solder off the pipe with? Wet rag, dry rag?

If wanting to moved any piece of venered chipboard furniture which you didn't bother to glue in the first place, always try and move it full up with clothes etc. We have wardrobes like the leaning tower of Pisa thanks to her doing this for the last 30 years. One advantage of the menopause seems they don't want to move rooms around so much. I came home one day to find the lounge and dining room had swapped places and I needed to fit a new tv point.

You're going to have to sketch it pls...

@newhome, according to SWMBO there are only two types of screwdriver bits: "Flatty" ones used for opening paint tins and scraping stuff off. Then you get "pointy" ones. These you hit with a hammer to make holes in things like flower pot bases or walls to fit Rawlpugs!

Good shout. Do you mean turn upward the far 90 or further bend the start of the passover and cut there?

Frankly a lot of blokes make a right f*** up using a blow lamp...

Didn't think I could reduce the flame size? But the brass knob seems to do it. Wire wooled, no solvent. A smear of Templars around the joint line. Flame down to the minimum: Not so black as before, honest: Some snots hanging down: Better? If they are going to leak will they do so straight away or fail over time?

F*** IT! ?

I just always have. Never had these issues though. I've done it how I always have on the tap connector and that looks alright doesn't it? At this rate I'll be ripping it all out and doing Cuprofit push fit. No confidence in any of it except for the tap connector!

OK, why are the fittings going black?

Tried again, cleaned the joint wire wool then spirit. Got some Templars around it. MAPP gas from the side about 30 deg off horizontal: And cleaned up, still looks crap: Dads flux and solder on the tap connector:

They're all Yorkshire...