Onoff
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Posts
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Everything posted by Onoff
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Or turn the mixer upside down so the outlet is out of the top? If I swap the flexis over it has a knock on effect for the new downstairs mixer that is all hard copper plumbed in. (Not insurmountable). But back to the earlier theme, I have the COLD coming into this inlet, is that right or wrong?
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The outlet being the handset?
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Deffo the pipe with the red tape on gets hot: Found the mixer instructions amazingly. "Hot on the left and Cold on the right" but viewed from what side?
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I could just swap the flexis over?
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Did I make a mistake a little while ago? As original: Now. Same as. Pipe on the left at the top goes to hot. Pipe on the right goes to the cold.
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Just went for it with the adjustables! Undid the mixer: First oddity is it seems hot is going to the cold inlet and vice versa. Is it possible these are the wrong way around? The cold inlet has a small for the cartridge: And the hot cartridge inlet is larger: All the parts: If it comes to it I can move the mixer down: (This is all eventually going..."my" eventually! )
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http://www.pavingexpert.com/featur02.htm
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If you want to go OTT then paint the concrete fence posts and gravel boards with Thompson's Water Seal.
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1. You can get decent feather edge with 4, 5, even 6mm thickness at the thin and. The cheap stuff is like a knife edge. 2. Arris rails is what they're called. Cut like this to shed water, stop moss lodging etc. 3. Rebated capping or "topper" a good idea imo. Stops the open end grain sucking in rain like a sponge.
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A little I guess. My "trick" sometimes when it doesn't get hot is to take the shower head off and let it run into the tray, that sometimes works. On occasion I'll then have to have it running full pelt and stick my thumb over the hose end. Hold it there for a few seconds and release, hold it & release. I'll find out the pump make later - (access is through the eldest's bedroom). I remember there was a NewTeam shower pump there originally and I replaced it with this one as it said it was OK for a 25gal cws tank.
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I make it 820mm drop? Still I guess not enough? I should add the pipes go up from the pump, across the top of the dormer and down to the mixer.
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Sometimes...very rarely. That's when you have to drop the handset to tray level. Yes, gravity. Done the quick sketch below. No chance of raising the CWS tank as it's right against the rafters. Could likely lower the mixer. Only got 3mm, don't think even long nose moles would get in to grip the thread that's turning.
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No mesh filters that I recall when I took this off a little while back... ...no I didn't flush everything out... The hot pipe coming in is real hot as is the rear of the mixer...that side. At each end, screws under little removeable caps. I could only undo the assembly (cartridge) where the hot comes in. Couldn't budge the cold side. Trying to take the mixer off and the cold side would unscrew OK but the right would turn along with the threaded bit behind in this generic shot.
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How's that done then? Thinking to isolate and take the bar off and de-limescale it.
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Full story...always been a pain. To get the pump to kick in invariably you have to put the handset in the shower tray. Hose comes out the bottom. Same pic below (as the one above) is typical of my (Bristan) mixer: This is the rear: So in my case cold is going to the inlet nearest the temp dial with the "override" button on. No original instructions and no red dot sticker. Easy enough to swap over if it's wrong as on push fits. But is it wrong as is?
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With the thermostatic bar type mixers beliefs it always the case that hot feeds the inlet nearest the little red button? Just wondering if ours has been plumbed in the wrong way round since day one. I changed the bar mixer like for like.
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A mate's been using MyBuilder with some "success". Had his lounge skimmed next day. Went with most/best reviews. £250.
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Half tempted to make two doors... Thinking 19mm ply core with bfo holes Starrett cut in it to lighten it up. Then faced either side with 9mm ply. 37mm overall. Route the facing ply. Oak stain. ???
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Onto the cupboard door and I've 638mm between jambs. The sapele finish temporary door is 30" / 762mm. Need to find matching oak veneered doors ideally.
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Looking at this in the cold light of day you have early adopters accepting that they're guinea pigs and that their feedback is an essential part of the R&D process. There is then a perfectly reasonable expectation that the newer models should work just as well as the old. There's then likely a section of less tech orientated people, perhaps with money to burn one may term "demanding clients", expecting it to work out of the box with no faults or glitches. Chuck in people who are a mix of all these traits. If in the early new year Sunamp come up with a definitive fix then on the grand scale of things then that's pretty quick and hats off to them. -
Interesting Sunamp comment saying don't get too hung up on %ages: https://jumpic.com/hashtag.php?q=Sunamp
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Seems he did work for them: https://www.linkedin.com/in/richard-phillips-01368547
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Nice touch of Sunamp to send Jeremy the hamper I thought...
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As in wants to kill it?
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I amazed at just how sturdy the nephew's pallet shed is tbh. Flew up too. Far better than the carp ones out of 2"x1". Some real solidity about it. If it was me I'd have gone that bit further and made lattice roof trusses o/of pallets.
