Onoff

But you can manage 30,000 feet as long as it's in First Class?

Think you'll want 22mm rather that 18mm chipboard t&g with 600mm centres.

What are the nominal truss centres? 600?

How about a single room MVHR?

Had a quick pace out last night. More like 9 x 6m area for the main "rectangle" of the drive but aiming to make a bit bigger to get another car on. Think I'll sort my gate pillars first then that'll make the working area for doing the drive more secure.

Fitting the extract...or not... I wanted it on the wall, up high, SHE wanted it on the ceiling. Came round to the ceiling as dead central to the tile (aesthetically best) would have put it firmly in Zone 1. Besides, because of the rainfall head being a "fixed shower head", Zone 1 extends to that height. So on the ceiling tight to the mitred wall to miss the joist above. The ideal was mid way between mitred wall and rainfall head like this: Except, as I said there's a joist and the hole would have gone right through it. As aforementioned very conscious of the joist above... It should have missed the joist by a mile... Except that...I forgot the ceiling joists aren't parallel to the room walls from when I squared the room up! The bathroom wall this end is about 3" further into the room. It's going here now though I'll just sister a joist alongside the "scalloped" one. It's a bitch scalloping a 145mm deep joist! Multitool, break off bits, drill, multitool repeat. ?

Measure existing window and get new one made to that. I did a drawing for mine when I replaced a couple: Don't forget about the cill: I made some wooden wedges up: Trial fitted: Wedged and LOW EXPANSION FOAMED: An excellent alternative to expanding foam is an expanding foam tape like Compriband. Comes on a roll and is about 1/4" thick. You have to be quick. Unroll and stick around the window frame and cill. 3rd picture above, the tape sits between the raised ribs. Whack into the hole and the tape swells to about 40mm thick max. I then drilled thru and fixed the frame using these: Then glazed from the inside and fitted the glazing strips: You'll have to apply a silicone bead externally on yours. Easy job yours. I hadn't done one since years before but the good people here all chipped in. Replaced two now and a door.

I had to look up "bomag"!

Hmm...wish the bench was still as tidy... Good excuse to give the kids a go at welding!

Ta. Might have to stretch to a proper whacker. Don't think my 5kN Evolution electric one will cut it. I've a trench or two to dig across the drive for power, comms etc. Seen too many times this done then the trench line not properly compacted and the paving sinking a couple of years later. With hindsight I should have had the trench dug and laid the duct(s) a couple of years back and allowed for "natural settlement! Needs the "elephant's foot" whacker type too. Maybe I'll get a hire deal on both whackers! ?

Possibly have the opportunity to get my driveway dug out for the cost of the dumper/digger diesel it takes. I can also get rid of the spoil too. In terms of sub base I've a fair bit of mixed hard core; 7 jumbo bags plus I think 80 ordinary rubble bags. I'll be onto Paving Expert site but is using this stuff as a sub base with minimal breaking up a goer? Trying to save all round and not hire a crusher. It's a mix of roof tiles, bathroom tiles, render brick, block, old concrete path etc. Rough area is 6m x 6m but likely to grow a bit!

My VW Golf is holding on at +200K! ? Mind you I struggle to let go of things and think anything can be repaired. Hence the cars I drive ending looking like Trigger's broom! The same age / mileage Focus hasn't fared so well due the dreaded tin worm. For all that I prefer the Ford all day long for most things from handling to comfort. Many things on the VW make it easier to service for the most part though.

Even better, generate at point of use from good old H2O.

Brilliant just brilliant. Enough left over for a stair gate?

I'd be careful. Well known issues with the non factory fitted, fibreglass X Packs etc on Ford Capris back in the day. People would affix them with metal rivets then skim over with filler, prime and paint. Over time these little fixing points would become super hot spots on Sunny days to the point of bubbling the paint and expanding to the point the kit panels could eventually loosen.

You want to look into the art of Döstädning.

Insulation going on top....of the roof joists? A wild idea but could you carry that on and down the walls on the OUTSIDE as ewi? A more seamless thermal envelope, more space inside etc. Maybe a f'glass roof with hidden edge gutter and hidden vertical gutter detail like @Barney12 did on his dormer.

How about this stuff? https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/FDAD4.html Pretty sure I have occasional visitors running along the eaves where this duct goes through so I see a potential chewing issue. If they get into the duct they can get into the void in the wet room corner! Many holes to block still!

I'd advise against insulating a shed using cans of expanding foam. Like a poor man's Icynene.

My room was so out of square and I wanted inset, illuminated pockets that I battened everything square. Tbh it was more like hanging stud walls on the walls.

I made the battened walls on the floor then raised into place. The battens were nominally fixed with x5 concrete screws. Here and there where they didn't take I used Fisher resin and studs. I really damaged my pir by walking on it for so long! Ended up repairing with foil tape. Discovered Correx too late! When the opposing battened walls were up I screwed screeding rails to them (Unistrut) and used a drag board across to get the wet concrete dead level.

My build up is similar as in wall battens on DPM. I dug up the existing concrete floor, laid compacted type 2, then sand blinded. I then made in effect an EPS "well": Over that I laid a DPM: 150mm of pir on top of the DPM: Where it goes up the wall a bit isn't stuck: I then put 1m high DPM on the two external walls: The 1m high DPM comes down and tucks under the battened wall bottom member: The floor DPM comes up over: There's a min gap behind all the battens of 5mm foam filled. Once I'd pir'd in between all the battens I put a vcl over the whole lot: Looking back it seems awfully complicated! Who cares!

...I was kidding!

Compriband would probably be the ultimate albeit expensive gap filler!

Not my table saw. Floor in mate's shed is ankle deep in sawdust anyway! ??