Onoff

Get some graphite oil spray in there or graphite powder in a puffer.

Pah! Last "big" unit I was involved with replacing was 540 kg, 150' up.

Got adders in my compost pile.

I reckon get two blue MDPE barrels with lids, one smaller than the other. Lay a slab of PIR in the bottom. Place the smaller blue barrel in the bigger one with decent gap around the edges - ideally the gap the same as the insulation slab at the bottom. Fill the small barrel with water. Drill some holes in the outer barrel and fill the gap with expanding foam. Then an axle...a support frame...a hinged hatch... Or something like that.

You can use grey foam pipe insulation slit lengthways if you don't have any foam backer rod. No Nonsense silicone remover works well if you do get any on the bricks. You could...underfill the gap with Illbrück FM330 then silicone over.

Time for the old gloved finger check?

Seriously, you might want to invest in some leak detection dye.

🤭

Every hole's a goal 😉

"foams" is an anagram of sofa...sort of... 😉

Would you screw on a joint like that? (I wouldn't).

I'm thinking a few more plasterboard nails wouldn't go amiss...

This will likely remove the silicone from the bricks. Worked for me when I made a mess:

Sorry but that looks like a quick bodge. Just had my roof done on an 1863 cottage. I'll let picture show the difference. Re-mortared (though probably not lime based as original): I have used buff coloured silicone mind, where my sliding gate posts project from the brick pillars. (This so the gate moving etc doesn't impact the pillar as much as if it were solid mortared). That would have been better than the white your lot used but still not right. This is what I used: https://www.toolstation.com/silicone-825/p93228

Every room's a whine room if my missus is in it.

An L shaped sleeper wall facing the sun forms a lovely heat store. Keeps giving into the evening along with a lovely whiff of creosote. I got this lot free. A mix of new and old sleepers. Used some for my raised veg patch. Thinking to do the same for this area: https://flic.kr/p/2oBUSzU

Not just elevated but inverted! 😂 Here you go. Guessing you'd need to apply for a dropped kerb whatever . Is that raised area "holding back" the house or could it be lowered level with the road / pavement?

https://www.plumbingsuperstore.co.uk/product/floplast-110mm-rainwater-reducer-110mm-x-68mm-sp96-p5820.html https://www.bes.co.uk/universal-rainwater-adaptor-25439/ I just searched "110 to 68mm adapter". I would try and use the same make if rigid plastic, not all "68mm" fittings are equal sort of thing. A rubber adaptor of another make will be more forgiving.

Isn't there a risk of encroaching on the 25, 50mm or whatever gap under the membrane doing that and thus comprising the air flow? (Don't get me wrong I love FM330).

3D print a black, snap on cover.

Aren't both pronouns a little assumptive? You know what these academics are like! "Their" would perhaps me more appropriate... 😉

Unfortunately the whole construction method has loads of non airtight "gaps", PIR against the timber, even timbers ostensibly butted up against each other. It all adds up.

Funnily enough I'm building one using the two motors off the two, 2-post lifts:

Exactly:

How much?