Onoff

1m tall bits of wood with a base plate nailed to the bottom. Sit it on the lower plinths. Weight down with bricks. Two bits of string, where the arcs meet...or one big of string and a knot at the intersection. Tie other ends around nail in centre of 1m high posts, pull tight, knot marks centre of up slope plinths. 2300x2300 square? Diagonal bit of string will be 3252mm.

No fear of drowning now either. You can get rid of the life belts on the wall.

When I do my 30m2, passive-esque garden room it'll incorporate details gleaned off of the various threads here with not an SE in sight. I might make reference to my mid 80s copy of Part A for the flat roof joist detail but that's about it. The walls will be in effect a timber frame detail similar to Zoot's extension but I'll work backwards from a decent U value. The floor will be up to 300mm eps with a 100mm slab and UFH. For the green roof again I'll just copy what others have done here.

Pure cotton I find or silk...

@zoothorn, you're flying by the seat of your pants here by not employing a structural engineer. However...a bit of half educated searching always helps. Check this out. You will have I think to sign up to Pinterest. General guidelines from the States about cantilevered decks. I'd just pick the nearest equivalent metric sized timber and maybe go one size up depth wise for good measure. Make sure the timber strength classes are the same too. I too am a master of winging it! https://pin.it/g4efp3374gryet Just don't blame anyone but yourself if it ends up as a raft! Edit: Got a feeling you're going to love Pinterest!

Tried the above in Google Translate but to no avail... ?

I'm not saying do it on the ones yet to do or that you should have done it on the ones already poured, just what I'm used to on commercial sites where I see columns and piles and actually have been involved in building machinery support plinths for 35 years... Re-bar cages serve to reinforce the column against crushing loads that may otherwise fracture/crumble the column. A DIY method of installing vertical bars made into a cage: https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Rebar-Cages-On-site-For-Concrete-Piers/ Sometimes re-bar columns are spiral wound. Dropping a couple of random rods in vertically will undoubtedly help but it's not really "designed" as such. For what you're doing a good strong mix with a waterptoofer in should be fine and don't sweat the lack of reinforcing cage. Anyway yours is more of a pile or footing and to some extent you've the added "benefit" that they're in the ground so have lateral ground pressure acting against them. Tbh yours "look right" pretty much so carry on regardless! It's only a f**king shed! Looking forward to seeing you bring your woodwork skills to bear.

No.1 - Do something about those sticky out re-bars before you slip on the slope and impale yourself! Cut flush or jam a lump of timber over them with a hole drilled in a bit. Are said re-bars in the picture just bits of straight rod stuck in vertically? Ths concrete columns I see usually have a rolled mesh cage in them or flar plate/ vertical stud arrangement.

Sounds like my house!

Let's be honest buy a kit like this: https://www.justboom.co/product/justboom-amp-hat-kit/ ...and the collective nerd herd would have you up and running in no time.

A quick Google for "u value for different timber frame" then Images: https://www.google.com/search?q=u+value+for+different+timber+frame&safe=active&client=ms-android-samsung-ga-rev1&prmd=inv&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjon-7clajkAhVWRhUIHQ8nAgIQ_AUoAXoECBAQAQ&cshid=1567085463025&biw=360&bih=612 See the many details at the timber-frame-suppliers.co.uk links. Many ways to skin this cat.

The Bernstein has a similar, quick release button. No overshoot?

Second time I've heard of that issue! That DOESN'T happen with the Bernstein (NT2038 model) I have on the Geberit frame.

@Nickfromwales, your thoughts on RAK wall hung WCs? Turkish I think? Mate has the Geberit frame same as mine but doesn't want to pay £195 for the same Bernstein pan. Cheers

Belle. Means mixer like Hoover means vacuum cleaner. Be afraid, be very afraid! Never be tempted to stick anything in it whilst it's going round, like a shovel or you'll go with it. Mine was given to me on the usual "if you can get it going or it's going down the tip" basis. Has a Schuko mains plug / socket on I believe, which was knackered on mine. Too long ago to remember how I repaired it but I think it involved Isopon. Switch on mine is fine. My 4 leg stand has disintegrated. My drum has a few holes too. Last time I used it I had to reweld one of the paddles on. Always wash down/out properly especially if borrowed.

I wonder if it's worth cantilevering the "floor beams" out the extra 2m when you build the cabin to create a balcony. Worst case you get pulled ref the 2m rule and you have to cut it back.

Same mixer as mine I think. I bought the last 6 genuine belts a while back.

Home brew as in "DIY" not the drinky sort. Timely reminder that I've a cider kit from The Range to make sometime...luckily I've 40 500ml bottles amassed.....

Air rifle time I reckon.

I recall Nick saying that gun foaming in my horizontal soil pipe in the wall wouldn't do much to suppress noise and that Rockwool would be better. However the only sound heard is from the Geberit in wall cistern (might as well be silent) and the rimless Bernstein pan as it does it's thing and that is really quiet too. Filling noise is imperceptible pretty much. I hear more "pipe" noise oddly downstairs when the upstair en suite flushes and everything passes the end of the horizontal pipes at the branch a couple of metres from the downstairs wall hung. I guess it echos?

I think you should cast steps, or a ramp to get down into it and rather than a continuous seat, break it up with arm rest/drink holders. Maybe some lions and Christians for good measure..

That's the general idea! I think you have to pour it it one hit. If you do a mix and let it dry then lay another mix on top, the "join" won't be waterproof.

Looks like a step in the right direction...

I wondered at the difference. I've been using the Everbuild Integral Waterproofer from Toolstation for years and its really good imo. Makes you wonder as Everbuild is a Sika company. Interesting to compare the dmsafety data sheets: Then SikaProof: