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Everything posted by Onoff
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Help with kitchen renovation/ 1st house.
Onoff replied to zoothorn's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
If you get sick of looking at those missing tiles on the left just glue a strip of stained timber up there. Just a blob of silicon on the tiles and you can remove later if you get access to a tile cutter. Btw, what size are those tiles? Mate has just done his kitchen in white subway tiles though I can't remember if they're bevelled. I could get one, cut a couple of slivers and post to you. -
Screed to falls...that was a bloody good idea! Got a pic of the problem area?
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Help with kitchen renovation/ 1st house.
Onoff replied to zoothorn's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
For someone with no tile cutter well done that man! -
Attaching Christmas wreath to powder coated front door
Onoff replied to Jude1234's topic in Doors & Door Frames
Plastic coated door? Suckers! Random eBay image: eBay, Amazon, Wilco etc. Available in different diameters. https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-suction-hooks-30mm-20pk/p/0344714? -
Cheers. Only got 140mm here from centre of 28mm pipe to loft floor.
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With hindsight etc! Tbh the pipe sits under the top of the trays but here and there as I trod on the mesh it did start to abrade the pipe without me realising it
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It was deliberate in my case. Using the Polypipe panels the Pex-Al-Pex 16mm pipe just flies in as per the video. It keeps the pipe up a bit too. The A142 mesh just sat on top. In my case though I left a square to cast my own, to falls, wet room corner. When it came to it though I felt the slab wouldn't be thick/strong enough So I hacked out the Poypipe bit by bit ruining the pir foil face. Repaired it (tin foil) and put a membrane down: Then cast a wet slab to falls:
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Don't hang about pouring the concrete once the pipes are tied on as you can tread on the mesh and abrade the pipes. My pipes were under the mesh but same potential issue.
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So I've found a 28mm magnetic filter: https://www.bes.co.uk/intaklean-2-magnetic-filter-28mm-22831 As I understand it though I need to put this in a vertical section of 28mm pipe in the return to the boiler. In the loft the return pipe is completely horizontal. I've just re lagged it: The only vertical drop is behind this boxing in downstairs: Flow I assume is on the left out of the top of the boiler. Return on the right. And looking up: Sound like a plan? Make the boxing in a bit bigger and put the magnetic filter in that 28mm drop? It'd be much more accessible than in the loft for dosing etc. Also is there any reason why the flow can't come out the other side of the boiler at the top? Second to last photo there's a plug there. It'd get rid of that awkward loop of pipe round the back of the boiler. Cheers
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Recommended to me by someone on here, Polypipe panels. They interlock and the pipe clips in: Saves using the little standoffs and no cable ties. Also don't need a membrane between the concrete/screed and foil face of the pir. However...though I used them for one room I think I'd just cable tie to the mesh like the posters before above if doing the whole house. Why? Well my bathroom slab is 100mm thick and because of the built in upstands you don't get the full 100mm depth so it sounds a bit "hollow".
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I'll have you know I swing both ways! Can't beat a drop of Chateauneuf-du-Pape...now where's that pint pot... Wine, beer, just haven't touched spirits for over 30 years now.
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My baffles were burnt through. Replaced with plates from my fabricator. Simple rectangular plates cut to size. Lid was knackered where the insuation had disintegrated: Got new insulation: Made a new lid: New gasket for the burner: Stuck a new jet in... Thermostat replaced a while back. Fire valve was playing up but seems to have settled down.
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@PeterW, ref whether it's back to the tiling after the CH/HW valves diversion... I keep missing calls from Kevin at C-Tec ref whether I can/should use CT1 Power Grab & Bond to put the tiles on the tanked deck after I sent him pics of my rough tests with it. One time I did call him he was on a day off out in Brum. Offered to call me back that night from his hotel but I said to leave it. Still find it odd how when there is no moisture on any of the tiled surfaces in the bathroom, if I leave a tile "unstuck" on the tanked deck it develops condensation underneath!
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Touch wood my Warmflow with a Riello burner has been good. Pretty sure if you want to buy one now you need to say it's for your "chicken shed", "pig sty" etc.
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The 2 & 3-port valve replacements took precedence this week!
- 186 replies
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- sunamp
- energy efficiency
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All you've got to do now is paint the walls behind to get rid of all those pencil marks and it'll look pucker.
- 186 replies
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- sunamp
- energy efficiency
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TSOs only really act now based on number of complaints they're that stretched.
- 186 replies
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- sunamp
- energy efficiency
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Ta. Is mine now deemed "fully pumped" looking at the diagram above? I assume it's worth me changing the controller? Or just put the switches to fully pumped.....not sure what they're on now tbh.
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More questions! These are my two controllers. The lower one does Downstairs CH and HW. The downstairs CH being the old 3/4" nominal bore single pipe system. I added the upper controller when I put the 4 modern radiators in upstairs (no heating there before). That was when I added the two 2-port valves to zone upstairs & downstairs. So that upper controller does Upstairs central heating only. The Hot Water side of that controller is doing nothing even though the lights on. Back then it seemed sensible to add another Tower controller and Tower 2-port valves so everything was the same make as the original "contractors pack". I think and may be wrong that these controllers are inherently wasteful. Looking at the photo below, if I set either controllers HEATING setting to CONST, then the HOT WATER follows suit. Pressing the HOT WATER grey button and it won't move off of CONST all the time HEATING is on CONST. Seems very wasteful?
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That's what I'm trying to figure, will water in the expansion pipe naturally level out to that of the header tank?
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You mean two lots of X400?
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The 22mm expansion pipe coming out of the air separator, that then goes up to the header tank... How high up that pipe would the water in the system go? Thinking if I cut it I could introduce the x400 cleaner and then repair the pipe with a coupler.
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You can get copper bus bars to connect terminals together then an end cap for the"last" one. Bits picked at random but you'll get the drift: Got to redo my CH/HW wiring centre some time so I'll post a pic. Don't wait up!
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- sunamp
- controller
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Welcome back. Nothing worse than toothache.
