Onoff

Only what I've read elsewhere, maybe I've got it wrong. Seems sensible just to isolate each with valves (like on a CH pump) should you need to replace one then you can work on that without losing the good one for a period.

Why? There's good reason why they're plumbed in parallel.

This link popped and I thought oh, didn't realise they did some stuff online: PARKSIDE - You got this! | Workshop, Garden and Tools PARKSIDE - You got this! | Workshop, Garden and Tools www.lidlzone.com However, something didn't ring true to me. IT APPEARS TO BE A SCAM! DO NOT USE.

Just do it. The local authority won't want the bad press for kicking up on a sustainability element over a technicality. If they do just refer them to their own sustainability statement (there'll be one) and that you'll go to the papers as well as appeal.

😂 I've seen hundreds "let go".

I can tell stories about corrosion issues with a famous stainless barrier across a famous river...but I won't! 😉

This whole Sunamp failure seems a case of someone with a clever, clearly workable PCM formula not appreciating or understanding real world materials behaviour in the case (pun intended) of the containment. The hand stirring it is probably the bean counters. If I recall correctly the product was at one point value engineered for the mass market. I've been fixing, modifying and providing feedback on bespoke kit for a living for nearly 30 years. Designed by chartered & software engineers in a warm office who didn't realise "it" would (or more often wouldn't) behave like that in the real world. I know plenty of God like TIG welders who make swirl pots and custom fuel tanks in their sleep / for fun. I personally would construct an outer and inner stainless shell. After fabrication the space between the two would be filled with "expanding foam". That would require careful welding of braces to limit unsightly swelling. It could be done. Heating elements, pressure relief valves & thermistor stacks could be replaced from outside the shell. As aforementioned the PCM could be filled via a screw cap perhaps even with a low point drain to assist replace replacement. Totally doable imo. It's only time, money, knowledge & ability stopping me...mainly just the last 4!

ChatGPT suggests SAT will have a minimal effect on stainless steel, particularly 316L )in part due to the absence of chlorides as Jeremy mentioned). So it's salt Jim but not as we know it! https://chatgpt.com/share/678b5bfc-67dc-8006-abdf-68dedb82e418

Around £230 for 25kg and it comes with it's own plastic containment vessel! If there's space for expansion inside the Sunamp then how does it expand / rupture? For some reason I always thought the PCM was contained in a vacuum, is it?

Yeah but this a box with sharp corners and dodgy welds. They probably need to take a leaf out of sealed lead acid battery book. That plastic enclosure looks less structural than a washing up bowl. If you took the appliance white shell as the biscuit tin, the containment the translucent flimsy insert that holds the biscuits! Is the thermistor string in its own tube or direct in the PCM?

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/maco.200290004

Did he say earth loop impedance?

I was thinking fill the container with the PCM post welding. Tbh they could have a fine thread filler cap. I'd hazard make the containment well and strong enough out of stainless and it would nigh on be immortal. You could even periodically swap out the PCM. I wonder if there's any mileage if someone had an old unit with failed containment to do just that.

Why not use a grade 316 marine grade stainless box to contain the PCM? Could be TIG welded and internally braced to limit "swelling". Thinking 316 (marine grade) stainless would be ok with the "salt" that is the SAT. OK this is ali but I know some mustard TIGists:

😉

Is this a new issue? Is the B20 RCBO he's fitted the same make as the C16 one it replaced? The type of RCD section within RCBOs can vary: https://www.electrical-installation.org/enwiki/Types_of_RCDs The individual RCBOs should have an RCD test applied to gauge tripping and also their ramp times. The fact that it's been upped to a 20A and not tripping is perhaps telling. B curve is for low inrush currents, C for medium and D for high. If it's an inrush issue then it's usual to go from B to C curve or even D not the other way. If the cumulative load is too much for the incoming supply then you might need to think about spreading it across phases if you have 3P coming in. Or timers. As for diversity on heating then in a domestic premises this would be 100% up to 10A + 50%. There are other ratings for other than domestic in the OSG. Find out the rating of each unit.

If the floors solid you could likely fix down 4 sides with CT1 or something.

I was worried you'd been ill when I read that!

Yes it will. We do ASA here no problem on the Bambu X1C:

I would print in ASA. The X1C will handle it without issue. ASA has something like ten times the UV resistance of ABS.

No probs at all cutting out for a niche. Consider your niche vs tile size carefully so as to end on a grout line, consider how the trims will sit etc. Oh, and use a tile spacing / levelling system, wish I had 😡

I'll raise you square guttering with 3D printed end cap etc.

If was @Andy T iirc. He retired from Sunamp circa 2018.

Salt 'n vinegar crisps? Found this that suggests SAT in it's raw state can suffer issues. I don't for a minute pretend to understand most of it but it seems to suggest SAT needs certain additives to be used successfully as a PCM. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7040703/