Onoff

I wonder if there's an equivalent of the Mrmagic franchise in the US? There seems too, to be many more options for "porcelain spray paint" type products in the US: https://hdsupplysolutions.com/c/porcelain-repair-00-100-40-15 The danger of her DIY ing of course is making it worse. Many of the paints you have to leave to harden for X days also. Did she take a before photo? If that bad maybe "re dirty" it then call the landlord. "Oh look, it's all scratched underneath, that's why it gets so dirty!" ?

This is it now. Just some loose laid pavers against the gate track. It gets mucky and makes the gate stiff to open over this section. I must measure the relative heights; block thickness and track height but I need to sink those block edges down a fraction. Pretty sure even a little extra track height would help keep it clean. I'm thinking the blocks abutting the track can eventually just sit there with no bedding underneath, held in by the ones at the side and the sand between the blocks. Worst case I'll have to raise the track on some st/st packs.

Only just read this after responding to your email! Told you they would say that. Wtf call it FLOW control then? ? One thought...in the event of a failure of ANY concealed mixer it may mean tiles off etc. If you're needing the shower daily, don't have an alternative, have carers coming in etc then a good old surface mount, thermostatic mixer bar might be the way to go instead as easier to sort if a failure. Quick to replace on just a couple of stub pipes coming out the wall. Fix it firmly and it might double as a grab rail. Probably just as likely to bang their head if they slip on concealed or surface.

What some people deem lack of progress! ??? Love the saw, especially the well placed NVR on/off switch... ? Did you bother with any dust extract when cutting the pir? Makes my eyes stream, throat sore etc. Believe it off gasses too when you cut it. I really don't think it's good for you.

Yep, I've always rated it. A reassuringly noxious whiff to it. Just think if I don't want to be in the room sniffing it then the nasties won't either!

Just someone's opinion...spot on imo ? https://www.theguardian.com/culture/2001/dec/19/artsfeatures.lordoftherings

Tried reading LOTR, gave up. Fell asleep just past the opening scenes of the first film. What complete b@l@cks! Give me Warcraft any day. If I wanted to hear people speak funny I'd go to Bristol or Cornwall.

I'll take any attention going at the mo!

Ditto unheated bathrooms.

PM me your email and I'll send it that way. I'm sure though they'll just revert to saying you should be able to turn it a bit and get a little flow but should really be used full on, like you said they already have and that that's what my video shows.

About 50' from where I'm sitting typing this...at home!

&...the manual refers to"flow control":

Really? VID-20210720-WA0021.mp4

Isn't boron only any good for interior timber that won't get wet?

You'd think it a national scandal...

If they're "getting to that age" then fit what YOU like. After all, it'll be you/the carers sitting them in the plastic garden chair hosing them down soon enough! ?

I'd do this ideally, albeit with the guttering further forward to limit overshoot (couldn't be ar5ed redrawing ?). The fascia wants to help support the roof edge and the batten will further stiffen it:

Don't think I put a link up here? Not a Bristan anyway, I used a Hudson Reed Reign. I think @ProDave used the same one. Dead easy to turn imo BUT arthritis is a funny thing, it causes lack of grip, wrist action is hampered etc. (My old man is riddled with poly arthritis). Worse case I reckon it'd be easy enough to print some clip on/off extensions for these handles to give more leverage.

Shouldn't your starting point be the load required at the shed then the cable length? What's your earthing system at the house end? Have you exported the earth? You could perhaps fit a switch fuse off Henley's and take a sub main to the shed... Have you accounted for "discrimination" ? between any upstream and downstream RCDs? Maybe consider a small all RCBO board at the shed? You're welding, at night, and the lights go off! ?

Garo...are you in Ireland?

Tut, tut! It's called selectivity now! ?

I've got my galvanised gate track all bolted down (years ago) to the concrete footing strip and it's fine. Stainless coach bolts in Fischer plugs: The drive is a long way off of being done (paved, gravel etc, tba). "For now" ? I've just a line of pavers either side of the rail. The bottom edges of the blocks however are resting on the bottom flange of the trach and/or coach bolt heads. I could do with notching or chamfering the bottom corners so the blocks sit lower where they meet and closer to, the rail. At the moment the gap fills up with crap. Would a wet tile saw work to cut these as in the one I used for the bathroom tiles? I mean it's a diamond blade etc... This is my one but pretty sure I can borrow one where the blade is on a rise and fall and comes up out of the bed.

What welder? I can recommend this: https://www.weldequip.com/parweld-xts-162.htm My BiL, been welding for 55 years was well impressed when comparing it to his big old oil filled Oxford & Cambridge welders. Burnt bigger rods at less current and smoother to boot.

MDF...my FiL thought it'd be a good idea to make a "shed" from an old greenhouse. First he clad it in MDF. Then he tacked on green mineral felt. Did the floor and roof with MDF too. Abject failure. Think wet cardboard.

It's quite common to have a standard gate with a shaped bottom panel, often mesh of some sort. Mainly to stop pets escaping. I reckon you could figure a mechanism to lift / hinge the infill panel out of the way as the gate opens...