Onoff

Respect. Wouldn't know where to start.

What's the definition of "clean hard core"? Into any of mine I'll put: Brick Celcon Breeze Flints Roof tiles Ceramic, porcelain & quarry tiles Broken crockery Broken glass I avoid: Stuff I assume makes it "dirty": Timber, plastics, asbestos, rubble sacks, brick ties etc.

That's just the silicone bill!

Lidl's my favourite not Aldi. Can't fault the Workzone 140A inverter welder though. Got a 3/8" Workzone router that's dead due to the chuck locking piece being broken. Also a 230V staple gun of their's from years back that literally went bang when I pulled the trigger.

How the other 10% live! The two DG windows I had made to order last year came to about £200!

More good than bad with the newer Lidl Parkside 230V tools imo. Collated pb screw gun - v.good Multitool - can't fault it (well, quick change would be nice) SDS drill - second one I got and this sounds as dog rough as the first I took back to exchange. Pity as looks and feels like a Bosch, really tough and well made. Feels "right". Will be going back for a refund I think.

Doesn't matter, I'll KNOW! It'll actually be the 14mm tool: Tbh I cut the trim too short which would have help. The vertical to horizontal transition, below, is fairly critical as it'll be seen. Was half wondering whether to fill it flush with grout first THEN silicone as there'll be as better "bed" to work off of.

Thanks but chamfer wise that'd be the 12mm bead tool which imo would look enormous! There's the awkward what to do question then at the top where it has to blend into the horizontal 3" long bead in the corner of the shelf? Why not grout can I ask?

Can't actually remember my last alcoholic drink! 2 weeks +? Only just feeling hungry. What's the missing emoji?

Next problem the internal corner to the right of the towel rail: 5mm at the bottom, 10mm at the top: I've taken out the Forever White I had in there. (Also removed the wall/floor perimeter silicone). There's some grout already in there a few mm below. Thinking just to re grout over the top? Says it's good for up to 20mm wide.

Forever White and yes the Fugi kit. I know you said about reservations over it but think I've got it cracked and can beat the fast skinning.

Happy enough with the majority of the bath deck sealing, 8mm: I'll live with this: I got fed up looking at the silicone at the wall / floor join:

Looks useless for cutting widthwise across a 1200mm board! I bought a clamp on fence from Lidl...only 1m long. POS.!

That's why @Onoff drew it!

Exactly! When I've cocked up like this before I've added a bit of 2'x2' to support the floating and.

Yes, that's what I was getting at with the drawing. The right to left also the same problem. Same here. I do score against a metal straight edge though.

Some people will build all their studs and do a stud wall coming off of it perpendicular. They then pb the first wall but haven't accounted for the thickness of the pb. Also need to plan how you support the ends of the respective wall's pb at these junctions. Say below you'd built the stuff first, unsupported ends etc, more cutting.

I sharp sanded over the 40mm hard-core. I also slung in any half bags of off cement etc just to fill gaps: & 25mm EPS'd:

So I buy that and I'm up and running? I can 3D model in AutoCAD.

Once a Replicator can make me a fully functioning Seven Of Nine I'll buy one!

I love the Part M heights. As I go through my place I'm changing them.

FFS! Even @zoothorn managed to grasp the simplicity of stud centres! ? Be careful with the next walls coming off at 90deg you'll want to consider the plasterboard thickness at the start. Nice sketches again though. I think each should maybe have a bear's paw incorporated somewhere...

@pocster, I think he's correct. The couple I have here have to have a "baseline" to start from which is when you place it on the wall and press the button on a bit of board with nothing behind. It has to stay in that plane which you do by keeping tight against the board. If you pull away from the board it cocks it up. You're undoubtedly doing that waving it around in free air. Clamp a bit of board to your stud and have another go I would. Keep away from the clamp of course.

Best layout I had was the wc so you sat side on to the end of the bath. Came in well handy when I had food poisoning...

I only had a scrap of 2"x1" handy to do my vid so the "stud" is only an inch deep. With a 4"x2" for some reason the sensor "stutters" less.