Onoff

This was it originally:

It did originally, but that got in the way of doing other new pipes etc.

I'll measure the drain angles later. Will also try another synchronised flush with downstairs.

I think it's backing up again. Would a duff AAV in the loft cause a problem?

Been thinking about this all day: Scary - Chilli chocolate Posh - Prosecco (possibly Lambrini as she's from Essex). Ginger - Irn-Bru Sporty - Lucozade

Yes, I bought some 20mm galvanised couplers from CEF. Much thicker steel that the ones from Screwfix. Much more expensive though!

Weird, pretty common in this part of Kent.

Sounds better than "tastes like a burnt switch" ?

I liked the dark haired one.

Check out the test of real WAGOs vs the counterfeit ones on YouTube!

You could but WAGOs are a constant force connector and deemed maintenance free pretty much. Fit and forget even if inaccessible later on. With a terminal strip you have screws that WILL loosen over time and need periodic checking.

Do they do a carrier you can screw down for them like the 222s? Mate gave me a box of 221s I haven't even used yet and I've continued buying 222s. Fear of new fangled things! ?

Not so easy though imo if it's twin and earth and the cores are a bit short to twist them out.

I'd be putting as many of those WAGOs tucked right down the bottom at the back, maybe a couple of rows. Cut the wires back to such length that it keeps the WAGOs in place.

I've a Part P certificate. EAL I think was my course. They mean jack schidt unless you join a scheme.

47mm back box for a start. Only have 10mm of sheath poking into the box through the grommets or what looks like grommet strip in this case. It'll look better when the wires are trimmed back. Especially the cpcs, way too long. Sure this is just for testing purposes then it'll get tidied. Just a case of being methodical.

My best Megger meter was £800 at the time. I bought it unused off a mate where his firm folded with the governors disappearing into the night and he was left with all his supplied tools. He walked straight into another job so sold the tools on. The mad thing is he has pretty much zero electrical knowledge and was employed as a general maintenance man with a van and the meter was still boxed up. I gave him £130 from memory. It only does RCDs and earth loop impedance though. My insulation tester, again Megger is stand alone.

Sharp sand here too.

Should have had a beer before! Crimped a couple of 1.5mm2 wires into the tool, inside, (internal battery wiring is 18 AWG) and brought them out through a couple of drilled holes: Probably should have stopped there! Put the wires onto the Makita battery and nada, nothing! A quick check with the meter and I found I had continuity from the battery POSITIVE, through the tool switch to the motor. Had no continuity though on the negative side. Looked at the SMD laden pcb and thought I can't even see half the stuff and even with a magnifying glass probably haven't the dexterity everything's so small. I then, for some reason took the battery off. Half asleep I put it back on but with reversed polarity! There was a crack and some smoke and the variable resistor is well and truly cooked! Bin job.

I've a slightly out of date test and inspection guide here you're welcome too. Fundamental testing remains the same tbh. The Scadden books are pretty good imo but for belt and braces the latest Guidance Note 3 is probably the best bet (about £27). Lots of clear, pretty pictures. I know I'm rarely serious but dead testing prior to energizing a circuit is a must. Saved the day for me on many an occasion. Done properly it'll flag up your and other's mistakes and tbh isn't that hard to do. An all singing all dancing Megger multi function tester is around the £800 mark now. Of course you have to know how to use it.

Problems with your ring? Live by the sword etc! ?

I feel your pain! Calculating the losses for the bathroom as it's basically now an insulated box (and will be nominally airtight) is something I'd like to do later (along with an airtightness test), these things just out of interest. I've two different wall constructions. On one wall out of the 4 the insulation thickness tapers from 50mm one end to nom 100mm the other where I squared the room off. How I'd calc that I have no idea. Whatever, it's a damn sight better than before! ? Could you not "work backwards" so to speak? As in if having fabric elements of varying construction just choose to ignore then, then measure overall heat loss for the whole house over a period of time and figure an average U value given to total wall/floor/ceiling areas? ...or something like that?

... und eine große Wurst?

Buffalo board goes round the outside... Malcolm McLaren?

James Latham at Greys stock it down here in 10x5 sheets. Buffalo board they call it.