Onoff

+1! Do you attack in 2/3 hits or do you just need to be better?

Let's be honest, that counts for a lot.

At a guess @Jeremy Harris has stopped ad hoc consulting for them? ? Weren't the early models "better"?

Depends what you're doing. One trick is to do the joint with CT1 clear, get loads in there then wipe of flush with a baby wipe. Then go over the top (once the CT1 is set) with a silicone of your choice than can be periodically replaced when it gets grubby. I did this where my wall tiles meet the floor tiles. The wall ones were set on 1mm packers. When the tile adhesive had set I pumped clear CT1 in. Wiped off flush and then did a bead of grey Mapei. Yellow 1mm packers: (Tbh, never having tiled I started with the most difficult corner in the room ? my tiling really let the whole job down at the end. Next time I'd use a tile levelling system 100%). For doing any silicone work buy a Cramer Fugi set like this. The only silicone tools you'll need. Other makes that look like them are poor imitations. These are magic and help even an amateur get a good result. I even nailed a couple of bits of MDF together at right angles to have a practice at "siliconing": The Cramer kit is a revelation! The little black clip on bits allow the tool to ride over the grout lines: Never do this, total waste of time using tape to try and get straight lines. When you pull the tape up you lift the edges of the bead slightly and dirt and bacteria can get in: I was so unimpressed with my first attempt at doing the silicone I ripped it all out and did it again. It's useable: Looks pretty good...with the lights off mind! When I get some heating in there it'll be even better! ?

I would expect a surveyor to pick this up when you sell. You could.....trowel on roof mastic to the splits/cracks then go over the lot with an acrylic repair compound. It'll only last for a bit. Ask me how I know! ?

Everbuild Forever White seems to work very well. Also look at C-Tec BT1. Do not use white C-Tec CT1 as it goes yellow.

I visited Peter's house, fantastic it was too. Warm and very well insulated against sound too. Way back he helped me out with some bits for my Geberit WC when I was as green as green doing those things. Incredible attention to detail on his house. The finished article looked like his CAD renderings! The Icynene installers came in a horsebox sized truck with tanks of the two components if I recall correctly. Lots of waste with it. They infill between the joists and leave you to trim it flush with a saw they give you and to bag all the trimmings up. Seems he's changed his username and is in fact on the move. @Gone West is the name he's going by now I think. I too looked for the blog but it seems to have disappeared.

Does spray insulation like Icynene have the same issues? The fact it goes in wet and super sticky, does it not adhere to the surrounding timbers/boards and guard against timber shrinkage/expansion?

Have a look at the Splitters and Wiring up sections here: https://www.aerialsandtv.com/knowledge

You could hire a concrete crusher. Noisy things but do a good job. I don't think @Gone West really had any neighbours to worry about! ?

Good luck. Is your blog now dead? Edit: Does this mean I'll have further to travel for freebies & bargains? ?

I've been restoring some old tools salvaged from a house clearance. After a hot detergent wash then some time in a hot citric acid bath I've etch primed and given the adjustable a quick coat of acrylic: Anyone know where I can get 3 wheels and pins for the Record No.101 pipe cutter? (I just lost one pin). Cheers

I like that! Just make sure the window cleaner puts some sheets down first! Couple of rails down either wall and you could have a travelling gantry. Inside and out! ? That's got to be a move the furniture quarterly and clean off a little ali tower job, no? Water fed pole outside.

I think your toothbrush needs to be at least 2m from the WC pan...

I was several stone lighter then. Ribs like a xylophone.

If those blocks were to "accidentally" fall on the walk on glazing that would at least solve one problem.

Get a bucket of plastic shims maybe? https://www.screwfix.com/p/broadfix-assorted-plastic-shims-medium-200-pcs/80408?

Not if you've made some adapters up! A Porta-Punch hydraulic hole punch is a cracking bit of kit. A lad I worked with had a 110V one. We were punching I beam flanges in a bank and set the basement vault vibration alarms off where it reverberated down through the steel. (We were I add, supposed to be in the bank).

Don't forget that the shed makers can possibly get 10'x5' sheets for a start. Was the roof osb originally? It's timber slats on my hand me down shed and they run up slope. You'll have to graft a strip of OSB on either at the bottom or move the whole sheet down slope (to overhang) and graft on a strip at the top. Wherever, the "graft" will need a full length supporting strip underneath.

Did this with a neighbour mate circa 1991: Concrete with red dye in it and loads of waterproof PVA. I then made a board up with strips to effect the mortar lines. Put slight tapers on the strips. Once "pressed" I dipped a plastic broom head in black dye and "splattered" the whole area by holding the broom head upside down and pulling back on the bristles. Then a half inch paint brush in all the mortar lines turned them very dark due to the black dye. It still looks like this to this day. Retained its colour etc.

They literally trowelled the stuff on and pressed it with a mould to get the pattern. Batted on about special resins. I remember trying to warn him off at the time. Mug! ?

Mate had it done. I was amazed as he always DIYs everything himself. Sadly he's a magnet for con merchant. He was told the imprinting wouldn't crack, could be applied down to 2mm thick, came with a 25 year guarantee etc. It cracked, company disappeared. In his new place the block paving he did himself has been down 20 years and it's pristine.

Less swarf too. You do of course have the diddy roundel that comes out when you're finished. Hopefully it'll pop out and fall to the floor rather than down the leg of your rigger boot! The best hole saws in my ever so humble opinion are Morse brand. Dark red in colour. Used to get them from Wholesale Fittings. They're are cobalt. Knock the Bosch ones into a cocked hat. A genuine Starrett pilot drill is a great thing to have as a general purpose drill bit for most metals including stainless and they are HsCo so cobalt. I agree that they are good. The ones with the points on the end? I've been impressed. (I wouldn't use them in this case though). The most impressive (stupid?) thing I've ever seen is a 7' South African labourer drilling an I section column. I couldn't figure why so much smoke. He was drilling the beam with 10mm Dormer HSS drills in a 110V pistol drill. No pilot, no lube, just muscle...and plenty of drills! However do not skimp on the cutting compound. It does what it says on the tin and makes drilling easier and prolongs the tool life. It's that important imo. However do not skimp on the cutting compound. It does what it says on the tin and makes drilling easier and prolongs the tool life. It's that important imo. ?

20mm Starter cutter and keep dipping it it Trefolex, Temaxol, Rocol RTD etc. A new 1/4" Starrett pilot drill will go straight through 11mm steel no messing. How many holes? I did 42 25mm holes in 5mm stainless: With ONE of these Chinesium bits and this was it at the end. In the pillar drill admittedly:

My brother had his drive paved a few years ago. He also needed a new supply to the garage (to replace the original 1mm micc laid in scaffold poles). The paving contractor was dead against digging a trench when the old drive came up saying "Nah, just lay it directly under the blocks, I can supply you some cable if you want!" The trench was dug but they didn't use a trench whacker to compact the backfill. Drive looked superb except for the sunken line where the trench was!