SuperJohnG

I didn't add solar panels at the time as I had lots going on and I regret it. It'll never be cheaper than now, do it.

It'll be the 5kW x the COP for that temp won't it? So pessimistically says its 2.5 that'll be around 1.5hrs?

I don't mind ebay, but I would like local new unit. Unfortunately we are in the minority. What are you DHW reheat times?

For sure

I need to buy and install an ASHP to do my UFH and DHW in the next 4 weeks. Single zone, high level of airtightness (0.8) and lelevs in insulation. I had my mind set of coolenergy unit, but the return to base warranty has put me off, its madness to think I need to take it off a resend it a unit at 100kg. I'm currently looking at a valliant unit (Arotherm plus) but massively struggling with valliant selecting the unit which they said someone would come back to me in 5 days but valliant is now saying an installer will select the unit and give the price .its been over 2 weeks and no contact from a supplier/installer. City plumbing have given me a price for a 17 kW Grant Aerona unit, which I told them was oversized and then gave them the SAP calcs and they have now quoted a 6 kW unit (with strong recommendations UFH on the gf only wouldnt work - even though the SAP calcs show it) which I think is likely OK for the UFH but I'd like a slightly bigger unit for the DHW for the recharge times. It's clear city plumbing renewable team don't understand near passive houses. So likely I'll need to select the unit and manufacturer myself so what criteria shall I stick on my excel sheet? 1) Price 2) SCOP 3) Warranty 4) minimum size required? Based on UFH requirements and DHW reheat times. How do you check the reheat times? 5) what else? I have an installer lined up who is valliant approved to get the warranty but they have no preference on the manufacturer really.

On walls between rooms and toilets O used sounbloc 15 mil on 90mm studs with 50 mil acoustic roll from superglass

Yep

I couldn't as you need to add a solvent weld fitting to turn into a ring seal run. You could get lower if you bring a ring seal pipe through levelling the slab or wrap something around the 110mm pipe so you can fit a coupling around once it's cured. I did have a ground floor shower and I didn't want a plinth so I put an EPS block around the 110mm pipe creating a void which I then dug out.

I've got a kore insulated foundation. I just popped 110mm pipes up where I needed them. You can then run kitchen wastes or toilets into them. You get 110mm to 40mm reducers and solvent weld boss adapters. Like picture as shown.

It's very late but PWS do these and kitchens but the whole thing is a bit of a faff. But their wardrobes and doors are regarded as excellent

Another with a SIP build here as @LA3222 said use screws. You dont need the glue.

Bum gun. Every toilet in Asia, You've just reminded me I meant to add that. Doh

It does make sense buying the RAK ones. I don't want rimless though but RAK do have lots of other options. I was slightly concerned that the toilet seat on the RAK would be ....well...shit.

It's now 450 quid for a starck 3 and soft close toilet seat....I need 3. Am I mad?

Yes if you have a ventilated cavity you need to buy the correct intumescent straps. Sig (in eurocentral) sell them, they ate tenmat and expensive- but they are the right thing. Firestops in the form of wood around windows is fine. Ensure you cut the battens above the windows short so the air can get it.

On the 27th of March, we are getting 130sqm of Amtico, blackened spa wood, laid. As above 2-3mm latex screed, then its stick down. It feels nice on the feet and is essentially very hard wearing. I stick down 2sqm in my porch ( thread on here) a few years back. Great stuff and will last 20-30 years.

I reviewed this year's ago when I had time....Tikkurila. it will be expensive but it'll be a looong time before you paint it again.

If its HGVs do it properly, 400mm thick with the roll of plastic grid you get (for the life of me can't mind the name) A few bulker loads of type 1 and you'll be sorted. I have so far put over 1000t of stone in my plot.

I've got 10m x 6m shed built in December. Murray steel buildings did it...done a great job. A friend did the road and poured the slab. Mine is the uninsulated version, it's got an anti condensation lining on the roof panels. Works well and I love it. Less than 4m apex height and 30m2 you don't need planning in Scotland. Mine is less than 4m apex...but the area might be over 30m2......

What about window cills? Do the length certainly, closest you'll get to the thickness albeit I don't know how thick you can get it.

I have just asked my joiners to make shelves for our pantry and all our cupboards. They were 18mm MDF strapped with 2x1" dressed pine. They will support a load no issues. MDF nowhere near as strong as 18mm ply. 44mm thick seems awfully thick I didn't take a finished pic tonight but here they are mid process

It will be off, so just the ASHP to heat the UVC. Thanks

Crossed over thanks. That's how I thought. Do you use a direct or indirect buffer?

The one at the manifold, it's got the UFH pump on it and a blending set so the floor can never go too high. Thanks. What about the heating season though? I assume you'll only have the heat time for the buffer that first time if your heating goes on very low during the heating season? Thanks. I don't specifically want a stat in the buffer, I wad just trying to figure out what I needed. The only thing I was trying to avoid was the buffer being kept at temp when there is no heat demand from the room stat. I.e. out of heating season. However I might be worrying about nothing. The energy might be very low for keeping the buffer warm? If I use a buffer ( to avoid short cycling - even though i might not need it) Do you put a buffer stat and a room stat and then the buffer just turns on the ASHP as and when it needs topped up? What's the norm?

Just based on reading here, albeit I am currently doing more reading and it would seem maybe I don't need a buffer. I'll have about a 70l volume.