Onoff

It's easy, you just have to wait for his flash front door to open due to an HA set up glitch. The other option is crack a pipe and float up through one of the many holes in the roof! Hi Guy! ?

It would pi$$ me off big time, if a close neighbour, standing on their raised deck could see over a 6' fence and likewise I could see them. Sorry, maybe that's just me.

Valiant /ˈvalɪənt/ Learn to pronounce adjective possessing or showing courage or determination. "He made a valiant effort to hold his anger in check"

I was being sancerre for a change.

If red from each tap would there be a two port valve underneath?

Sorry they're reserved for very "special" people.

Knew a lad once who wrapped his Toyota Hilux suspension in yards of the stuff. Certainly lasted. I use it on hydraulic fittings outside too.

? Love it! It'll protect high tensile bolts outside for years. Mind you'll still be getting it off your hands...

Fair enough, I thought it was your reflection.

Why not just get some Aurora Enlites and get the bezels resprayed to whatever? Simples. They come in white, chrome, brushed etc. Not sure about matt black...gun metal maybe? Oh hang on you want slim fit...don't know ref the slim ones.

I don't actually like them myself, it's more a case of what I grew up on. Go through a Hell of a lot of slim ones at work but that might be just sheer numbers. I prefer "proper" downlights but I'd go with slim ones in future as long as they're easy enough to access and replace. The benefits outweigh anything else in this instance. The slim, flat panel ones do give a superior spread of light / beam angle generally. Tell him back of the queue! I like One Gel, again habit I guess: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WKONEGEL.html

Not just piped gas, generalising but methane from say sewers where you have a broken pipe in a wall, radon maybe getting up via the cavity.....can't think of any others but youll get the gist.

Nom. is understood far and wide as accepted shorthand for nominal. "Loooong" is boll@cks in any language. If you want to write "bc" for because then do it on your phone and don't be lazy. Whatever size of radiator has a BTU rating as in the nominal 12000BTU or 7000BTU I quoted for the two you sized up. I said nominal as different makes will vary slightly. That's the maximum amount of "heat" in simple terms it'll give out to the room if fed with hot water at a certain temperature. You calculated you need 4121BTU for your workshop. For the moment just assume that you're dead on with your calculations. You have a 12000BTU radiator in there. It could be working so well that it heats the room up super quick because it's three times the size it needs to be. Or it could be working at 1/3 of it's efficiency but that's all the well insulated room needs so it seems fine. 10/10 btw on FO.

As someome else is fond of saying, I can't remember that or be arsed looking back. If someone could do that for me please....

Assume there's a pump on the system? Is it working? Not just heating the "first" rooms by convection through the pipework?

If a portable stat, stick it in the coldest room?

I assume your bold figures are your calculated ones? The 1800 x 700 double is rated at nom. 12000 BTU, the 1200x600 double at 7000 BTU. Rads should be killing it and making the rooms toasty IF they're getting to temp and your losses aren't too high. (FO ref the door, you're on your own).

You'd have been better wrapping in Denso tape than painting it! Drilling the hole at a slight angle helps prevent water ingress. Sleeving properly helps prevent against say gas ingress from the cavity and so on. My old man used to work for British Gas and was always banging on about it. I managed btw to drill the 3 holes in brass back plate without breaking any brickwork out. The holes are nice and in line. 3 small Rawlplugs and stainless screws. 20 odd turns of PTFE tape and wind in until vertical, DO NOT TURN BACK! It gets real tight but it just works. @Nickfromwales know best!

10 downlights? You'll hit the problem I did, a lovely vcl punctured to Hell with holes. With hindsight I'd have counter battened the ceiling and use slimline LED fittings. Initially I left cutouts in my PIR: I cut and filled these voids with pir intending to simply lift out from above. A vcl went over the top then moisture resistant plasterboard: At this stage, a nice airtight ceiling detail, I should have counter battened and put another layer of mrpb on. (Leave btw some (known) gaps in the battens to allow for cable push rods should you decide on more lights later). I'd however foil taped the underside of the pir insert pieces and I had to pull up the pir. That left the foil in place ? So I made a template using the downlight hole as a reference and cut down through the foil and vcl. I'm using Thermahoods, aka posh flower pots. I'll end up with a detail like this. I've to seal the edge of the hood down, insulate (foam fill) around the whole lot and over the top. Then to airtight seal the cable entries from above as well as vermin proofing it all. Sound complicated? Too right! All this could have been avoided!

Air in the rads? ?

If you cant beet them...

A pic from way back when I ran the pipe:

FFS she clears a space then fills it up!!! Not that I'm any nearer to digging but that red bit of tape on the floor is over the single pipe CH pipe that crosses the stairs room: If I leave the floor under the bottom landing in situ, I'll need to be bloody careful. A 9" grinder with diamond disc would be good I reckon, but for the mess I could do an L shaped cut and not disturb the bit under the landing. Kango'ing I reckon would just mean that bit under the stairs disintegrates.

Surely you've seen Misery and what happened to James Caan?

A couple of mm apparently. DGAF anymore. Putting him on ignore.