joe90

The indication of starting is usually digging the foundations but during a planning fight I had for my build established that any demolition also counted so do you need to demolish anything?, can you dig some foundations. Take pictures of any work with digital dates if possible in case you need proof.

So if you insulate the whole loft (warm roof) you have no cold surfaces for the moisture to condense on but still provide a little extraction as it’s the top of the house. In my build along passive lines I had a warm roof and no ventilation and no mould at all up there.

I had a water leak in my incoming pipe, the water board came and used a listening rod to find the leak which was in the middle of my lawn, they did a temp join fir me and no charge at all despite the leak being on my land. To top it all the water board estimated my usage and deducted what I had lost 👍 (Bristol water). They did say if it happens again because I don’t replace the pipe they will charge next time.

Yes although I used concrete beams I used one per leaf so NO cold bridge

I used the local authority BI and he was great but It’s potluck, no consistency with others I have used.

Funnily on tv recently was an article on weaving with horse hair and they used (bigger) versions of that to de tangle the horse hair like a comb 🤷‍♂️

Yes there is a condition on flammable surfaces next to a boundary, know this because of my “log cabin” type garage.

Ambiguous!

I think it depends on what you use the loft space for, storage? Leave it, office etc, plasterboard and scim.

Depends if the plasterer polished to a sheen (like the automotive) or not, if polished too much the rollers slide rather than roll to leave paint on the surface so if it’s polished, sand it.

This sound typical of a bad loft conversion with no understanding of building practice. If it were me (and it’s what you want to do) I would put PIR between rafters as you suggest with an air gap above then additional PIR under the rafters for the whole loft, this will give you better insulation for the whole space.

With a neighbour like that I would want to build a wall,!! He got retrospective planning permission anyway. Who is he to decide it’s out of character. My only concern would be wall height next to a drive (visibility). I guess no Christmas cards eh?

Welcome to THE build forum, wow that sounds big and impressive. We like photos and plans to help you with decision making. This forum is full of people who have done it so will give real fact based advise.

🤣 cheap shit.

On my build they used hooks for the same reasons above, frankly you can’t see them anyway and I like the fact slates can be replaced much more easily if required.

I guess you need to find the spec from the supplier! I was lucky and installed a big slipper bath, the BCO spotted it and said “if I make you change that you will put this one back in after I have gone “. So true and he signed it off 👍

Great minds think alike 🤣

I suppose the issue may be how you finish the bit of floor on the outside of the ally and vertical surface of the glulam? I think caulking the flooring to the ally will look messy and cleaner leaving it where it is. Go overboard and get 100mm x100mm 5 mm steel plates cut and inserted under the fixings after cutting out the foam underlay 🤷‍♂️it’s all peace of mind with what you decide 😎

If I may, to put this thread in context the balustrade is supplied “fit for purpose” and so must have been tested to be able to sell it on the market. I agree with additional washers under bolts/screws (because I am OCD) The only issue is fixing it to timber and mitigating any “rocking”. I believe the consensus here is long (150mm +) screws will suffice the pull out requirement. The decision to be made by @Thorfun is how to stop possible rocking on the 5mm underlay which could be by replacing the foam around fixings with 5mm solid material. (I would go 100mm wide) I am still of the opinion that the 14mm hardwood topped flooring will spread the rotational force by much more than the width of the ally profile making it stable. As we have read many times BCO,s are not consistent ( luckily mine was very pragmatic) and if after fitting/sign off they insist on calcs/testing then do it retrospectively otherwise it will never get fitted 🤷‍♂️

I still find it incredible that manufacturers can test their own product without 3rd party authentication to prove compliance.

Or belt and braces 5mm steel or ally But the crushing effect is on the hardwood layer spread over a greater area by the ply underneath.

I picked up on Gus,s point re fixing to timber. “so you need more timber say which shortens the effective distance between the bolt and counteracting force at the edge of the track” this will be the hardwood flooring which extends either side of the ally track and much harder (less crushing) that the glulam (softwood).

However if you leave the bath water to cool down it will help heat the bathroom 🤷‍♂️

I would guess that any spark is good, perhaps reassemble and try it out now you have serviced it.

I don’t think so and would be a nice experiment (shame you have sooo much else to do !).