Onoff

Anything "tin foil" like will to some extent reflect but the metal will heat up and radiate up as well as down. Hence the need for insulation underneath. Is there any insulation under the concrete floor? Do you have a link to the kit, ref the thermo board thickness?

If it's less that around 150mm of pir you are just leeching heat into the ground and then some. You'll like be gobsmacked as the %age losses you'll have there.

@AshleyH, out of interest is this a retrofit? How much and what sort of insulation do you have under the floors?

No kickboards on a platform where materials are stored, no outriggers etc ?

I think @Jeremy Harris used black upvc. Could be wrong..... Edit: I wasn't wrong/he did:

Get rid of a bit of that green cupboard to the left if necessary:

Like Sam Neill in Event Horizon me!

He likes his shower trays like his men!

Don't your red/black things level and keep the gap?

I'd love a snug fit...

Doesn't the surface area decrease with time so the corrosion accelerates? Is it worth descaling every time with say a circa 40% phosphoric acid?

Especially if you creep up on them from behind...

The McAlpine anti siphon trap I bought sat too high so I bought a telescopic, non anti siphon one and made a telescopic anti siphon trap: & two become one: Looks like you could change that lower elbow and fit the anti siphon type.

Though some people's houses look like the CAD renderings from before they were built! ? Hell, @LA3222's slab look superimposed! I rest my case with @Tennentslager's effort:

Well it's up and looks better than before imho. Capping came from Eurocell. Its lovely to cut and work with: Need to do something with this corner though. Capping is cut level with the gutter board to the right. Tbh I'll likely just cut a timber block to shape and stick that in. Then paint it and the cut ends with Bedec barn paint.

You maybe one of those unfortunate people who are acutely sensitive to the vibrations of the dilithium crystals inside ASHPs. A strapadictomy might cure it. I'd ask the engineer when he comes.

D shackles or karibiners onto the single hook.

What's one of them then? Edit: A quick Google showed me. No, if it comes to that I'll be re felting the whole extension roof.

Ta. Could I pilot the timber a little, smaller than the poly pin dia, for less chance of splitting the battens?

So you can return into the cold feed at the bottom of the tank?

So in a traditional system, to fit a return pump, the return has to go into the cylinder at a certain height? This image, picked at random, seems to suggest so. Means letting in an Essex flange is it? Are pipe sizes important on the return?

Right or wrong I cut and treated (dunked) some 2x1" (true size) battens, 135mm long. Affixed to the wall with an M6x6 Fischer fixing dead centre and backed up by a couple of blobs of CT1. Ran out of CT1 so switched to the half tube left of BT1. Gunned some here and there down the edges too. Only one fixing as I didn't want to disturb the top bricks/new infill though I did in a couple of places. Old board was an inch thick. This capping once on the battens is 34mm. The tiles will hang over 10mm less. I might put a filet of black roof mastic where the board meets the underside of the overhang. Only pita is I could only get 50mm Polypins in black. Going to have to chop 10 down with the angle grinder and put a point on them again.

Mathis? Wasn't aware you pointed grout tbh. Ram it in then wipe off with sponge at 45deg so as to never run along a grout line and inadvertently remove the grout.

Put the top shelf high enough and you wouldn't see the wiggly wall. How about something like this: You could cut simple housing joints with your router, both sides of the board (rather than the one side shown below) and the whole lot just slots together. Glue in the joints, weight on top whilst it sets. You could back with the cheapest 8"x4" hardboard/ply sheet. What have you got kicking around in terms of timber?

Problems with small things falling out...sound familiar?