joe90

My vortex had a flat base so no concrete underneath it, backfilled with dry concrete mix because of a high water table, (filled with water when backfilling to create equal pressure) sampling chamber included, dead easy to adjust air flow to match usage,

Ah, sorry mate I can’t, I have (had) to move since I finished my build 🥲. The ASHP was set to 48’ for floor buffer and DHW and the manifold set to 25’. All I can say is the floor (tiles or wood) never felt warm but never felt cold and kept the house at a steady 20 -21’.

+1, some people laughed at my quotes because they were like war and peace but I hate ambiguity and I never had a problem with customers misunderstanding what was included In the price.

The UFH temp is controlled by a blending valve on the manifold not the output from the ASHP and yes a lower temp. Mine was set to 25’. I prefer stuck down flooring and hate hollow sounding click lock.

No you may not know till holes are dug on site, mine was high so had to backfill with dry ish concrete. Pretty standard procedure.

Great, that confirms my suspicion, you are right, bad design and short membrane which I believe can be cured with proper capping. Not a good design by your architect !!!!

Sorry, missed that, difficult to see from that, but does the waterproofing under the sedum extend up the wall to be under the new capping?

Can you take a photo of the wall with a little of that plastic removed so we can see what’s underneath it?

It depends on the wording on their quote, if they presumed you would supply the lifting that’s an error on their part, however what’s the cost to you if they walked off site and you had to find another team to do the work. What’s the extra cost of labour vs hiring mechanical lifting gear ? If your satisfied with their work you may have to suck it up.

The only problem with using black or grey pipe underground is it’s not as thick walled so in theory could crush if loaded a lot, personally I would use either and surround it in concrete (or not 🤷‍♂️)

Or just the diaphram which can be diy,ed on most pumps.

I used 180 flexible ducting then wrapped it in rockwall insulation to stop condensation from cold air in the incoming pipe in a warm loft.

Yes my builder used liquid screed as it was cheaper than paying his guys to lay sand and cement screed.

Lack of planning IMO, nobody decides a sink position has to line up,with a drain 🤷‍♂️ much better (in a new build) is to bring the drain into the house and not have scabby pipes showing at all.

I bought through these guys, very helpfull https://www.wte-ltd.co.uk/sewage_treatment_options.html

I installed a Vortex and very pleased with it, even the air pump can be mended, the air pump diaphrams can wear out but I bought spares and easy to replace yourself. 🤷‍♂️

Liquid quick pour.

Yes, sound iffy to me, you just have to meet the spec required for a new instal (plus I would not have a biodisc as it has moving parts in the smelly stuff, air pump systems are far better IMO).

Mine was about 70mm, no cracks in doorways or anywhere else.

The only time I stacked them on edge was when transporting them in my van, I had a crude devise to hold them upright but it failed once, going around a roundabout they fell over knocking the side window out into the road (it didn’t break ) but the lorry following me drove over it (yes it did break 🤷‍♂️ ). I made a better devise to hold them upright after that. (On site I always lain them down flat).

Bonkers, they could have stipulated it looked like a conversion but benefitted from being a new build. My new build looked like an old cottage just by incorporating certain features.

How so?

But that depends on how the electricity is generated surely?

However burning gas uses 4 times as much oxygen than the gas content so yes more testing is required .

Isn’t through the wall fixings a cold bridge? I suppose it depends on wall construction, I would have thought resin anchors into a block wall sufficient (unless they are thermalights which I hate!)