Onoff

Think my 125mm one was about £12.

Me again...still thinking about my gate pillars! Selco have some on offer. Toss up between Tuscan & Tabasco reds: https://www.selcobw.com/tuscan-red-brick-65mm https://www.selcobw.com/baggeridge-tabasco-red-brick-65mm F2 frost resistance. Could I build with straight off the concrete base i.e. no dpc? However....looking at the posts & I have to create pillars around and I wondered whether gabion style pillars would work? Weld together 4 vertical sides of say 30x50 Lionweld open steel flooring as a column then fill from the top with flints which grow with abandon around here. Madness? Worries include cost, ideally I'd get the raw steel and fabricate here with inset edges for brick lights the control box etc. I'd then have to transport for galvanizing then collect later. Would they, as the flints were dropped in from the top chip the galvanizing off leading to rusting? If money were no object I'd do in stainless steel. http://www.pwnash.co.uk/Prod-6a.htm

The Lidl Customer Service number in the UK is 0800 9777766. I gave them a chase and they are in turn contacting the supplier Kompernass. Of course I then looked up Kompernass. Worth doing as it seems you can at least get some spares, batteries etc for the Lidl stuff: https://www.kompernass.com/index.php?route=product/search

That's what the Welsh Wizard told me to do. @Nickfromwales ?

I'm no guru, more monkey see, monkey ask / copy! If it helps @Nickfromwales tells tales of labourers humping barrows full of screed etc over Pex-Al-Pex and denying it without detriment. I'd just worry about a manufacturer's defect. If you have the test kit I can't see the issue. Tbh I tested mine off mains water with a home made rig and held it at 3bar...for months before the slab went down I had a couple of dents and kinks but was more worried about some abrasions. My pipe is under my A142 mesh and walking on it for so long before the slab was done I managed to chaff the Pex-Al-Pex outer layer in a few places.

Fitting an internal soil stack would be a bit of a pig. Though not a new build with a bit more thought I could have achieved clean external walls making future ewi that much easier! Electrics, gas & water to a kitchen island after the slab is down would also be a pain.

That's what Nick said but without the big words...

Genius, hydrogen tanks in a combat zone! https://www.foxnews.com/auto/chevrolets-hydrogen-powered-stealth-truck-enlists-with-u-s-army

I think the pressure test before screeding is a must. What varies is whether people leave it under pressure whilst the screed goes off. I did and saw a slight increase in pressure as the wet concrete (in my case) cured. There is a school of thought that pressurizing the pipe expands it slightly as would happen when it's running. Tbh with mesh in the slab does it matter?

Top tip if ever cutting stainless steel studs that have been say resin anchored in but are a tad overlength. If you've cut them with a disc cutter chances are they'll have got hot and it screws with the material properties causing the end to rust. Clean them up with a flap disc just to remove the discoloration on the end. (You can also take the burr off).

Real men do it on the cheap! ?

We actually had a RAT get in an old sofa when we first moved in. Gained access to the lounge from under the floor via oversize pipe holes in the walls. Give the cat it's due it did sit and point saying "Oh look a RAT!" Missus moved out to her Mum's for a few days with the baby. Anyone know where I can get another rat?

https://m.imdb.com/title/tt0115857/

Keanu Reeves had it sussed! ?

Don't you mean 304 is often used? As in grade A2. Had a few jobs by the seaside where we changed out the fixings for Gr316/A4. I'm often gobsmacked by the rusty bolts on flumes etc at municipal leisure centres. Remember similar at one of the Centre Parcs I went to. Very unsightly.

There's quite a bit of research into sustainable fuels with thoughts to gradually increasing blending proportions as engine technology progresses..... My thoughts are that yes as early adopters EV users will reap some benefits, no different to the FiT rate farce. As take up peaks in favour of EVs then all the plus points like no congestion charge, no ULEZ issues, lower road tax will simply be phased out because of the potential loss of revenue to government. It's already happened in part with the subsidy cut on new EV's a couple of years back. Charging anywhere but at home off your own PV and you'll comparatively pay through the nose. Even then, if home charging peaks the price of PV will go up, road tax increase etc. The masses won't / can't "win".

Can't the manifold go under the stairs i.e the other side of that wall it's on now? That's where I'm putting mine. I'm not having another heat source in the room where the stairs are. Hoping the manifold on wall and insulated tails in the floor to the other (6?) room's UFH loops will suffice.

Thinking to go with 5mm lock & top sides and go with what is in the corner. It'll roughly be 17mm from lhs frame to the edge of the quadrant, 21mm across the quadrant then 19mm to the edge of the rhs frame. There's some near symmetry at least, visually imo.

Cheering from underneath would show real support!

Mike Harding did a good sketch on buying a house and every room was done in cork...

But a larger quadrant will sit off the edge of the door frame further than the architrave.

Hinge clearance! Never gave it a thought! However... In this instance the hinge side is pretty much an internal corner where both frames meet. Using the quadrant I have which is about the same thickness as the bullnose, will put quadrant about 12-15mm from the edge on the hinge side. Question is whether to bring it in on the top and lock sides.

Are there any rules for offsetting architrave from the door frame? I've to trim the bathroom main and cupboard door frames. These are 27mm: Using this 45mm wide bullnose: Is there a "norm" for the distance between edge of frame and the front of the bullnose? Where the frames meet I'll put quadrant:

...or earthing therapy. Mind you why not, only a logical extension of the Gaia Theory that I happen to buy in to.

I'd just cast a thick concrete one in-situ using concrete dye, you could form whatever fancy T shape, curved front etc you want with shuttering. I'd probably lay some chicken wire in it. https://www.toolstation.com/powder-mortar-tone-1kg/p12419?