Onoff

Not where I live.....well at least my neighbour didn't give a f**k when he got an industrial sized one off his mate and did it.

No, plenty of other weirdos just like you out there! Worry keeps the mind ticking over.

If it ends up you having to shift it then maybe hire a crusher and reuse as Type 1 or whatever you choose to grade it at under the drive etc.

Not at all. It's just that we too have our own lives to live. Although it might have been best not to have started this (and I'm beginning to wish you hadn't) you need to finish this. Charge that camera, take the pictures and try and not keep questioning good advice...is my advice. Seriously have you thought about moving?

Just spoken to the water jet cutters. They'll take 22 of the mosaics off of me and take 125mm off both ends of each one to 0.5mm accuracy for £60. That'll give me 44 tiles to do the strips up each side of the wet room corner. Getting another price from the other local place.

So you take decent photos to show what you've got and you post up on here for help without all the how much it's depressing you crap. You need to see a doctor for that not us! The odd wobble people will handle and sympathise but when it's constant they'll just switch off and think you're a nutter! I've done most things I now ask about but years ago and in all honesty not too well. If you ask on here you are drawing on a wealth of experience given freely. Do it once, do it right or as near as dammit. When half a dozen people are telling you the same thing the issue is you not them. All the dressing and moaning risks takes this seriously off topic. You could have the old sink balancing on "a workmate" for what it's worth or some lash up out of scrap batten and still use it without the kitchen units having to be in place. To shift the sink you just isolate, detach with the Hep2O tool, unscrew the waste and move out of the way. YES you will lose a bit of water each time.

Top tip, fill the kettle, water filter up etc BEFORE you disconnect the plumbing! You could......temporarily extend your plumbing and waste pipes and put the sink in "the middle " of the room and work round it. No incentive to get it done though then!

Dog rough sketch but this is mine. Be aware of the width between angles and mod if req'd to suit the pallet main members: Don't forget to put the st/st nylocs on the bolts with a bit of copper slip etc. Stops them binding!

Get under the sink with a camera and you'll get helpful suggestions for sure.

Trouble is the people on here are NOT going to sit idly by and NOT comment if they see something so in your face wrong! Anyway, the solution goes something like this: As you can see all the pvc sheathed cable is touching is the pvc pipe - no rough edges or chemical reactions! As to what IP rated socket to fit then it's a tad dependant on what circuit protection you have on that ring main circuit which I assume that existing 2G socket is on? If it's RCD protected then something like this, there is a slightly cheaper LAP branded one: https://www.screwfix.com/p/bg-13a-1g-switch-socket/35096#product_additional_details_container A single socket linked but you could fit a double one if you wanted. If not then you really need RCD protection so it'll be something like this: https://www.screwfix.com/p/bg-13a-2g-rcd-switched-socket/91095 Your electrician will I'm sure be able to advise you! If you take electricity outside you're into the realms of Part P.

Any waste pipe penetrations, for instance the sink, can be a route in for mice, wasps etc as well as a draughts of course. If the hole thru the wall is a bit ragged and oversize then pack round the pipe with cheap stainless steel kitchen scourer and expanding foam over. Then cut flush. If the mice do chew through the skin of foam the metal will stop them. If a pi$$y wee gap round the pipe then just foam it - from both sides ideally (but not too much), cut flush and paint. https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-stainless-steel-scourers-6pk/p/0178483

No reason at all why you can't use the metal ones if you're happy making a compression joint that won't leak or soldering. Peter suggested Hep2O as it's super quick and the best brand of push fit in the eyes of many on here (me included). Plus you don't need any really special tools. Think they reckon 50 years life expectancy. I've stuff been in here since 98 with not a sign of a leak anywhere. What ones did you get btw?

An empty promise as usual no doubt!

YOU are risking people just walking away from this thread mate. This advice thing is a bit of a two way thing. If you ask for advice then choose to ignore what half a dozen people agree is f***ing dangerous they, including me will just walk away. And don't say "I can't". you've proved YOU CAN if you're prepared to listen.

I'm reading various: expanding foam - the one for wall boarding, contact adhesive , carpet fitters glue, no more nails type stuff..... ???

SWMBO thinks I'm a clever boy ref the pallet buster!

Hep2O... Shown here being fitted/ removed onto plastic pipe but it fits just as well on clean 15mm copper pipe. Why I really posted the video was to show how easy it is to remove with the little plastic tool. You can get these or even smaller jobbies at S'fix: https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-push-fit-hepkey-plus-set/5222j These Hep2O shut of valves are quick and easy to fit: https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-hx37-15ws-shut-off-valve-hot-cold-15mm/8473f You WILL lose some water when you cut the pipes. Resign yourself to that fact. Old bath towel against the wall / on the floor and an empty milk carton to slip over the end of the pipe whilst you catch your breath! Washing up bowl on standby to empty into if there's that much! The cold - presuming mains - you'll need to turn the mains off. The hot - hopefully a valve back up the line somewhere? You can isolate the cold feed to the bottom of the hot water cylinder and or put bungs in the cws feed to the cylinder etc. If you're burying all the existing pipes in the new Celotex make damn sure you haven't got any leaks in it! It will be a bitch to sort later.

Still there... Tbh I'm bottling starting it. Worried about everything; it being level, the joints looking uniform, cutting for the mixer etc. A biggie is cutting these big mosaics without the cut edge looking crap. I'm going to get SWMBO to do the cuts...no comeback then!

Do you get one type of pallet generally? If so post a fag packet sketch or marker pen on the actual pallet the relevant sizes and I'll figure a breaker. Just thinking out loud here but to save weight the "roller bar" could be tube instead of solid bar and the handle welded direct to this instead of being bolted to a welded boss...

As I said...it works:

You'll look back and think "I did that!" and have the confidence to think "I could do that!" https://www.barnsley.ac.uk/course/introduction-plastering-part-time/

I could spend 10 weeks just thinking about something!

Nothing that's not already been done, all over the net tbh! Anyway IT WORKS! Actually pretty effortless tbh. I might replace the steel tube handle with a bit of thick wall ali tube I scored (30 years ago) as I imagine it could get a lump to wield after a while. I need to trim the M12 bolts that the angles pivot on, this so it can slip over "two inch" main members on pallets. At the mo the distance between angles is nom 54mm. If I reversed the angles so they pointed outward it'd go over a 90mm main member. Happy enough anyway, cost nowt but some leccy, discs and rods.

A coat of etch primer: Then wait to dry and mull over what top coat I've got kicking around...