Onoff

@zoothorn, might sound like a daft question but have you or anyone else bled (the air out of) the radiators?

Printing 11 isn't a massive deal tbh and wouldn't use much material. What I find for things like this is (to my mind anyway) the quality is lacking. The models I create look a million bucks: The reality can be a bit "grainy". One of my models brought to life by my lad: Saying that, what some people will print and be happy with is dog rough appalling imo! NOT one of mine btw: Have had some success plastic priming and spray painting parts.

You are correct in that the hinge being set in does serve a purpose to transfer the door weight onto the "shelf" created by the hinge recess. I think it just looks naff planted on the jam as an aside. If it works for you though go for it. More important if you do so to then use decent, chunky screws, as they'll be more in shear if not supported.

Check out @Big Jimbo's "shed" build: This chap is popular, thread on here somewhere about it:

Slack git still hasn't finished it last I heard...

If you want to use 4mm go for it, I wouldn't as I've said. Likely nor would others on here! No. 12 X 1 1/2" should do. Just don't over size any pilot hole. Just get it on with whatever chunky screws you have and swap out later. 6mm black coach screws with a square head would look good... If not black the use a black permanent marker. Clean and give the screw heads a going over with the pen. Let dry, repeat. Touch up once in place.

That's Weebles!

Rails = ledges yes, the x3 horizontal members. 4mm screws are no use. You need No.12s probably. Table below has nominal sizes and shank diameters. Don't forget you measure a countersunk screw along its whole length, a roundhead you measure under the head to the pointy tip. You don't want to punch out the other side of your ledge. 1 3/4" is 44.45mm. Plus the hinge thickness you should just be ok with a No12 X 1 3/4 long countersunk screw. You can always nip a bit of the screw point off with a hacksaw etc. Check head dia on a No.12.

Pretty sure my (M12?) bolts had a bit of wobble.

As my pan was non Geberit I had to go off piste with the fixing detail. I was paranoid about the pan material sitting on the metal bolt threads. I used the clear sleeves and a length of plastic conduit:

I've got an open bottom. (So no need for a 2mm pack here with the Bernstein pan).

Bet you don't hear that very often? ?

I didn't sit on mine until the CT1 had gone off. I used it as both packer & gasket as my pan sat across 2 tiles that weren't dead flush. Didn't over tighten for fear of cracking the pan but it certainly didn't wobble.

There have been a couple of good articles in The Times over the last few years ref this. Google "swimming ponds the times". You'll need a Times subscription to view the full articles.

I've 300' of feather edge fencing running East/West across the valley. Concrete posts, 3 X 3m arris rails. Never had a problem.

Thought I recognised the fold down bed in the photos!

Tempted to drop a table spoon into my favourite mug and chuck it on the induction hob here tbh...

So in effect an induction "rod" is it? Looks great until you trip and impale yourself on it.

Luxury! I shower in mine at about 9/10degC. I DREAM of 14.5!

Like Ladybird simple?

Top tip when chiselling out for hinges. Make sure the bevel faces the waste side. This should ensure you cut to the line and not over it.

Especially in potentially brittle face plates (though I still try and do it).

PoliSHED! ?

Has it dropped below 9degC in there yet?