Onoff

Nah, possible problem with my ring at the mo. Looking into it now.

As @newhome says. MTFU!

Off thread I know but just saw this in the CPC flyer that dropped on the mat: https://cpc.farnell.com/swissvoice/eth-pstn/invoxia-voice-bridge/dp/TE08194? Aside from the cost can't decide whether it would help in your situation...

August 21st, p26 of this thread, it was you you suggested it was "35mm or s'thing". Measure with a cheap vernier caliper, or look at the internal diameter of the rubber washer that came with it etc.

Though they don't advertise it I think NAPIT still do their "Just 8" scheme whereby you can annually verify just 8 notifiable jobs. Designed for retirees and say college lecturers who just want to keep their hand in / be on a par with their students and do the odd job for family and friends. Worth a look.

Not getting angry at all. Been there, done that! It's very difficult advising somebody. For a start it's trying to condense someones's learned knowledge, gleaned over years, into just the bits the DIY'er wants to know. They then don't have the benefit of an "old hand" looking over their shoulder as in the electrician/electrician's mate to tell them "Well done!" or "That's crap, do it again!". Then there's the whole dexterity thing that can only be learnt. It's OK saying "stick all three wires into the L terminal" but the trick is to know how much to strip, how not to nick the copper, when and how to fold a solid core back on itself so as to "double up" etc. Luckily I err on the side of thinking it's better to maybe advise someone the "right" way to do it in the hope the end result if they do have a bash will be at least "safer" than if they had gone in blind. You then get into having the proper, often expensive tools and test kit and so on as well as knowledge of Building Regs & 7671.

Can't find the 8th edition cheaper but this is good imo: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/17th-Edition-IET-Wiring-Regulations-Inspection-Testing-and-Certification/151787557359? As is this: https://www.wiringregulations.net/pub/Electricians-Guide-to-the-Building-Regulations-5th-Edition-9781785614682.aspx?

Ideally a gutsy cordless. Depends what's the walls are made of. If it's lightweight, aerated concrete blocks like "Celcon" then your cordless MAY do it., but if not... Isolate the circuit that that socket's on. MAKE SURE IT'S DEAD!. Plug extension lead into another socket on a different circuit....does the cooker switch (hopefully on a separate circuit) have a socket? Tape / clip the existing wires out of the way Prise/knock out one of the 20mm knockouts in the back of the existing back box. Drill through at a shallow angle. As to whether it's a ring, the proper way is by inspection and testing: Very roughly; isolate and test for dead. Prove your tester thereafter on a known source of supply; proving unit etc. Using a low reading ohmmeter, check for continuity of the ring final conductors i.e. P1/P2, N1,N2 then CPC1/CPC2. Cross connect the ends of the ring at the cu and test at each socket on the ring. Reading should be nominally the same at each socket on the ring. High readings should show up loose connections or spurs. Open circuits may indicate reverse polarity etc. Too much to teach you tbh. Go to college? Buy a book? Brian Scadden's stuff (imo) is a good, simple and informative read, the IET guide to the Building Regs book is good, Guidance Note 3 and so on. But.....at a push this: A ring main socket has generally two bits of 2.5mm2 T&E cable going to it, If you disconnected those two wires from the face plate they would both still be "live" as each "leg" goes back to likely a 32A breaker at the consumer unit. In rough terms then at each ring main socket the load is shared between each leg. So you isolate your power and disconnect the socket. Make safe the L,N & E of one leg (connector blocks, tape etc) and connect the remaining leg back to the socket. Power back on, does the socket work via that 32A breaker? If so that says it's likely going back to the cu. Disconnect and make safe the leg you know is "live". Do the same with the other leg. If both are showing as "live" it's likely it's a ring. If one leg is dead then it could be a spur or there's a break further down the line. None of this is certain and as you appear not to have even the most basic knowledge of domestic electrics there's great scope to kill yourself. Sorry, but that's the way it is, I'm not being rude.

FREE delivery too!

2 free tickets to the Home Building & Renovating Show via TLC: https://mailchi.mp/tlc-direct.co.uk/get-your-free-tickets-to-the-home-building-renovating-show-at-excel-london?e=a60125d76b

The existing socket stays where it is and in use. A short, new length of 2.5mm twin and earth connects it to the new outside socket which can be one or two gang. Something like this: I'm making assumptions that your ring main is RCD protected and that it is in fact a ring main. Your electrician would be able to advise better.

You must get off on waiting then!

Dunno, I'd prime and paint with a washable paint.... Rollered on neat PVA maybe? Anyone?

If you do leave it without pb under there it's up to you but at least try and foam all those "2mm" gaps. Of course pb will provide: - another layer against draughts remember why you started this! - another line of defence against the Mickey Mouse Club Not forgetting we''ll know!

Catch Blue Mountain State on Netflix if you can. (Well if your sense of humour is at about the level of the American Pie films, or slightly below...like mine).

Showing that even somebody who vagazzles their nails can do it! NO WIRES NEED REMOVING!

If you're happy with it then leave it. Imo it'll look a bit fugly and unusual for the sake of a quid, and hard to get the pb cutout to look neat. Saying that it's in a weird place anyway!

Back off the face plate and use longer screws and a finger plate if only 10mm or so...? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/X2-WHITE-FINGER-PLATE-LIGHT-SWITCH-SOCKET-WALL-BACK-COVER-SURROUND-PACK-OF-2/292677770014?

A breathable membrane imo would see a reduction in draughts. Any dry lining boxes with open knockouts I'd tape up too. Gaps in floorboards and around the edge. Seal it up too well and you'll have ventilation issues though!

She's an expert on everything trust me! Well at least she feels she MUST comment. Everytime I mention MVHR or passive esque stuff she batts on about not wanting to suffocate and the fact you can't have the windows open! Still doesn't solve the basin waste being too low.

A plastic angle I think it was he was using? Thought he'd done it tbh...

The highest point of the flashing...where it cuts into the stone wall.

No, I meant where the flashing goes 6" up the stone wall and tucks in.

The slot in the wall where your flashing goes, does it slope up?

If I get any blockage in the soil run in the loft then it's backing up in the shower. Again if the shower trap dries out we're letting in fumes straight from the cess pool rather than one longish waste pipe that's open to the air where it exits above the grill.