Onoff

You really never have used this stuff before have you? At least it'll be well filled! Norm is to 50% fill with the regular expanding foam. That amount will take a while to set. Says on the can only fill 50-70% of the void you're filling. It'll be dry tomorrow. Did you try and fill the WHOLE cavity with it or just the top few inches like I showed with the eps? Use the foam gun cleaner as an aerosol to clean off the wet foam from anything you don't want it on. You did get the gun cleaner I said was a must?

If you're very careful you can scrape uPVC frames with a new Stanley blade to ease scratches / nicks out. (S'fix do a No Nonsense uPVC cream cleaner which is good). Foam the cavity. Let it go off. Cut it level. I use a cheapo, bendy old bread knife but a hacksaw blade will do. If the blade is coming out sticky as you're cutting then it;s NOT gone off. If you cut foam too early you get left with hollows. Tbh you could do your pb up to the underside of your new / extended sill and bed the sill down on some dot n dab low expansion foam making sure you do along the back, sides and front with a thin line too to seal the edges. Another option is chuck some mortar in there and level off then tile above the worktop and tile the sill too.

EX MiL I should have mentioned, don't think she was on his side when the marriage went t!ts up!

Might have to be whatever generic (Sticks Like, No More etc) one I have kicking around here. Must put a screen up so I don't shower the bath with sparks!

Thinking of using one of the Larsen products. Gets good reviews on a couple of tiling forums I've looked at. Stockists in Lewes and Rochester neither of which are a million miles away. http://www.larsenbuildingproducts.com/products/range/7/category/36/

Any recommendations on tile adhesive? Really would prefer it standard set rather than rapid!

Bugger maybe? I'd planned to use this tile adhesive: Cheap and long working time so ideal for me, but... Says in the small print it's OK for bathrooms but not specifically wet rooms. Main worry is that it says it's no good for heated floors: Any suggestions? Cheers

Finally got the old incoming mains re-routed to feed the Geberit cistern! Not sure still how I'm going to finish off the back of this cupboard! Isolation via a decent Pegler valve: And good access from the back of the cupboard: I need to hack off the old incoming iron pipe below the concrete and infill that bit...angle grinder straight through? Do I need to "cap" the iron once cut? It goes nowhere, just out under the footings, about 700mm down where it's happily rotting away. Ta.

I've some plans for a roll top desk. Basically you stick thin wooden slats to leathercloth.

Take a look and see if there's any evidence of the frame being fixed with 'em. This is one of my doors, got off a mate as a freebie and repurposed! Some spare frame fixings shown too: As I said earlier though, with fixed windows they tend to fix the frame first then put the glazing in so you don't see the fixing. With openers you should see the fixing like above. Sometimes one visible at the top too though this can be a pig to drill because of the lintel. Take the trim off of one side to start with. I almost can g'tee you'll see a scary gap. You can then see if there's any frame fixings in there. Fill the gap with low expansion foam. Keep any windows shut whilst it sets is another tip. That way it fills up the unwanted gap at the side rather than expanding and squeezing the opened window opening! You can protect the uPVC with some masking tape etc against foam getting on the frame. In your case I wouldn't worry about a dpm like I did.

I lad I knew walked into his MIL's kitchen to find her standing there holding a broom. "What's up Maureen, can't start it?" said he.

Upvc windows...who knows how they're fixed! On a retro fit ideally the frames are first put in using frame fixings. Then the frame is glazed. It's been know for the windows to be held in place and JUST foamed! As yours was an extension they might have used little clips that attach to the frame and get incorporated into the mortar joints as the wall was built. Afraid you won't know for sure until the trim comes off. If you can't score some eps just use gun foam. Don't forget a can of gun cleaner, it's essential imo when changing cans over on the gun! It doesn't last long when using so get two if you can stretch to it. Pb is fixed to timber battens using special black screws often referred to as "dry wall" screws. Phosphate coated I think. Shown here 35, 45 & 55mm long. I bought them in bulk, cheap when Lidl were doing them last. I used the longer ones to fix thru the 27mm insulated pb. I also bought an auto feed plasterboard screw gun again from Lidl that takes these: Thats another story. Presume you'll be using a cordless and standard pb screws. 25mm drywall screws are the shortest usually but I'm thinking you might want to go 32mm as your battens might not be dead straight. https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-black-phosphate-bugle-head-twin-thread-uncollated-drywall-screws-3-5-x-32mm-1000-pack/16374#product_additional_details_container

Magic potions likely seeing that the missus is a witch...

I nogged mine as in some cases I've 100mm ish of packing behind the studwork where I've done pockets in the wall etc.

Pressure testing the towel radiator loop with my silly mains pressure! Holding at 8bar.

IoW for a week. Just back. Nice ales & pub grub etc. About to pressure test the towel radiator loop then tanking time!

If you have a foam gun you need "gun grade" foam. Look thru the Screwfix book and there'll often be a price for handheld or gun grade. Cans to screw on the guns have a 4 prong plastic bit on top. My fingers on two of the plastic bits: The top of the gun grade cans looks the same as on these cans of gun cleaner: One on the left is from T'station others are Screwfix No Nonsense brand. They come with the little red nozzle. You can either use as a conventional aerosol or screw onto the foam gun to clean it out. This is Screwfix own brand gun grade foam. It's cheap. It expands...a lot...as I guess it's meant to! This is Soudal Low Expansion foam, better than the Screwfix one for sticking things on etc as well as not expanding so much: https://www.screwfix.com/p/soudal-soudafoam-expanding-foam-gun-grade-750ml/5026d Ref the blue dpm, over my battening I did the walls and ceiling with a continuous membrane or vapour control layer as a nod to draught proofing.

Being a big lad I have to be careful not to break stuff and have a tendency to get unfamiliar stuff right second time around! The torque wrench is my friend at work and on the car, tbh If I can see a torque setting I'm happy!

If you have an idea of what spring you want then these people are great and do small orders. Been using them for years at work and for home: https://www.springmasters.com/

@zoothorn, the floor in this room you're doing... I assume this is the badly done, "modern" extension that you're battening out, so it has a damp course in the walls and damp proof membrane under the floor? Get the gaps round that window sorted and it should help a great deal. It amazed me how I could feel the draught through the tiniest of holes when I was blocking things up. In fact as the gaps to fill got smaller it seemed to concentrate the cold air blowing through!

Q from me..... I debated, but didn't, sticking ordinary 25mm foil faced pir to my reveals then ordinary pb onto that. It would have been too thick aside from whether it would have worked. Hence I went for the 27 mm insulated pb. Would it have worked?

Try and cut it pretty accurately I would. At 25mm thick you could virtually cut with a craft knife with the blade out a bit and GLOVES! Sawing PIR makes horrible dust. Some advocate cutting 5mm short and filling the edge with foam. If I'm a "bit" out I might run a thin bead of foam up one batten then push the pir against that and in between the other batten. Foam expands to fill the gap. Oh, and photograph against a tape / mark the wall either side etc where any horizontal battens are. Any wall cupboards going on this wall?

Given the times people on here have told me the same thing until it's sunk in I'm quite happy to keep repeating myself! :) Careful with the drugs and tools / measuring. I've made some classic clangers just on ale! Foam gun "etiquette" is very important or you'll find yourself buying a new gun! READ THE INSTRUCTIONS that come with it. Buy a can or two of No Nonsense Foam Cleaner whilst you're there as well. Make sure you buy GUN foam too, I've accidentally bought the hand held stuff before when in a rush. Soudal Low Expansion is expensive but v.good. The 2.5" gap. Don't fill all at once. Ideally a strip of eps in there first like I did to bulk the gap out. Eps from packaging would be fine tbh. If relying on foam then you will need to do a line left to right say 1/2" thick and wait for it to set.Then another thin line until you fill the gap. Top tip to make foam stick better to a substrate or dried foam - use a little spray bottle filled with clean water to dampen the substrate. I use an old Detox kitchen spray bottle.

3mm packs, good man, fingers crossed. 460mm will be alright!

At 600mm the pb wont be supported enough and will be too flexible.