Onoff

I used to muck around with building all sorts of receivers and transmitters. Back when it was all Denco coils and Jackson variable capacitors. I've built all sorts of aerials too from Yagis to corner and trough reflectors. Even had a bit of correspondence with Joseph J Carr. Do you need new ropes for the winch? What size as I've just got a load of 6mm galvanised.

We've done something similar a few years ago to that sketch when fitting roof top safety lines albeit down to a concrete roof. Will try and get a drawing out of our archive.

Fair enough. Our kids just stuck magnetic shapes and letters on the wall. (We did another section in blackboard paint).

With hindsight I might have ordered the bath without the tap holes drilled in and had a wall mounted bath filler something like this: I don't think I could live with blanking off the existing tap holes either and going wall mounted. Half toyed with having a wall mounted tap and fitting a couple of waterproof lights in the tap holes. Might look a bit naff though? Where the drill is and the UFH sensor pipe will be a boxed in "riser". You can just see the pump motor behind: Did consider rotating the bath 180deg and having the taps on the outside but we don't want that. I'd also have to cut a slot in the slab for the pump motor bracket and then I'd hit the UFH pipes. Access as it is is v.tight to get to the pump / motor so if there's any issue the bath'll have to come out anyway. Then I'll be glad of the flexibles. Just to complicate things (), on the outside edges of the bath I'm considering raking the timber frame back so the tiled sides are at an angle. Back to the piping issue. This is looking along from where the pipes come down from the wall: It's all a bit tight and there is no way I'll be able to get to these connections once the bath is in:

What's wrong with normal plaster and magnetic paint? We got some years ago for the kids playroom.

Feeling the man love for this!

Not saying do it but could you glue tight fitting, wooden plugs in with a high strength adhesive to regain any beam strength lost? Appreciate a hell of a lot of work. Or steel plates with a slot where the holes are?

I found this on the subject out of interest: The diagram in my old IEE Guide To The Building Regulations suggests that the holes in the zone between 0.25 & 0.4 can be a CONTINUOUS SLOT without detriment. BUT.....in the new (yellow) OSG it shows separate holes (in the 0.25 - 0.4 zone). Will have to dig out some old OSGs as I seem to recall the same "old" diagram in a previous edition showing a slot .....

What's the shelf life on that CT1? I bought some a while back when you said and.....well, you know me.....

Everything gets cleaned and hoovered even if it's being covered up!

Getting my 15mm drops in (at last ); hot, cold & mains for the sink cold. Had to puncture the VCL atop the plasterboard, guess just tape where it comes thru in the loft. Will put an offset in the pipes to bring them further forward in the dwarf wall. That way I'll get my 50mm PIR in there without cutting to fit as I'll have to do in the section above the wall: At the mo the VCL's just drawing pinned to the ceiling to keep it up out of the way.

Pretty much what I'm aiming for on both counts! Welcome btw!

Just had an email back from Mecserflex who do those hoses in my link and they DON'T do the 19mm bore anymore just 12 and 10mm.

Kent, God's county!

It's a mixer tap, (single hole) on the basin, think the two bits of black tape confuse things: The basin & bath taps are only Bristan (bought before I knew any better ). You know me, never one to over complicate something..... So will this 15mm copper I've bought be OK (for EVERYTHING)? Cheers

I was trying to avoid joints under the bath, keeping it to JUST at the tap itself. Red tile here will be the removable one: Sink will be to the left of the tile: Likely changing sink style for a half height pedestal. So.....all the joints will be behind that one tile. At least that WAS the plan..... Thinking about this you mentioned before to do the runs in 15mm I think?

Sure I've read somewhere that the S'fix ones narrow down to an 8mm bore. The ones in my link are available seemingly in a 19mm bore. And they're a "commercial" grade. Something like this (with a couple of handy garden hose offcuts). Long flexibles, probably one @ 1500mm & the other 1200mm will come off the bath taps, go through holes drilled in the dwarf stud wall and join copper coming down the wall where there's currently no PIR. All joists accessible via removable tile.

Still on the lookout for decent quality, extra long flexible tap connectors to go from what will be routinely inaccessible bath tap connections to behind a removable tile where the basin & bath isolators will be I FINALLY found this company: http://www.mecserflex.co.uk/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=6655&idcategory=1424

Feel free to dump it in any of the number of pull ins along the single track lane to my house. Every other F****** does! For variety you might try leaving large loads of conifers from garden clearance jobs, stacks of old tyres, asbestos garage roofs or the odd mountain of cable sheathing (copper removed). Favourite spot seems to be against the "NO FLY TIPPING" sign.

My South African mate reckons tractors with glazed / meshed cabs are a must out there if grass has been left to grow or fallow land needs ploughing in. His brother has a farm out there. Seemingly the cutting heads etc can throw up poisonous SNAKES and/or bits of them still capable of biting. And apparently you should never run a snake over whilst on a motorbike for similar reasons.....

Hello & good evening! I find having NO schedule works. Also try and flit between a number of jobs at once and slip in "I'm sure if I'd been tested as a kid I'd have been diagnosed with ADHD!". You can just about get away with it with the missus if the end product is perfect and beyond reproach. I can't though use "The forum's down!" as an excuse to her any more. Tiles.....one day! It's no surprise I still need to complete the walls.

In the back garden we have a circle (more of an oval) of cowslips that just gets mown around and the grass left to grow and do it's thing. Saved a big slow worm the other day from the wife driving the ride on. She was mowing in ever decreasing circles on the front lawn and when she'd passed it made a "run" for it.

On windows the "proper" way using a pole is generally known as "reach n wash" in the trade and utilises de-ionised water either from a tank in the back of the van or via a wheeled trolley that looks like an oxyacetylene trolley and holds damn great cartridges. In the old days cleaners would go to back street filling stations to get their de-ionised water. The dirt on the window is wetted then agitated / loosened with a brush or dolly on the end of the pole which is water fed and controllable. The water is then used (no soap) to wash the debris off and downward. Leaves a fairly streak free finish. Kit's pretty expensive. If done regularly reach and wash is OK but if engrained then a proper dolly / squeegee together with nylon Scotch type pad is used. If you have heavy staining the cerium oxide powder or CO2 can be used. Window cleaners who miss the corners are referred to as "Sinbad" (think portholes). Listen to a couple of windows talking and you might hear one say "I did a Dionne!". Translated this means he knocked some or all of a particular job as in Dionne Warwick's Walk On By. EDIT: Meant to add that the lads I know who clean solar installs on commercial buildings use the de-ionised water fed pole generally.

Driving along the other day past a house VERY steep and high grass bank that meets the road and I was momentarily shocked to see a Flymo coming down then going back up the slope. At the top of the slope leaning back and digging his heels in was a bloke in shorts who could barely keep a footing on the bank. He'd tied a rope to the Flymo..... Must be about due for another cut. Next time I'll stop and take a pic. Just imagining having dash cam footage as the mower enters the picture from left and skids across the bonnet.....

Folkstone? http://www.insulation4less.co.uk/eps-70-100mm.html