Onoff

What I did find out is that the gun doesn't like a sharp sand mix! I cracked the barrel trying to squeeze it out.

A question for the expert...what's the "trick" with mortar guns? Using 4:1 building sand / opc, quite wet and sometimes it "blocks". Well mixed, no lumps etc. Sometimes works if you just shake the gun a bit. Is it redistributing the water or something? Cheers

I'd be painting that table to match...

Kevin Cashin at C-Tec said something to me about white CT1 on the lines of it can be cleaned with a mild bleach solution I think to bring back the white.

Clear is fine. White CT1 goes "near custard yellow" to quote the Welsh Wizard.

No CAD last night, omfg the headache that came on. Like something trying to get out! Not sure if it was cutting bricks with the Evolution saw, cutting stainless plate for lintels with the 9" grinder or the Mythos that did it.....

Saw this article about the Deans South estate in West Lothian. Seemingly 240 homes condemned for demolition due to improper construction with a concrete called Siporex. Have to wonder what prompted this, cracks? Did one collapse. https://www.edinburghnews.scotsman.com/news/people/this-west-lothian-ghost-town-was-earmarked-for-demolition-15-years-ago-but-some-families-still-live-there-1-5001139 Now if they had earmarked them for destruction for being seriously awful to look at then fair enough! ? Or is it just a nice spot someone wants?

Forgot about them I'll give them a try thanks. I've local contacts who do plasma, laser, water. Often I can get stuff done at mate's rates but I have to wait until they can tag it onto something. As an aside I recently got a load fixings re-plated for an R1, free, but again had to wait.

Must admit I've searched "bikini" and "lingerie".....etc

Happy I think with square edges. Just seems wrong taking a grinder to the edges of something that's just been laser cut. Might go water jet or even plasma depending on price. I was half thinking to import the sh!tty jpeg to dxf/dwg and use it as a rough guide. Straight lines are easy and for the curves thinking 3 point arcs picking up on "whatever" from the multitude of broken lines. Ideally want it done by 25th of this month...unlikely! ? Might have a crack in a minute but this Mythos is going down well at the mo...

+1 it's got his name written all over it.

That's exactly the F*** OFF, if you get in you won't get out look we're going for! I still want Alien Queen figures wrapped around the pillars.....

Yep, tried an online jpeg to dxf converter, awful results! I'll trace say the top half about an estimated centre line, then mirror it. That'll keep some of the irregular "character".

How far in is the rebar? Maybe sacrifice a holesaw the same size as the SDS bit.

Wasn't sure where to put this... These are the hinges in the church where we got married: I'd like to get 4 made up in stainless steel that will offset nicely against the satin black woodwork of my sliding gate, So mock hinges in effect. I'll probably have them done in 5mm stainless steel, laser or water jet cut whatever is cheapest. I'd like to go thicker but the gate is heavy enough already. Aluminium maybe but then I'd have to pay to anodize them. Yet to decide on a design for a mock lock, centrepiece. Really I guess it should compliment the hinge design? I'll fit them just inboard of the red brick pillars currently under construction: I'll aim to use the existing stainless coach bolts to secure them, a little longer if necessary. I'm wondering if the above hinge picture is a candidate for trying raster to vector conversion software (spoken about elsewher on here the other day) to produce a DXF? Or do I want to just import into AutoCAD as it's own layer and "trace" the outline so they're symmetrical? As an aside, when looking for ready made DXFs I came across this site, lots of good stuff on there: https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-patterns/builders-hardware-patterns.html

TEYX is the modern Hilti bit that eats concrete with rebar in. SDS Plus form. Could you maybe core drill round holes then square off afterwards by filling around the duct? How square has it got to be, would 4 smaller, overlapping core drilled, round holes do the job?

A cult? No more than Facebook, Instagram and all the rest are. All about Pinterest: https://www.pinalytics.co.uk/ You don't even have to sign up to look at the pictures and get a feel unless you want to delve deeper into the story behind the image along with more photos. Just type: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ Into your browser search bar, when the site comes up then search for what you like or are interested in; decking, raised decking, wooden walkway, wooden deck, cantilevered deck, homemade speakers, sheep etc, etc.

You ARE weird!? Just sign up on your laptop. https://www.pinterest.co.uk/

Just playing:

Just playing around... Just go to pinterest.com create a free account or get the app from the Playstore etc. An absolute mass of ideas and projects on any subject. I searched "cantilevered deck" for example: You get the odd ad thrown in. Tried "diy guitar amplifier":

Food for thought. Loads of ideas on Pinterest (free to join).

I could do with a new, (secondhand) one...

Thanks @CC45 but imo the tiling is what lets mine down. Was in Wickes earlier and saw their tile levelling kits as I walked in, just to rub it in!

Intumescent mastic?

I think I have a Hilti rebar bit here somewhere but this found at random: https://www.tooled-up.com/bosch-sds-plus-steel-rebar-cutter-drill-bit/prod/174703/?varId=174703&Referrer=affwin&source=affwin We used to drill holes hoping not to hit rebar and if we did change to one of these. I've even used a Starrett holesaw with an extension but it's brutal on them. In theory it's a big no no drilling rebar like we used to and effing up the SE's carefully designed structure! ?