Onoff

Maybe if they're in a jam...

Grafted the infill piece to the Makita battery adapter design I've already done. A couple of pretty renderings: Now printing in clay red PLA. Sods Law the new reel was wider than the holder on the 3D printer so I just made a new one out of a st/st door kick plate and some 20mm pvc conduit & fittings plus a bit of 32mm waste and a bfo stainless washer: I'll update in about 8 hours when it's printed!

Some interesting comments here reference the accuracy of Land Registry maps etc. https://www.kemptoncarr.co.uk/news-and-knowledge/considerations-for-determining-boundary-lines/ There's been a heated argument locally over a fence line just recently that resulted in the Police attending. I don't know the full details but complicated by the fence line having been maybe put in to divert round some then small trees years ago, so following a curve rather that a straight line as on the LR maps, 3' into the neighbour's at it's worst. (We're talking 5 acre plots here where front and rear boundary widths don't match etc). It was resolved by a 3rd party (neighbour) saying "Look, unless you want get a solicitor and surveyor in at X cost you'd be best sorting and agreeing this between you". The result is a new, straight fence. Easier to install and looks better from both sides.

American Express is responsible for my Pamela Stephenson fetish. Griff Rys Jones' voiceover still cracks me up:

There's a recent thread on here about that...

Whoever installed the system and didn't put in a mag filter or certainly inhibitor then they are not good guys! 2004, the original install? Boiler replaced in 2018, I'd have expected a flush and the suggestion of fitting a filter then. I'm no expert (as many on here will attest to btw). To me yours is a "modern" system. Having no inhibitor and a dirty system just increases your fuel bills and raises the chance of an issue / pricey call out. The time to add the filter is when it's drained down. Thereafter it is a doddle to periodically remove the filter and wash away debris the magnet has collected and again a doddle to add inhibitor via the dosing pot. This is atypical of a mag filter on the return leg to the boiler. At it's simplest: With the boiler pump off, the black valve either side isolates it. Once you've done that you let the air out on top via a bleed screw (screwdriver). You then unscrew the long magnet that goes down inside the pot. All the crud that was held in the pot by the magnet now floats loose inside the pot. Hold a jug underneath and unscrew the plug underneath (Allen key). The cruddy water falls into the jug. You can unscrew the lid completely to withdraw a gauze screen that catches any big lumps. At the same time you can add inhibitor.....don't forget to put the plug back in underneath. Once done you open the isolation valves and any air comes out the bleed screw. When you see water tighten it up. Takes less time to do this than it did type! Before a flush you want a cleaner running round in there for a bit to loosen everything up. NB: The black crap that comes out will stain anything! Hands, white sinks etc.

Going on 23 years here our oil boiler. Mind you, it's like Trigger's Broom!

With help from the good folk on here I've just power flushed my system. Beforehand you add a cleaner that loosens everything up. When I then flushed the level of muck that came out was impressive. I've also now added inhibitor and a magnetic filter which you can perioidically inspect (without draining down) as the iron based crud sticks to it. End result is a more efficient, quieter system. Parts of my system are 50+ years old and have never been properly flushed or had any inhibitor in. Lots of horrible goop like this in there: I was lucky that I could borrow a flushing rig as this video shows: This then is even AFTER adding the magnetic filter. You can simply, periodically, remove this bit and wash the collected crud off. (After 50 years etc there's a lot of crud in there). Also my downstairs rads are an antiquated, "single pipe" system which are awkward to flush:

Do you have a magnetic filter like a Magnaclean on the system and do you/have you inspected it? Do you have inhibitors (in the water).

Pity Wago don't do these: [US$1.26 55% OFF]LT-933 Compact Wiring Cable Connector Push-in Conductor Splitter Terminal LED Strip from Lights & Lighting on banggood https://banggood.app.link/WjLrXtmGkeb

Or you're married and spend your time praying for Death or 6 numbers!

Sorry, just realised the bricks are already laid! You can get sabre saw blades that will cut bricks.

Just use a portable earth: I AM ONLY JOKING!

+1 or forever wish you'd done better at school like me!

Evolution Rage 3 with the Evolution diamond blade. Piece of pi$$. I cut loads for my gate pillars.

Got a link?

It's never stopped @pocster!

Admitting it or the laser?

Probably like the switch in that episode of Friends...

Thanks for sharing that.

When we had a water main leak on a run of about 50m. Old iron main. Guy from Southeastern came out. He couldn't find it with whatever gizmo he had. East European lad, saying he shouldn't really do it as his bosses didn't believe in it, he dug out a set of divining rods. Saying he couldn't be sure he pinpointed a maybe about 10' from the actual leak. The leak was under concrete so I guess that might have skewed things. Not bad over 150' imo.

I presume you mean Spax? I presume you mean "many"? ?

Sorry I really don't know. It's a Honeywell V4073A1088 mid position valve if that helps? I'll measure the insulation and see if I can make a more accurate stab at the tank capacity. Thanks.

Sorry, what do you mean what programme? Times? No idea on the second question.

The hot water is on timed. Basically this: I however added 2 2-port valves to zone upstairs and downstairs CH.