Onoff

"Shed" 😂😉 Still makes me smile.

"Massive shed".

You get used to it! 🤮

Sounds like a parallel of my place. A concrete path all around. Pretty sure the footings bricks/blocks have a gaps in them. Won't know until I have the paths up.

Got a link to the mesh you used?

Cut the boards with an angle either side so they "fit" but there's a gap either side closest to the face of the joists. Ditto where joints butt up. Then spray the gaps lightly with water in a plant sprayer and fill with Illbrück FM330 expanding foam which is about the best you can get and super flexible as well as airtight. Cut the set foam flush and repair the foil faces with silver tape. If you foil over the joist faces too that can act as a vcl. You need ideally a 50mm ventilation gap between the top of the boards and underside of the "roofing felt". Don't block any cross ventilation.

Wet room corner & wall drain!

So that square plastic bit is like a joystick?

How about setting a flanged, grade 316, polished stainless tray into the wall to keep the existing shower controls / shaft lengths? https://www.adelphi.uk.com/product/stainless-steel-trays/

Don't know if this would fit the splined one? https://www.divapor.com/spares/bathrooms/cartridge-adapters/12mm-cartridge-spline-spindle-extender-adapter-20-spline-76mm-to-20-spline-76mm.php?

If you want to ask a question of, refer to, quote etc a certain member, then start their username with @ As in @WalterB They'll then get a notification.

Lawn? 3D print some free draining feet. It'll still likely stain over time with rust "run off". You could periodically wipe the feet with a good dose of ACF-50.

Try some citric acid in near boiling water. Try 19:1 (5%) then 4:1 (20%) powder to water.

It's from the roof vent installation manual. Attached: 672061.pdf

Try some white vinegar. Basically acetic acid but very mild compared to traditional brick cleaning acids.

Unless it's cash 😉

You might be better siliconing a U shape on the rear of the box as in top and sides or if all sides a little gap at the bottom.

https://www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/bills/article-12640683/How-BT-set-pocket-1bn-copper-wire-landlines-switch-digital-phones.html

Someone on another forum asked a similar question. I said black bitumastic paint and they were happy:

Powder coat cracks, water gets in. Galvanise and paint in black bitumen I would. Galvanise and powder coat if you must but no way would I powder coat over plain steel. Is it that you're wanting a particular colour?

Even over internal doorways?

As much as I detest lowering myself to your level I can't resist. A "sleeve" I believe is the answer.

You can get plain plastic boxes or ones with preset hole positions in the back and sides. Usually for 20 or 25mm dia holes. You'll usually find the appropriate hole saw (with the pilot removed) will engage/line up with the presets so as not to slip:

I've a cold water storage tank one end of the house that feeds a downstairs bathroom bath cold and upstairs ensuite basin cold. It runs in 22mm from the cws tank then drops in 15mm to a tee. It runs in 15mm to the basin cold via a ball valve, it runs in 15mm to the bath via a gate valve. Periodically the upstairs basin cold slows to a trickle then stops altogether. To get the basin cold going I have to run the bath cold then shut it off at the gate valve after the tee then open the basin cold. There's a stop end mark X just floating in mid air in the loft. If I put an air release valve there would that alleviate the problem?

Add to the list thermostat and heater controls, appliance handles and controls. Surfaces on doors that people might push other than the handle. WC handles and buttons, taps. I've just nursed SWMBO and No.2 daughter through flu with catching it so far. My hands are cracked through using so much bleachy, Fairy laden water to wipe stuff down.