Onoff

Rails = ledges yes, the x3 horizontal members. 4mm screws are no use. You need No.12s probably. Table below has nominal sizes and shank diameters. Don't forget you measure a countersunk screw along its whole length, a roundhead you measure under the head to the pointy tip. You don't want to punch out the other side of your ledge. 1 3/4" is 44.45mm. Plus the hinge thickness you should just be ok with a No12 X 1 3/4 long countersunk screw. You can always nip a bit of the screw point off with a hacksaw etc. Check head dia on a No.12.

Pretty sure my (M12?) bolts had a bit of wobble.

As my pan was non Geberit I had to go off piste with the fixing detail. I was paranoid about the pan material sitting on the metal bolt threads. I used the clear sleeves and a length of plastic conduit:

I've got an open bottom. (So no need for a 2mm pack here with the Bernstein pan).

Bet you don't hear that very often? ?

I didn't sit on mine until the CT1 had gone off. I used it as both packer & gasket as my pan sat across 2 tiles that weren't dead flush. Didn't over tighten for fear of cracking the pan but it certainly didn't wobble.

There have been a couple of good articles in The Times over the last few years ref this. Google "swimming ponds the times". You'll need a Times subscription to view the full articles.

I've 300' of feather edge fencing running East/West across the valley. Concrete posts, 3 X 3m arris rails. Never had a problem.

Thought I recognised the fold down bed in the photos!

Tempted to drop a table spoon into my favourite mug and chuck it on the induction hob here tbh...

So in effect an induction "rod" is it? Looks great until you trip and impale yourself on it.

Luxury! I shower in mine at about 9/10degC. I DREAM of 14.5!

Like Ladybird simple?

Top tip when chiselling out for hinges. Make sure the bevel faces the waste side. This should ensure you cut to the line and not over it.

Especially in potentially brittle face plates (though I still try and do it).

PoliSHED! ?

Has it dropped below 9degC in there yet?

For a change YES! The hinges need to sit dead centre of the rails, the end. First thing I'd project centre lines onto the door face in light pencil. Is the architrave on and fitted? I'd have left it off and set it back a bit from the jam so you don't have to chisel it out. Correct me if I'm wrong but your hinge has to go like this: (My hinge is bent to buggery btw): Now one problem you have is that I imagine like this sh!tty old hinge the countersunks are only one side? I'd not think too hard about this, just use round head screws where it attaches to the jam. They'll push into the door edge a tad, so what. See where they mark it and drill a little recess if necessary for each screw head. It's called compromise! How thick is the door plus the rails? Screws: What is the hole size in the hinge? Use a twist drill to gauge this. I'd wedge the door in with the right gap at the bottom so it clears carpet etc. Then slide the hinges up, opened like in my photo so they are on the centre line. Mark where they are going to go. Remove the door and cut out for the hinges. Ordinary hinges but principle's the same: When you mark out use a chisel like below: If you f*** up drilling the holes then PVA in matchsticks (more than one if required), cut off level and redrill ?: Having the screw heads all rotated the same way looks nice imo: Get on with it!

+6910

Were you shivering when you typed that?

I cocked up height wise. It was near enough dead in line though. Had an anti siphon trap: Whoops! So I got one of these: Took the telescopic section and added to the anti siphon bit of the first trap. (Both traps McAlpine): Some foil tape to finish off on the black plastic pipe!

If you can CAD up a model and provide an stl file one of us can print a prototype.

?

Difficult to say whether selling it with 2 or 3 kids will add more or less value...

I'd remove the plastic U trim and get a bit of iron on grey trim. Heat it up and apply with a wallpaper seam roller. Actually.....I'd remove the plastic U trim. Clamp a sacrificial board to the drawer back. Drill a tad deeper with the appropriate sized Starrett. Refit the trim. ?