Onoff

It looks superb. Missus is quite taken with it. We both love the look of "gravel" but not the mess. (Our drive is as when we purchased the place. Compacted soil and ash full of nails where the previous owner burnt pallet wood). I'd be very interested in the DIY systems. What's it's resistance to oil like?

Seems that was the problem! I know who to come to for plumbing tips from now on! I made sure the jets were fully covered and ran it again. The jets were much "calmer" and quieter when fully submerged. Just to check the air valve I ran it with it off and stuck my fingers over the ends of the two white pipes which varied the intensity of the jets. Put the valve back on with a tad more silicon grease and that works fine. So all good! Just waiting for No.1 son to surface and I'll get the draw strings in the ducting for the LED plinth lights. For now I've just primed the rest of the floor, around the basin and half the bath surround and long pocket. Once the draw wires are in I'll refit the surround, mask the bath up and tape & tank that. Next lot of tanking later. ...suppose I'd better save this bath full of cold water then...

There's a mile of 15mm copper feeding it. Actually it's about 18m from the stopcock to the tank.

Will they even have them in 2028?

Thanks. I'll have to video mine to show the lack of difference turning the knob makes. As I understand it turning that knob just controls the amount of air vs water in the jet stream. Not sure how it's meant to work...would have expected to be able to adjust from "gentle massage" to "grand rapids". At the mo it's the latter or nothing!

Yep, have the instructions still: OK, traditional HW/CH system... I only have a 25gal cold water storage tank which is tiny tbh. It sits in the very apex of the roof in effect sat on top of the dormer. As well as supplying cold to the bath, that volume of water feeds the bottom of the hot water cylinder (that itself sits on top of the ground floor ceiling so below the cws tank). It's that "head" of water that forces the hot out of the top of the cylinder. So the cold in the cws runs out then there's nothing to force the hot out of the cylinder. It's complicated as the cold runs from the cws tank, horizontally across the top of dormer and drops down to the ground floor bath the other end of the house. The hot runs from the top of the cylinder UP the side of the dormer first THEN horizontally across the top of dormer and drops down to the ground floor bath the other end of the house. This is where Nick jumps in and suggests a uvc/ts for the umpteenth time!

Makes no difference whatsoever! Appears in good nick too. One pipe in one pipe out, spiral valve with an o-ring that appears in good nick and well greased (silicon grease?). I might pop into Homebase and have a word, I mean I only bought it in 2010 and haven't used it!

Well we have lights and bubbles! All off a plug top at the mo but I want to check for leaks before closing the bath in. Hot and cold ran out before I could fill above the jet line...it's just about on it. Light on/off works fine but jets are either full whack or off...what I think is the jet control does nothing... Found one snapped wire on a pcb connector, no surprise there seeing how long it's been sat! Going to sit down with a beer now and read the instructions!

Not acheived much today...too flamin' hot! Each 12V deck around the bath has its own 25mm duct so replacing should be a doddle. All connections are outside the bathroom in an accessible cupboard/ riser:

I could have done with this: https://www.aldi.co.uk/telescopic-led-drywall-sander/p/095880199818200

Pillocks! I had two bottles of Cobra after some barbecue chicken!

I love it down here, it's been a big problem so the council identified the problem lay-bys, field entrances etc and had a contractor diligently tidy the areas up, dig a hole and concrete in warnings on high metal posts. They now fly tip against the No Fly Tipping signs. Given all that extra space around them it'd be rude not to! In one instance it was so high you could have climbed the pile and nicked the sign. I think that may have happened along with the posts thinking about it. The obligatory pile of tyres is common. One of the oddest was a mountain of 3' lengths of cable insulation about 4" diameter. Took an age for that to go.

At our tip if you're dumping any form of copper containing cable they have a "special" area away from the designated ones for it. Same place all the too good to throw away kids bikes and garden equipment seems to end up... Amazing how if you ask to take anything that you see; "Not allowed mate, rules you see, Health & Safety.....". I always feel the place is run by an extended family who's primary dwelling is on wheels...

I should add that once the floor tiles are down and grouted I'll be covering them in some surface protection sheets, duct taped at the joins whilst I do the walls etc. I have a good few Correx boards anyway, site freebies, that I periodically scrub and hose down of whatever plaster, paint, spilt concrete but they're getting a bit tatty. Saved a good few moans by protecting the hallway carpet en route to the bathroom. (In all honesty they're in better nick than the carpet ). If too tatty I'll get 2 or 3 of these: https://www.wickes.co.uk/Proplex-Surface-Protection-Sheet---1200mm-x-2400mm/p/118670

Considered it as I have a Wickes close by. Discounted it after reading here: https://www.tilersforums.co.uk/threads/norcross.79521/ The Laticrete I've got...apparently the biggest brand there is. Soon find out! Think I paid £9 / 20kg.

Floor tiles go down first imo. Wall tiles come down onto them. You then get a horizontal grout line at the base of the wall tiles rather than a face up grout line if you do floor last. Water less likely to penetrate imo especially in the wet room scenario. @Nickfromwales favours this method I believe and he hasn't failed me yet!

Is it feasible to stick a concrete poker in these mbc slabs upon pouring? I've read a few horror stories of them not coming out level.

As an aside I see in today's Times that farmers are being granted flexible extraction licences to enable them to take more water from rivers & streams etc. The EA is doing this over fears about food production.

You know how I rush these things...

As per my earlier post in the other thread the extra tanking kit turned up early! Floor tiles down at the weekend hopefully.

I've only visited one self built passive esque place. (TF, icynene filled I believe). Not a big name TF company either I don't think? The attention to detail imo was second to none. That's down to the tenacity and vision of the self builder in question imo. They're not in it for a quick buck for a start. Maybe it's all about leaving a legacy, self satisfaction, peace of mind etc. Equally it's about the control you excercise over trades that you do use. It exceeds ph standards I believe.

Thought there was still a tiger in the fridge...

Manoeuvring boards...can't say much really, many of us here have and single handed too. Mine were in fact 2700 x 1200 12.5mm thick. My floor to ceiling height was 2470 and I couldn't be arsed putting in a 70mm strip. (With hindsight I'd have put the ceiling joists in lower). I transported them on my estate roof rack atop a sheet of ply. TP put them on with the forklift. Got them all off on my tod and transported again on my own with the carrier thing with them horizontal. It's a bit of a trick turning them upright for sure and you risk them snapping in the middle. Maybe YouTube "how".

Not tonight, just dealing with a couple of large cobras after my chicken in the garden...

Cheap foam gun: https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professional-PU-Expanding-Foam-Gun-Grade-Applicator-Chrome-Plated-All-Metal-Body/323051877832? Can't help on cheap low expansion foam. If you want to try with the normal stuff then fill whatever gap with half or less than the gap is big. Gun cleaner is about a fiver a can wherever. So just over £20 for a cheap gun + cleaner + a can of the Soudal Low Expansion Foam. Better? Best I can do!