Onoff

Lawn? 3D print some free draining feet. It'll still likely stain over time with rust "run off". You could periodically wipe the feet with a good dose of ACF-50.

Try some citric acid in near boiling water. Try 19:1 (5%) then 4:1 (20%) powder to water.

It's from the roof vent installation manual. Attached: 672061.pdf

Try some white vinegar. Basically acetic acid but very mild compared to traditional brick cleaning acids.

Unless it's cash 😉

You might be better siliconing a U shape on the rear of the box as in top and sides or if all sides a little gap at the bottom.

https://www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/bills/article-12640683/How-BT-set-pocket-1bn-copper-wire-landlines-switch-digital-phones.html

Someone on another forum asked a similar question. I said black bitumastic paint and they were happy:

Powder coat cracks, water gets in. Galvanise and paint in black bitumen I would. Galvanise and powder coat if you must but no way would I powder coat over plain steel. Is it that you're wanting a particular colour?

Even over internal doorways?

As much as I detest lowering myself to your level I can't resist. A "sleeve" I believe is the answer.

You can get plain plastic boxes or ones with preset hole positions in the back and sides. Usually for 20 or 25mm dia holes. You'll usually find the appropriate hole saw (with the pilot removed) will engage/line up with the presets so as not to slip:

I've a cold water storage tank one end of the house that feeds a downstairs bathroom bath cold and upstairs ensuite basin cold. It runs in 22mm from the cws tank then drops in 15mm to a tee. It runs in 15mm to the basin cold via a ball valve, it runs in 15mm to the bath via a gate valve. Periodically the upstairs basin cold slows to a trickle then stops altogether. To get the basin cold going I have to run the bath cold then shut it off at the gate valve after the tee then open the basin cold. There's a stop end mark X just floating in mid air in the loft. If I put an air release valve there would that alleviate the problem?

Add to the list thermostat and heater controls, appliance handles and controls. Surfaces on doors that people might push other than the handle. WC handles and buttons, taps. I've just nursed SWMBO and No.2 daughter through flu with catching it so far. My hands are cracked through using so much bleachy, Fairy laden water to wipe stuff down.

Understood and in that instance I was "lucky". It was more a case I was going on the neighbour's (whom I trusted), recommendation that the guy just needed a break. Conversely I've paid letting agents (a lot) to vet tenants who've come with great jobs and glowing references. They've turned into nightmares.

Slightly askew to the thread but ref "trades". After some bad tenant experience I was going to sell a rental place, I'd just had enough. A neighbour said his mate was desperate for a place but had had a few "issues". Said not interested. This guy turned up out of the blue when I was repairing the front door after an altercation the previous tenant had had. He was bigger than me (I'm 6'5"), covered in tats etc but seemed pretty small and at a low ebb. This guy proceeded tell me he was recently divorced, ex had taken everything, CCJs against him, new girlfriend with baby on the way. No bank account. He was working as a builder but his money went to the MiL who paid his bills. Produced 6 (might have been 12) months advance rent in cash there and then. He was renting for 6/7 years and paid early every month. Kept the house maintained to a phenomenal standard, painting, fencing, repointing & decorating etc. I said one time it wasn't down to him but he was a proud guy and just very grateful I'd taken a chance and helped them out. Only moved out due to having another kid/space.

There's is of course another bonus of making suspended floors in old properties like this airtight. It allows a leaky gas pipe to fill the void up long before you smell it... 💣😂 Another reason to pay close attention to cross ventilation to the outside, underneath whatever you do.

A142 mesh, fibres with removable timber boards at the designated crack lines. Remove and fill later? Unless your wanting a polished concrete floor?

Agree about the shrinkage. What about if you were to deliberately cut the boards under width by say 20mm and foam fill the 10mm gap either side with a high performance, flexible foam such as the aforementioned Illbrück FM330? Would that not allow for shrinkage?

Maybe a badger with a sore head... What I want to find is a WW2 stay behind with a stock of greased up Stens...home defence! 😉

I had to do exactly this for a pit built in the 50s. I was told it was at one time fenced off but that had long since disintegrated. Luckily I knew the line it was on. Clay pipes with a series of manholes down the garden. The exactly "where"was because it was all seriously overgrown with trees and a layer of soil from rotted undergrowth over the years plus ground ivy. There were thorny sloe trees over and around it. Tbh they'd clearly grown up due to all the "nutrients", (I wouldn't eat the sloes though)! The big danger was the fragility of the top cover. It's brick built, circular in shape with a domed brick top cover that has a cement skim. Beehive shape I think they call it. I followed the manholes, started clearing undergrowth and prodding the ground with a metal rod. I found the top cover edge and was able to lay ladders as a safety precaution to bear my weight. I then saw what looked like a dustbin lid I took the lid off and gingerly leant in with the phone. Couldn't gauge the depth exactly with drain rods at they just kept going into "sludge" but about 3m dia from memory. Just because yours is disused doesn't mean it's not full of water (plus whatever) with a fragile top. If no longer used you could collapse the top in and fill with soil. Or pump it out and make a nice man cave or kid's den a la Colin Furze 😂 If you do expose it then restrict access until it's safe. Mines covered in scaffold boards and pallets.

When I make our new post box I'm going to mount a blink camera on the outside, looking in*. Will be in direct line of sight to the router. Anything comes through the post box I'll get an alert on my phone. * CHOON!

Answers on a postcard?

??? No cable required. Just a Quinetic door switch. Doesn't need batteries. Works by magic.....or maybe the charge generated by a piezo electric crystal or something.....

Postman delivers your prescription enlargement cream, / pump, opens the box triggering the Quinetic door switch Door switch signals the receiver. Receiver brings the relay in. Far right set of normally open contacts hold the relay on and other set bring a lamp on. Lamp stays on until you hit the cancel button. Or something like that...