Simplysimon

especially when the hammer hits the hand/fingers

we have render and cladding on a timber frame. was supposed to be larch cladding but we went for fibre cement due to wanting a fireproof exterior.

the joist forming the opening (trimming and trimmer) look to be a size larger than the joists, as they should. this being the case the newel will not be load bearing, but as mentioned previously the joist may flex a bit more though shouldn't as there is no reason/need for that point to be supported as opening correctly formed.

tape needs split at bracket, pushed onto blockwork and more tape added each side to ensure airtight. back of p/board can be cut out to depth of backet if p/board fits tight to wall otherwise use enough fixative to make flush with bracket.

if you start with a 50mm wide board and overlap on top at each side by 20mm each side you will have a 10mm 'gap' between boards. what colour boards are you using? if plain timber then the 50mm backing board could be charred to show as black without maintenance costs, or, as @Russell griffithssays a black fibre cement board behind. you could use the 200mm cladding ripped into smaller strips to put behind the cladding. the cladding will be ventilated at the rear so it doesn't need to have the vertical gaps through to cavity.

go with board on board, no gaps, no issues.

scaffold poles cut to length?

welcome to the forum, go with the alternative, however, the fascia can be retained and covered with pvc and the soffit replaced with pvc. a lot of the water getting in is, i would suggest, along the joint between mortar and fibre cement on the gable. to do the job properly a dry verge will fix it, you can also add a an eaves tray which will get around the felt dropping.

I got that reference the original is better

unless you've seen their house, perhaps don't ask the question. only bits of advice i can give - don't worry about tomorrow. look after your knees and wear sunscreen.

ever so slightly

send them a link to the webpage detailing all info and tell them you're not paying the vat.

is the soil level as per drawing or on a slope? if it's level i'd suggest digging further back and putting gabions in with a french drain in front between them and the cavity wall

Voltaic pile, now battery pile. i can see who's going to 'pile' into this one......

check out ebay and marketplace as well

have they tied it in to either side?

bring in old furniture and bring in, possibly, woodworm.

If OCD kicks in someone can rotate it 90 deg! one of these for door bolt

rebate both striking stiles, will make them slightly narrower. fit 2x concealed door bolts to the slave, intumescent strip to rebate on the master. when you have sign off, do the same to the oak doors and replace the FD30s.

still haven't gone for a specific make of battery tool so have only got a battery gun everything else is 230v. would have been a different story if i was still on site

i find 230v doesn't run out every so often, makita is wired

about the same, i bought as above in 5m from screwfix.

if you want to be really cheap, draw it in publisher, can format the line length to scale, save as a jpeg and then run it through ilovepdf.com and change from jpeg to pdf. simples 🙂

years ago bought a senco collated gun, great! still got it but i don't know how good the batteries are now, haven't started plasterboarding yet. bought a second hand makita from someone i know just in case. definately worth it.

https://www.costco.co.uk/search?searchOption=uk-search-all&text=pv&sort=price-desc