Onoff

Some advocate, when fitting pir between joists or battens to in fact cut it well shy one side, like 5mm. Then foam the Hell out of the gap. I just try and cut as accurate as I can.

How tall are you? You could shorten all your doors and insulate the floor!

Sound! A triangular "wedge" of st/st sheet dropped into a slot hacksawed at an angle in the ply I think.

I did wonder about adapting my cavity master...

Where's the finesse man?

Tax my Aga! You can jolly well bugger orf! What is an Aga?

That giant bottle of Kingfisher has kicked in! Thinking a 20o chamfer, 10mm long? The rectangle's the ply disc, the two red lines the 110mm mm soil pipe... Can't help thinking a Stanley blade(s) is maybe the WRONG thing to use...

Got to be a good feeling getting rid of all that crap...literally! I feel your pain, our house was re-roofed leaving the old flat roofs in place. Once they came up it was a world of rat/mouse/squirrel/bird skeletons and nests inc wasps. Still got an original flat roof to deal with above the lounge. Why not then build up the sill layer in expanding foam, cut to 25mm thick and normal pb atop that? Better than nothing. In fact a lot better than nothing. Commercial wet foam systems like "Icynene" work exactly this way. Stick the pb to the foam with low exp. foam and screw to the front batten too. Now we've said before and will again. DRAUGHTS are the kiddie that make you feel cold. Make damn sure you fill up gaps between "pir" (what we will call Celotex from now on) and the battens even if only a couple of mm.

Just the hard bit to figure then!

Paint brush & slop it, 5:1 water (5 of water, 1 of PVA), in.

Resist, I couldn't.... A 114mm Starrett: Gives me a 100mm marine ply disc (18mm): An old soil coupler with one perished seal: Seals removed: Disc fits nice: Find something to make a shaft with: 11/16" flat bit to recess the ply, nyloc pressed in: Bolt head zinged off: Beer o'clock! Phase 2 to secure the disc in place with some peripheral screws and mount the blades!

Just got one of these for my boy on Preloved for £200: https://www.dell.com/en-uk/work/shop/accessories/apd/210-agul

Cheers. The obvious solution then! Knowing my luck I'll squeeze the clamps too hard!

I wonder if you could incorporate a couple of Stanley blades into a precise "chamferer"...

This type off tile drill WITHOUT a pilot drill: Bought to drill the tile that fits over the shower mixer. I assume I need to make up a timber template and gently clamp it to the tile? This to stop it wandering. Cheers.

With Skype for instance you can buy a "Skype Number". Normal landline / mobile users can ring that. If your current landline supplier supports call forwarding then you can forward calls to the Skype Number.

Remember the wet room corner has only just been done this year, with my home brew, SBR laden mix!

It'd come out with a good twist if need be. Wrap a bit of stiff plastic (dpm, etc) round the pipe and tape before filling round it - that'd give enough "slip" if worried. For later access to these pipes and that they look a bit green. I would replace them personally, in copper but with Hep2O fittings (for ease/speed) and bring down the face of the new pb and along. Can't see the op doing that though. I'd be worried about leaving soldered joints "in" the new wall.

A tip for mixing up mortar and filling small holes like this: Make up a milk container of 5:1 water/PVA. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. Soak the gap you're filling and use instead of water to make up your mortar mix. Sticks like the proverbial to a blanket.

There's the answer chaps, wait three years before tiling!

I REALLY struggle with your abbreviated style sometimes... We (at least I) am going to forget all about the earth cables. Just leave them on the pipes. The hole: Dig out what looks like a bit of expanding foam on the left hand edge of the hole. Vac round the hole to clear the loose debris and dust. Channel your inner Michelangelo and shape with a bolster and hammer a piece of brick that fits that hole with no more than 10mm gaps all around it. Mix some mortar and in the mix chuck some finely smashed up glass. Work it into the hole around the pipe / the gaps around the shaped block. This is an old soil pipe hole I had to contend with: I core cut a bit of lightweight block: To hold in place: I tried foam but could still feel a draught. I used therefore an epoxy "mortar" that comes in a gun to completely seal the thing in there. (You can btw get epoxy resin like this in tubes that fit a standard mastic gun but you need a new nozzle each time). You do not have the core drill, besides the hole shape doesn't suit it. Nor to you have the resin gun kit or I doubt a mortar gun. You need to shape, by hand, with a bolster and chisel something to go in that irregular shaped hole. Try and taper it a bit so you can gently knock it in and it stays there while you get the mortar in all round. EDIT: Oh and its Mickey not Mikey Mouse!

As I said, I'd have preferred a sinner!

TF for A142 mesh!

No, the missus has a 1975 Mini Clubman.....

I'd prefer a sinner...