Onoff

Disappointed this isn't going to be circular and organic in it's form!

Yes to tie everything together. Just a thought.

Whereabouts are you? I could give you some galvanised, steel wire rope (got lots) you could wrap round and round in the formwork to keep it all together.

I'd have thought if engineering bricks have a non absorbent face then it's ordinary bricks with their "rough" face that would get more in terms of protection by oiling!

Just bought a litre from Screwfix in a fancy can for just short of a tenner. I've got to use if somewhere! Could always re-oil the air rifle stock which is probably the last time I used linseed oil. (Bought the gun with my first weeks wages as a 16 year old apprentice 36 years ago).

Still thinking a tunnel out under the slab would have been easier. Every Tom, Dick and Harry will be making jokes now.

How do you get rid of the spoil from the wall, do you have special trousers with hidden bags operated by string?

Daft question...why can't you use linseed oil on facing bricks for the same reason of not having to clean them off so much?

In my bathroom, similar size I used the green vcl from Screwfix (stock code 12869). That's only 300 gauge. Did the ceiling first by laying the vcl on top of the pb: I tried using double sided dpm tape but it was too thick on the one ceiling join - a couple of mm or more, so I ditched it and just used a black duct tape but I folded both edges back on themselves. At the ceiling, that then comes down over the battens where I battened all the walls out. My DPM comes up like this: PIR then between the battens and vcl over the whole wall. Lidl Parside staple gun and No Nonsense spray adhesive. Tbh I just foil taped all my joints: Mine's more a nod to air tightness. I've somewhat shot that in the foot with so many ceiling penetrations; traditional downlighters, body dryer, speakers, occupancy switch. I am working on a plan to reinstate the airtightness around all these fittings but it's convoluted. With hindsight I'd have counterbattened the ceiling and stuck most of this stuff in the void, under the vcl layer. Tbh everything is then plasterboarded and tiled. There ain't much air getting through them walls!

You could counter batten the ceiling to avoid puncturing the airtight layer then use conventional low profile LED fittings.

Thanks. They're for work. It's for inside some posh £500 taps with built in pir. I took my own "big box in but the closest I had was 7×2. I then noticed the tap tail ones looked a fraction smaller on the section at about 1.5mm. I'll just tell them to source a load of 7x1.5mm. Was hoping there was a standard for the tails. Thanks again.

It's just the o rings I'm after sourcing and 7x1.5 is what I've measured them at.

Not saying I'm tired or that I need an eye test but I've just attempted to weld brass to steel! Half asleep I cut it, clamped it and had a confusing few minutes. Gave up, grabbed another bit of scrap angle, (galvanised) welded no problem after dressing the edges. Brass angle came out of Molins in Deptford.

Anyone know what the standard size for the o ring is? Measuring one I reckon 7mm internal diameter, 1.5mm section. Cheers

@Brickie, assume this oiling of bricks applies to facing bricks too? Does it not mess the surface up as in if you wanted to paint with Thompsons Waterseal or similar later on? Cheers

Yep, isn't it where I detailed my attempts to make one?

+1. Not 100% reliable.

So have I done wrong here? Currently an extractor fan but with a view to this being the MVHR extract position later on. A bit constrained up in the loft: As it was I had to cut into the side of the joist: Bringing it nearer to the shower head wasn't possible due to the joist & pipes. I suppose I could redo the pipework.

Don't you mean a 115mm grinder? (Devil's in the detail etc! ? ) Using a 1mm slitting disc on edge, as a grinding disc...not the best idea imo.

I think they are serviceable as in they maybe have mesh filters that can be cleaned? Only saying this as I fitted one and over time the mains water pressure has lessened. Pretty sure they work better if fitted on horizontal pipework...I didn't! Need to service this but not a fan of working behind cramped WCs around which kids have been missing thd pan!

You're supposed to have a rubber flanged fitting like this on the flush pipe:

But bevel the end first please and use silicon spray.....

I tried making a pipe chamfer tool.

A pipe chamfer tool is useful.

@pocster will likely buy one.