Onoff

A couple of questions if I may: Grey "shelf" tiles are all stuck on the length of that wall. All the mosaics for the upstand are cut. 1) Do I sit the mosaics on 1mm shims, wipe the excess whatever adhesive off, clear CT1 the 1mm gap then finish with white silicon? 2) If using Sika / CT1 then how much do I put on the back of the tile, each corner and a centre blob or all 4 sides? 3) Clear CT1 I assume or white Sika. Both ferkin expensive. A pity something like Sticks Like Sh!t wouldn't do it! 4) If I Sika / CT1 then how do I stop the 1mm shims getting stuck in there? If I take them out before the "adhesive" is set the tiles will slump. 5) 10mm tile trim. The "risk" is I push the tile too far back and it sits well under the trim. Dry fit first maybe then stick plastic shims onto the wall first to stop me pushing the tiles in too far? Cheers

My go-to, Aurora Enlite. So paranoid (obsessed?) about these things in pir I've put mine in Thermahoods. 100mm pir in the ceiling at the mo. The Thermahood gets bedded on a seal of intumescent mastic. I'm then going to foam fill around the Thermahood then over insulate with 50mm pir. Then a big, overlapping square of 150mm pir over that. Determined the "traditional", tall downlighters won't affect my insulation depth overall. https://www.thermahood.com The TH 095 is the lower profile than I've used square hood btw. Be bloody expensive though with that many lights in yours! Clay flower pots have been used in the past!

Holmfirth! Where I was introduced to heavy drinking as a 16 year old apprentice! Hurlimanns...mmmm! Used to stay in a pub up above the village...the Fox or something. Good luck anyway!

The rough guide is that if you take a hand wire brush to your rusty rebar, when it's off the rebar should remain within it's given tolerance. It's the ribs along the rebar by design that provide "grip" in the concrete not the rust. Stainless rebar is of course available.

So similar.....to my floor protection sheets!

No need, I bought one of these out of Viz: Made in Wales...

Sod the lot of you I'm going to go to the end of the garden.....and cut tiles in the dark!

Glad I can fill a few minutes of your empty lives!

Looking like Lidl might be worth a try at 49p per 64. https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/MiddleofLidl.htm?articleId=12711

Build another wall?

The man himself said buy the cheapest ones you can!

For removing CT1 we like these baby wipes: But we DON'T like these baby wipes:

This might assist ref the shower tray:

Coming up 4 in April?

Your concrete should be above the DPM layer so not an issue.

Concrete is, for years, post pour an alkaline medium. There's actually a protective, passive layer formed around the steel and even if it's rusty this layer reduced further corrosion to a minimum. The problem occurs when over time the alkaline medium turns acid. From memory this is to do with CO2 penetrating over time ( I think). I've an article somewhere detailing why some of the early art deco buildings failed along with that block of flats that came down. Best bet is use rebar that's as rust free as possible or stainless even. There are additives you can add to the initial mix and even paint on solutions designed to arrest further corrosion.

I do have a Bosch 230V one with a knackered motor someone was chucking out...wonder if it'd graft to a Makita drill?

Some small, wireless transmitters here from Wise, page 57: wise catalogue small.pdf

Thanks all. Suitably put off!

Anyone used one of these, converts an angle grinder into a small chainsaw: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Multi-Function-Electric-Saw-Bracket-Chainsaw-Chain-Kit-For-Angle-Grinder-Cool-UK/123463268898?hash=item1cbefbfa22

Sure he's not African?

Could you...replace the two gang switch with MK style gang switches...make 1 of them a Quinetic switch and the other "standard". Existing uplighters tradtionally switched. Break into the feed for the existing 2A sockets and fit a Quinetic receiver. Fit a plug in Quinetic adapter for the salt crystal light in the existing 13A socket.

The plug in receiver adapter is unfortunately discontinued. I wonder if the plug in bleeper (bleeps for 5 seconds?) could be adapted to latch a relay for the light.

Have a good look here. Might be a cheaper, single channel RF remote combo that they do as a kit/module or ready built: https://www.esr.co.uk/home.htm Don't miss the Velleman kit section as it's separate. Had quite a few bits of them myself and I think @Nickfromwales used them too.

A Mainslink transmitter getting it's live from the existing wall switch would do that end: https://cpc.farnell.com/rf-solutions/mainslink/remote-mains-control-system/dp/RF00336? Then feed the matching receiver with a permanent live from the 13A socket adjacent to the light you want to come on. Throw the existing switch, existing 2A circuit lights come on, Mainslink TX gets 230V at the same time. Receiver picks up and switches lamp on. Page 2: 2176070.pdf Deep pockets?