Onoff

Because ze Germans at least realise that once the Chinese control our power infrastructure they're only a flick of the switch away from The Great Over Voltage Disaster where all their cheap mains powered wall warts etc catch fire at once...everywhere. It'll be Dresden, Cologne all over again!

This: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QUDSW.html Quinetic receiver with an added latching relay, light stays on until you switch it off.

A piece of string tied to your willy?

A sharp chisel gets the beads out without damage: Take the long beads out first, then the short ones. Refitting, short beads in first, long ones last. Ask me how I know! Recently needed a replacement DG unit 849 x 309 x 19.5mm just over a year ago, had a "daisy" pattern. Paid £39.59 supply only.

...that they were aluminium 😂

Each to their own. I've done it successfully several times on different makes of DG unit, old and new.

You do if you are going to fit it yourself.

As well as the size. You'll need to know the thickness of the DG unit and glass shade or it'll stick out like a sore thumb against the others.

I'm only guessing mind... 😂 https://chatgpt.com/share/67915a65-72e4-8006-81ed-e756c759a288

Sh!t travels downhill, pay day's Thursday are apparently the only two things a plumber needs to know according to my pipe fitter / welder mate. Gets very upset if you call him a plumber. Edit: VERY upset.

Worth lashing in one Meanwell unit on one RCBO as a trial?

Meanwell for example do relatively cheap, 6kW inrush limiters, 2 module wide and DIN rail mounting but only 16A. Mix and matching these with whatever RCBOs are in the cu could cause you incompatibility issues and indeed invalidate insurances as going against MIs. That is even if there is space in the cu. They don't do a 20A unit but a 28A but I think that is 3 modules wide. A bfo, separately enclosed, upfront current limiter serving all the RCBOs is an option but if that fails ever you potentially lose power to all RCBOs and thus heaters. I'm thinking if this is the route taken, then an enclosure with a current limiter per heater feeding an enclosure with just the heater RCBOs. That gets over the different makes in one cu issue. Unless you can get inrush limiters the same make as the RCBOs. A conundrum for sure which is why the sparks is perhaps taking his time. Put it to him maybe. Should be cheaper than a whole new board.

Nice job. Did you get a man round to put it in for you?

Sounds like it would be sensible to install Sunamps on a wheeled dolly!

Only what I've read elsewhere, maybe I've got it wrong. Seems sensible just to isolate each with valves (like on a CH pump) should you need to replace one then you can work on that without losing the good one for a period.

Why? There's good reason why they're plumbed in parallel.

This link popped and I thought oh, didn't realise they did some stuff online: PARKSIDE - You got this! | Workshop, Garden and Tools PARKSIDE - You got this! | Workshop, Garden and Tools www.lidlzone.com However, something didn't ring true to me. IT APPEARS TO BE A SCAM! DO NOT USE.

Just do it. The local authority won't want the bad press for kicking up on a sustainability element over a technicality. If they do just refer them to their own sustainability statement (there'll be one) and that you'll go to the papers as well as appeal.

😂 I've seen hundreds "let go".

I can tell stories about corrosion issues with a famous stainless barrier across a famous river...but I won't! 😉

This whole Sunamp failure seems a case of someone with a clever, clearly workable PCM formula not appreciating or understanding real world materials behaviour in the case (pun intended) of the containment. The hand stirring it is probably the bean counters. If I recall correctly the product was at one point value engineered for the mass market. I've been fixing, modifying and providing feedback on bespoke kit for a living for nearly 30 years. Designed by chartered & software engineers in a warm office who didn't realise "it" would (or more often wouldn't) behave like that in the real world. I know plenty of God like TIG welders who make swirl pots and custom fuel tanks in their sleep / for fun. I personally would construct an outer and inner stainless shell. After fabrication the space between the two would be filled with "expanding foam". That would require careful welding of braces to limit unsightly swelling. It could be done. Heating elements, pressure relief valves & thermistor stacks could be replaced from outside the shell. As aforementioned the PCM could be filled via a screw cap perhaps even with a low point drain to assist replace replacement. Totally doable imo. It's only time, money, knowledge & ability stopping me...mainly just the last 4!

ChatGPT suggests SAT will have a minimal effect on stainless steel, particularly 316L )in part due to the absence of chlorides as Jeremy mentioned). So it's salt Jim but not as we know it! https://chatgpt.com/share/678b5bfc-67dc-8006-abdf-68dedb82e418

Around £230 for 25kg and it comes with it's own plastic containment vessel! If there's space for expansion inside the Sunamp then how does it expand / rupture? For some reason I always thought the PCM was contained in a vacuum, is it?

Yeah but this a box with sharp corners and dodgy welds. They probably need to take a leaf out of sealed lead acid battery book. That plastic enclosure looks less structural than a washing up bowl. If you took the appliance white shell as the biscuit tin, the containment the translucent flimsy insert that holds the biscuits! Is the thermistor string in its own tube or direct in the PCM?