Onoff

@MarkyP, where in your EWI make up is the vcl, if there is one?

You having a dig Sugar?

I wonder if the possible lack of tundish would be picked up on a later inspection? Guess not if they just inspect the boiler?

Presume you have a Landlords Gas Safety Cert?

There was graphene paint a few years back to supposedly be used as a heating element on walls.

Fair enough. Was there a minimum ambient temperature allowed for in the design?

I forgot @scottishjohn was in the Arctic! Out of interest how would your build fare up North? At what point doesn't it "work"?

No vested interest here whatsoever but I can confirm, having visited @PeterStarck's house that UFH is not really required. Might have something to do with his meticulous attention to detail on the build where it counts and the fact his air tightness beats the regs by a factor of something like x4. The sprayed icynene insulation too.

Still on the drugs then? I've heard some shit in my time but this takes the top prize...

Didn't @Barney12 do a hidden hopper on a flat roof in fibreglass that worked a treat?

Just fiddling today! Thought I'd play with the tiles that line the pockets: Onto then these pocket lights using the cheapo LAPP deck lights (stainless steel, £4.99 /10). I need to drill a 22mm hole in the soffit tile (then up thru the Aqua Panel and timber beneath). No problems there. Considering the spread of light within the pocket as I have two different pocket depths, 78 & 100mm. I reckon the centre of the light fitting should be a constant from the mosaics, so 78/2 = 39mm. It'll therefore be central on the 78mm pocket but offset, 39/61 on the two deeper pockets. The arc from the lamps should appear equal on all three: Here's them in loose a while back pre mosaics etc. Interesting that within the fitting are 3 LEDs arranged 120o apart so they all have to be aligned the same way!

You WANT/NEED an open return line on any pumped system surely? Say the valve failed shut, where's the pressure going to go?

3 pockets to tile their "soffits". First one is a bit tight for getting adhesive in Thinking maybe just clear CT1 around the tile edge plus some blobs then whack it up? Cheers

No. Though what you're looking at there is where the bath sits. The 100mm floor slab is absent where the recess is and that is lined with 3/4" marine ply. The pear drop cut out gives more space for the waste trap. All this simply so the floor of the bath is level with the tiled bathroom floor. Makes a big difference imo. Done with a nod to getting older, over balancing etc. Not visible here but the bath surround sides slope inward so you can in effect stand "closer" to the bath.

The bath's under the "work bench"! Made to fit cover from 30mm chipboard with all the tat on. You can see the taps (not my choice), centre of the pocket.

Nice, did you do the tiling?

I'd have put the labels up the other way to match the kWh...

It's all dimmable.

Ah yes the damp cloth method sounds like a plan. Of course us blokes would never have thought of that, you ladies being better versed in the dark arts of cleaning!

Been a great example of tenacity and forum help imo. I wonder how many ASHP are out there, not working and giving them a bad name over something like this?

Three good suggestions. I'm unsure tbh how real grout lines will look against the faux ones. A while back I experimented with some decorating filler and 3mm spacers: In the wall pockets I've had to up to 5mm spacers between them to put on the centrelines of the main tiles: Not sure how they'll look when finished... As to using mrpb...I've visions of this ledge getting soaked by grandkids etc! Seems a pity to put mrpb over marine ply... Thinking now to maybe add a nom 30mm strip of softwood at the top, glued and screwed to the ply. It might serve to deflect the light straight down too rather than have that glare at the top...

This is how I HAD planned the tiling with the bath pocket (sketch from Jan 17 ) : The dark grey is tiles. Key is that I had envisaged 5mm grout lines! However... @Nickfromwales advice was, on pockets, to do the back first, then the bottom, then the top and lastly the sides. At the bottom leave a gap and CT1 it, a bit like this: Trouble is I've a 430mm high space and a 400mm high tile. Leaves me with a 30mm space at the top: Did half wonder whether to raise the mosaic up to start with...though even putting the bottom tile on a slant leaves a big gap to make up. Maybe I should just add two strips of 12.5mm ply and bring the 430mm gap down to 405mm? Means sacrificing the tanking strip! Also this is all marine ply and I haven't got anymore!

Sounds like your hoover is the issue. I used the Mirka sander upside down on a ceiling on my vac and impressed is an understatement. Didn't you already say your vac blows more dust than it sucks? Sounds like inch by inch then!

You could slap a clamp meter on an d see what the cable is taking in reality if worried.What's the nominal A requirement quoted for the Sunamp's permanent live?

I fancy Burnt Orange...whatever that is...