Onoff

Treading on the shoulders of giants, you are!

I could have maybe "hidden" a joint behind the towel rail and had a deeper tile below the window? I find a lairy blind can help take the eye off of numerous cock ups...

Are you doing the vertical joints in line (like mine) or staggering them?

Start on the wall you won't see when you first walk into the room maybe, do your "training" on that?

Tbh lowering the CEILING 40mm was the option I perhaps should have taken! So many "ifs".....

Next time... herringbone!

Back on thread then. Reckon I know what not to do ref sliding gates and @Big Jimbo and others on here will add.

I believe that's where the phrase "I'd stick my arm in a sliding gate for a go on that!" comes from.

What gates?

A mate is mulling whether to cover his slatted gate with a bfo sheet of clear polycarbonate to reduce the guillotine effect. The trouble is, the surface will, at least on one side, still be "ribbed" and not smooth. That could catch somebody.

Damn you, I'm sussed! ? Indeed, in Dublin.

Have a look at Easygates for ideas. I bought my Chamberlain Liftmaster kit from them. https://www.easygatesdirect.co.uk/store/index.php They'll make them too: https://www.easygates.co.uk/gates-and-railings/ If you plan on doing your own gate then these also are good for an idea on tracks, rolling gear etc. (Local to me too). https://www.barrier-components.co.uk/? You can always stop the track where the pedestrian bit is. I've both made tracks from 20mm galv round bar and bought them pre formed. Whatever you do there's lots of H&S stuff to comply with to make them safe.

I'm particularly pleased with the way my gates coming along. Keeps the super car stable safe at least. SWMBO, pictured, is one reason all my jobs take so long... (Mods, any chance of a tongue in cheek emoji? ?)

What's the best method for dealing with neighbour's invasive ivy?

3.6m here clear span between brick pillars. If anyone wants to give me a Tesla to try can I have a Model S please as I'm not so keen on the look of the 3.....

Completely usual to have a pedestrian access facility whereby it only opens a fraction. From one of the remote fob buttons, a button in the house, on the intercom etc. (A nice touch I've done is to buy a Ford or whatever pushbutton to go in a dash blank and solder the wires to a gate key fob up inside the dash). An alternative is an opening gate within the sliding gate (with the appropriate safety interlocks etc). A sliding cantilever gate does away with the need for a gate track. The gate control PCB can be mounted down with the motor or in its own remote box on a pillar etc. Don't underestimate the amount of work involved. Plan the cable runs and get someone to double check them. Work out your cable runs to lights, sensors etc and don't skimp on the ducting. Think I've 14 cable entries into my box. Fit safety edges. Typical gate manuals attached (mine's a CB22) Look at the CB2 and it shows clear connections for the pedestrian function. Think how said gate will affect your post and deliveries. You can build a post box into the gate or pillars, fence adjacent etc. Yours will be likely finished before mine is btw. ? cb2.pdf cb22.pdf

Did cross my mind actually. Any pointers to what system?

From the YouTube videos I've watched you're supposed to have a "flat" piece of tile, sitting on the tiles either side, to support the muck before you fit the ridge tile. Looking here the muck is just under the long edges of the ridges tiles. Whether there's any mortar in the curved joint between ridge tiles is down to luck it appears! I wonder if I could use cloaking boards to support the mortar at the ridge tile joints?

I can see sky, I'd rather do it now than the depths of Winter. Sad thing is the garage roof is in better nick than the one on the house! ? Actually I reckon sort this ridge (and hips) and all good. Not sure what the felt is like down at the eaves yet.

My garage roof, never really done anything to it. Felted tiled and battens. Had cause today to go in during a power cut and saw chinks of light right up in the apex. Along the ridge the felt has sagged and fallen in in a few places. Got up there with a halogen lamp. It looks as though the ridge has been covered by a roll's width of felt folded down the middle. So not a big job, straddle the roof, take off the ridge tiles and maybe a couple of rows down including the battens. Before I redo the felt should I maybe "sark" say a foot strip either side of the ridge? I'd set the sarking boards flush with the face of the trusses. Not sure what the norm is! Cheers

Eek! ?

Big mess. I imagine with experience there is a sweet spot that minimises waste. I would, 100%, use a tile levelling / gapping system on the walls and floors next time. If there is a next time. Worst bit of the bathroom both in doing it and how it turned out. I reckon I'd be alright if I was apprenticed to someone for a bit. You can see why bathroom fitters and tilers earn so much! ?

Wrong person to ask mate! ? I seem to remember going OTT with adhesive, notching the wall in one direction then the tile in the other. I was squeezing more adhesive out from the joins than eventually held the tile to the wall! The one thing I forgot was to back butter the tiles when I did the wet room corner. I just notched the floor. (Mind I forgot to add fibres to the slab).

What NOT to do: I should have moved everything up a bit to avoid the silly, time consuming rips at the ceiling. Jury's out for me on putting fittings in one tile. I did for the shower controls. For the flush plate though I didn't. Dead easy to cut 4 squares out (though this 10mm off):

This would have you, no messing.