Onoff

Would this be any good I wonder? https://www.screwfix.com/p/ronseal-wet-rot-wood-hardener-clear-500ml/63540?

In, under and on top...

Well today I was offered... My mates old PV inverter, Sunny Boy, controller and storage battery system, in his words "lead". Apparently all I need is "a panel(s)". He's upgraded his system with something from Growatt and has Li-ion batteries now apparently. Another unfinished project and more tat to store somewhere then!

I'd put a thick membrane between them and any soil bank.

You might need to apply some knotting solution (over any knots) to stop any resin leaking out. Mind you, after 191 years I'm not sure that'll be an issue...

Pitch pine is lovely stuff often when it's old. Slow grown, lovely grain pattern, reddish hue and strong.

Your ring isn't tight enough... If the sticky out bit that the arm slides over is too short you MIGHT get away with a good slug of Jet Blue Plus at the interface. Should the grub screw engage in a groove?

I've one of these: https://lighting365.wordpress.com/tag/andrew-james-powerful-1700w-wall-chaser-with-laser-line-for-increased-accuracy/ & one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/EINHELL-BMF-1300-WALL-CHASER-43-507-10/dp/B000KEP82Q Surprisingly good even though the first one looks like it came from Toys R Us. With a bfo dust extractor I was able to achieve near dustless chasing.

I feel your Jean Pain...

You misunderstand. In the States the contractor soda blasts whatever it may be taking the debris with him which he then sells to the railroad company. It's in the contractors interest to clear up after himself or he's leaving money on the...floor. Be careful stripping your old paint especially with say a hot air gun as the paint could be lead based.

Soda blasting residue is used in the States by the ton to sprinkle along railroad lines to keep the weeds down. The operators in fact buy it from the soda blaster companies. Out there you can easily hire a man in a van (read big truck with a tank on the back) to come and blast your walls, car, oak beams etc. Over here apparently the rail operators aren't interested in buying the residue!

In the depths of my bathroom thread there's some words of wisdom from the Welsh Wizard. From memory he said a lot of rubber washers on traps are generic. His, the method I used, was to ditch the rubber washer. I then filled up the gap with I think white Sikaflex EBT. When tightening though you MUST ensure you compress the trap without turning it which will tend to smear it too thin. Baby wipe it and walk away until set. Now I'd probably use white BT1. @Nickfromwales feel free to jump in! ?

Could you stuff a bit of scrunched up, dry bog roll above that fitting, then run the shower for a bit. This to prove where it's leaking from? Where the drip it should only be hand tight and a bit. A smear of something in there like silicone grease might help.

?I was going to suggest making one. You must post pictures of the finished article. All I can say is mind what fingers you have left. Those bfo slabs are somewhat unforgiving!

Seems to be out of stock everywhere I've looked though...?

...talking of dead weights! ?

Me and a mate had to lay 120 of those 2'x2'x2" slabs once on x3 21 storey tower blocks in the Old Kent Road (Avondale Estate). 40 on each block. The lifts were so small we could only get me and him in the lift, facing each other, with 3 slabs stood vertical on a sack barrow. The lift stopped at either 19 or 20 depending which lift you got. We then had to handball the slabs one or two floors to the roof. It was a job spec'd by the council and they wanted them laid on "2 layers of waxed building paper" on a "sharp sand / cement bed". The problem was it was an asphalt roof. We were extending the paved area on each roof. The rest of the roof was gravel chips on asphalt that had sunk into the asphalt over the years. First we had to use a flame gun on a gas bottle to loosen/scrape the embedded chippings from where the new slabs were to go. Ended up lifting a lot of the existing slabs to get an invisible "join", old to new. Then there were the lengths of 7"x4" RSJ to go to the roof and we had no crane..... ? No wonder my back is bad!

EazyBarra: https://www.xoli.co.uk/product/eazybarra-multi-purpose-wheel-barrow/ This one looks good, see the video: https://www.lawnandpower.co.uk/product/orit-paving-slab-paver-30-1000cm-caddy/

Maybe look into getting the doors caustic stripped? Look for a place local to you. You have to be careful that the process doesn't affect the glue holding the door together. I stripped all the doors and skirting in my first house circa 1865 with a hot air gun and various scrapers. Lead paint no doubt. Could explain why the intervening years are a blur...

Is it worth at least filling some of those joints where mortar is missing? Thinking to improve the air tightness, maybe stop vermin, insects etc entering from the cavity...

Aka "council slabs"!

I had to look that up, thought maybe it was on the IoW ? (Could never get into the books and the films make me want to smash the telly). A workmate had a fair size long garden. He'd lived there 10 or so years. Next door, a similar size plot with no house was completely overgrown with a number of brick built outbuildings and sheds on it. Sitting in his garden one day and he casually let slip he owned that too but had never ventured there or looked in any of the buildings. You have to wonder what makes people tick.

Brick acid like Disclean? Again be bloody careful and wear non absorbent gloves and GOGGLES if not a full face shield. It's not salts leeching out of the stone is it?

Liked that bit of a change mind for David Duchovny after the X-Files...

You can find that with the drill rotating one way constantly it "smooths" out the wire brush. Pays to reverse the drill rotation now and then. Goggles and gloves, goggles and gloves!