SuperJohnG

Below it is fine, its just type 1 then concrete sand which from above seems to be the best option. I'm doing it all (with the help from my groundworks guys). As an update - I'm just trying to boy some thin walled tube we will use. Seems not to expensive to buy 6m lengths sit this down then screed over them.

@tonyshouse using sand blinding seems to be the norm - I've no idea how you'd do it otherwise. My DPM is placed on top of the sand blinding layer and then EPS on top of that. I can't tell if you are saying that's the wrong way. Its a detail by the SE and the insulation supplier which seems right to me. My sand is sitting out n the wet just now - we hand planned to try and screed the full 6m width, but seems this might be a mistake. Did you just screed the sand or did you then compact it down? (I thought it was compacted but now thinking about it, wouldn't make sense). I was worried I'd have to get it covered straight away, but that good to hear. I was worried the rain would mess with it and the wind. Can you walk on it after it's down? it would be better to leave it as then I can put DPM down the day I am going to lay the profiles. Thanks - seems easier, were these compacted? I have type 1. Type was specced, but checked with Tanners and they said I could use type 1. I can't see anyway the sand can pass own through especially after we have compacted down the type 1.

Ahhh. I'm right at this point...its now getting ridiculous @LA3222 that everything I Google search on here its you thats asked the question. I've just bought concrete sand (which seems to be sharp sand). I'd seen you just put shuttering in the sand I think. What have others done to screed it flat?. The groundworks boys were thinking I should get some steel poles and then we can lay either side set a high with laser then screed it right across to get it as level as possible. Overkill? (I did tell them I wanted it really flat....

Right enough for sure. I dont actually recall anyone ever telling me it, but seemed to know. I grew up rurally so we had a septic tank.

I find this crazy. Nobody anywhere regardless of mains or TP should be flushing sanitary products down the toilet, nor wipes (flushable wipes only mean flushable most do not degrade properly!) and corron buds. As said above...only if its eaten does it go down there. Last year I fished a 250mm diameter ball of sanitary towels compacted with sh$t from the drain at my rental property while the tennant looked on....he could see I was not best impressed and im pretty sure he passed the message on to his missus what shouldn't be happening. There is no shame in a cycle and it should not be treated that way.

Following with interest...I have 950sqm. Need to check what i put in my budget as these figures sound a little better I think.

Yes. Its just a land drain around the full perimeter of the house footprint, its required in my foundation systems drawings that there is a perimeter (french) drain minimum 500mm outside the edge if my insulated foundation. The footprint is now essentially an island. It just ensures and water can free drain and there's no possibility of frost heave.

@LA3222 thanks and I had been thinking about it. Did you just order some foam online? I've been looking at my rebates for the levels thresholds this week, I had planned to build shuttering boxes, but just realised I'd be much easier just buying some extra EPS sheets and sticking them on the void I wanted. Seems much easier to do. Did you have any voids/ rebates?

thanks @joe90

Just opening this back up - Wunda delivered me a bunch of staples that go with the gun however I didn't buy the gun. Is it worth getting it? (100 plus VAT I think). They said theyll send me the thumb staples...but I imagine that'll I'll have a really sore thumb after laying 1km of pipe....

I have 11 loops, but 9 are 100m coils anyways so works out. so only two really to check at the end. For pressurising - have you done this by air / water? what the easiest way to connect up air to the manifold? would seem to be a pain either way.

This is exactly what I'm doing right now....I have 110mm twinwall land drain which I've just laid and added tees where the downpipes will drop in later on and then the whole lot discharges onto the burn. Few pics....and also the swimming pool at one end of my foundations (which no longer exists thanks to the drains. )

@Nickfromwales they are (i received them the other day.) And I was thinking the same...also in reality I'm the only one laying them. So I might fit them all. Then leave them capped and fit the manifold once all laid so hopefully o should be able to tell them are all OK. I also bought the pressure gauge so will likely pressurise to check prior to concrete pour.

Good question @eandg following this with interest. I think it'll be around a mix of tapes and compriband type solutions. I have the ASHP and MVHR to punch through the wall along with a WBS direct air feed. For all the electrics and cables I have a load of ducts coming out through the insulated foundation.

The ecology part to set up the mortgage deed should be cheaper. I think I was 600 for this part using my solicitor. Although my solicitor had the fear of the unknown at the start with it and thought it was going to be really complex, but it wasn't. As long as you manage the process and agree a rate ot should be cheaper. But I'd second the above you don't want a random you can't talk to messing it up.

brilliant thanks. Scared to death of putting it in the ring beam first as per the other horror story where it all floated up! but a good method nontheless.

Thanks Peter but unfortunately different stuff. This is gap fuller which seems so be high expansion. It seems to be hard to find a trade box of low expansion foam.

Thanks - just can't seem to find a trade pack of this? all the other types but not this.

Thanks @LA3222 I keep looking to buy a trade pack (as per previosu advice) of the soudal low expansion foam but just cant seem to find it quickly on a google search - even struggling to see just soudal low expansion foam, lots of other types from them but not that, albeit it mentions it specifically on there website. My walls are also 20m long (I only have 6m width on main house) so good info at this stage! Need to add an insulation saw to my list! this is helpful for sure, as dead flat is my aim, not so bothered about dead smooth as it's not the finished floor. The water is a good wee bit of info - I'll make sure it is as dry as can be!

Thanks @Russell griffiths think I'll just go with C35 then, maybe need to think more whether to use self compacting for it. @willbish that's a great video, very helpful and looks like it was pretty chilled at the end. Weather like that would be nice!

Its specified as C25/C30 (not clear probably from above). What's the deal with creamier finish? Is that better? I'm having LVT which is only 4mm thick with 2mm adhesive so not much to it. I do have 8mm spare if I really need it at door thresholds to do a latex screed if required but was hoping to avoid it. I've set the rebates in the slab so I can lift the sliders up after I know what the slab surface looks like. Is this just for ease peter? Think its a better finish? Also can you just choose whatever grade of concrete but to be self compacting?. I was worried about it floating everything if I have self compacting but seems to be that was just because it went in the ring beams first?. I dont have a DPM in the formwork so it was coming concerning me.

We have cut level now, so stoning up today then surveyor tomorrow to set out profile boards and then cut drainage and ducts in. Hoping to have the profiles down and all sorted by early next week. You'll likely see a flurry of questions come your way. ? Did you line up the profiles get it all right then take them out 1 by 1 and spray the soudal low extension foam between all mating faces?

Ahhhhh....here I am searching for the same answers you asked a year ago @LA3222. ???. Did you end up ok in the end? What mix did you use by the way? Hoping to do this next week!

Due to do this next week and my groundworks guy had mentioned self levelling concrete today, but I knew I had read a bad story. He was actually mentioning that to make it easier to get flat, I thought we could power float it but he seems to think that would help? I have my DPM laid under the full EPS system hence I will not have on in the formwork to help. Hence should I just stick to C25/C30 as normal (thr groundworks guy seems to think this was quite weak too...normally they always used c35) albeit...some people just go with what they know. Any input appreciated.

???. @LA3222 I'm starting to wonder if you're Scottish.