Onoff

Likewise it could be all the hot air.

Yep it just works. I must admit it took me a while to get into their instructions for the WC frame/flush plate and then wall drain but once you do it all makes sense. Don't like that they mix mm and cm on the same drawing though.

Nor can I.

I've no real answer. Get it right in the first place or compromise as you have with planted-on, rather than hinges let into the jam. You're compounding a f*** up rather than sorting the source of the issue. Why can't you put a straight edge against the door jam and determine where the bow is. I assume it bows out in the middle towards the room. Why? Can you not remove any packing behind the jam and get rid of the bow. Is there a "hollow" behind the jam?

Is "surrealer" a word? ?

When I punctured my new bathroom ceiling that had a continuous, airtight vcl and 100mm of pir above, my heat losses went through the roof - pun intended. This aside from the draught issues created. The one that really brought home to me what this air tightness is all about was the old soil pipe hole through the wall. I cut a round of lightweight block and foamed it in. Even like that below I could still feel a draught coming in from the wall cavity! You think expanding foam is this magic, fix all, wonderful stuff but it needs to be done properly. You then still have the porosity of the surrounding brick / blockwork. I remember being amazed at the force of the draught on this North facing wall coming through the tiny holes. In the end I I had to dig the foam out a little and fill the recess with Fischer chemical resin. What I'm getting at is the hard learnt lesson of "fabric first". Insulate and draught proof to keep that precious heat from escaping and nasty cold from coming in!

Wtf does "udder" refer to?

Good luck!

I thought the IV stand was a nice touch!

Zoot, as @Declan52 said earlier there are online calculators. https://www.bestheating.com/btu-calculator? Write a list of your rooms. Use the calculator to determine the BTU required for each room and note it down. Then figure what BTU rad you actually have in each room and compare to what you should have.

'Normal" insulation... The surveyor one assumes was from the crowd who put the kit in? At best he'll have looked up in any loft you have, seen "insulation" and ticked "normal". It's a box ticking exercise. The fact it's not maybe tucked in properly at the eaves or a bit patchy won't matter a jot. Your sort of install for these firms is g'teed money in the bank, through the RHI they get. They should do it to a standard but I bet you'll be lucky if they do. The best job is often the one you do yourself as you found re-doing your loft supposedly built to regs. Surely you may think there's some official scrutiny of how these firms work? On paper maybe. For everyone who complains there's 100s who don't. The installer could fold only to spring up again when yet another Government grant scheme is rolled out. To think I turned down the 19 year old babysitter and her lesbian BFF last night, all to go into the shed and look for a radiator key for you! Do your bit and help everyone here diagnose what you have and if possible make it better.

No he didn't, it was me...twice now...3rd time pending! ?

Sorry, my mistake, I thought you were agreeing with me! ?

Yep.

To be fair it's not just Joe calling you one! ? I may have missed it but do you have say a single room thermostat mounted somewhere? On a wall? As a portable unit? I have no clue how an ASHP works but could see if the room where the stat is is below temperature it'd fire up the ASHP if it was within its time to come on. Nobody is suggesting you should have tried to specify your own rads prior to install. Checking that what you have now are suitable for the rooms is worthwhile all day long. You might just find they've taken the piss and put undersize ones in from the start.

Pollack!

Begins with C.

Going back over 20 years now and when we moved in there was no heating in our 4 upstairs dormer rooms. Downstairs was all rads on the old single pipe system. I went down to Wickes and picked up one of their "Good Idea" leaflets. The predecessor of this: https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/8269372/choosing-fitting-central-heating-radiators-wickes I MAY have the original leaflet somewhere at home. Anyway, it's a dead simple guide. 1) Work out your room's volume. 2) Calculate the nominal heat output in BTU/HR or Watts 3) There's then various factors to take into account for that nominal heat output; for ceilings over 3m height add 20% for a North facing aspect add 10% and so on. 4) You end up with a figure then select the nearest rad to your requirements from the table in the link. If a single's too wide to fit or you don't like the space it takes up, you go for a double with the required output etc. From memory I went one above the nearest. End result is my 4 upstairs rooms are toasty warm when the rads are on. Given that the losses through the fabric are a pain but they clearly give enough heat to heat the rooms. I'd suggest you do the same excercise with what you have fitted. First measure your rads with a tape and take a stab at what BTU it gives out by comparing a similar size rad on the chart. That's the real easy bit. Then, room by room do the calcs and see what BTU is required. See if the rad output is enough. You will at least have some idea then if the installer has been duly diligent in sizing the rads you've got.

One of these 3 then: https://catalog.international.geberit.com/en-ZA/products/CH3_100902/Systems/Installation-and-Flushing-Systems/Geberit-Duofix/Installation-elements/Elements-for-WCs?tab=products&name=&type=Sigma+12+cm&ppp=15

Tbf to the installers, if you drove them as nuts as you do me they might well have missed some basic install checks such was their hurry to vacate the premises!

Seem to recall you paid £555. It's a UP320 Sigma. Was it 80 or 112cm (that's floor to top of frame height).

Same bits I had with my Geberit frame. You still got the box the frame came in? There'll be a long number on there like: 111.799.00.1

Masochist.

Those studs on mine are M12 not M10 btw.