Onoff

Best done with the MCB in the OFF position...

The one I saw was burned out on one of the theoretically maintenance free connections, the sliders, on the DP switch. Assembly fault, spring tension issue etc ??? It went straight back to the supplier and was exchanged. Might have a pic somewhere.

Is that the new stuff with incomers that like plug in on springy clips? Saw a brand new board burnt out.

Even if they do you could fit a 100mA Type S RCDs to supply the sub boards then the sub boards could be all 30mA RCBOs. Bi-directional RCBOs seem to be the thing at the mo. Then of course you'll need to consider AFDDs...

That's a wall drain btw and the wet room corner tiles slope towards it.

Graphite spray oil or powder is good for all things lock and handle related. Lidl occasionally do a graphite spray.

I was looking for the old Seek 'n Seal we'd use around our windscreens as kids with leaky old Fords. Came across this and liked the name: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Captain-Tolleys-Creeping-Crack-sealer/dp/B003T6EJ9A/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?

Our Electra Elecheib, designed in Israel, made in Turkey, bought from Comet induction hob is great.

🤣

Not the first time you've heard that I bet!

You might find this interesting. Some of that old twin and earth with the white sheath just seems to crumble https://electrical.theiet.org/wiring-matters/years/2021/84-march-2021/estimating-the-age-of-an-electrical-installation/ A discussion too on here from years back:

Yes, I really need to get rid of my overhead power supply to the house one day!

That's a possibility. If the outside light fitting is wet you could be getting a neutral to earth fault irrespective of whether that breaker is switched off. Might be worth isolating that "wet" light altogether.

For example: Also junction boxes that haven't had the lids put on properly and have open cable entries. Mice can get through a hole the size of a pencil. You can get slugs, wasps etc in there too.

I'd just chuck a cheap 2 channel controller at it if wanting a quick fix to try. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Flomasta-Channel-Programmer-Central-Heating/dp/B0DKZ16SYB/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_mod_primary_new? Likely the same plug in connection on the back box.

If you plan on trying to remove the Tiger Seal of the plastic then it'll be a case of mechanical means first like a wood chisel. To soften the pu try acetone, nail polish remover, carb cleaner etc. The best of British!

As recommended by the Welsh Wizard. Hallowed be his name.

Solvent weld. You could use this as it's thicker than the normal "brush in the tin" type stuff. As in if the strap on doesn't quite fit tight around the pipe. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Polypipe-GFC100-FILLING-CEMENT-NATURAL/dp/B009NEC3IQ/ref=asc_df_B009NEC3IQ?

Does Kevin often use words that don't exist then?

Get that 'orrible beam(s) covered up asap I would.

I know we said only one present each but I couldn't resist this to slip into your stocking:

Managed to get your Chrimbo pressie in Lidl earlier today:

When originally solvent welded and leaking you should have used gap filling PVC cement. Now that you've applied Tiger Seal I'd stick with that. It should work if you can find the hole, even if wet. The PU sealants displace water so should be good. As for not being able to see / get around the back, well...fire up the Bambu! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4215459

Do not paint before tiling imo. No need. Just primer with tile primer or SBR as above. I seem to remember, when tanking my bathroom, that the kit came with a white liquid primer. For all the world it looked like standard tile primer. The instructions said if you run out (of primer), use SBR. Ergo tanking primer must basically be SBR.

For example: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5025331