joe90

There is also “farmers lung” breathing in mold from hay etc leading to fibrosis and is not curable.

I ran hot and cold feeds to basins and toilets in 10mm, hot water got there faster and pressure/flow is fine (not kitchen tap).

However with plastic, long flowing bends (where possible) and fittings only at the end)much less friction than copper with many 90’ bends and t junctions. I once replaced a tortuous route in copper to a customers shower that was pathetic with a plan to include a pump, when the pipe was replaced the pump was not required as the pressure/flow was miles better (and hep2o inserts are slim stainless not chunky plastic).

Just because your neighbours did a shit job should not preclude you from doing a good job. Give examples of clean crisp render you want to use. (If you still want render).

Welcome, you will find various threads exist on these individual subjects and various opinions. Have you read previous threads.?

+1 👍

I find it amazing how many people use ptfe tape on threads that have nothing to do with water tightness.

However, as demolition is not allowed any works done will be a compromise so I guess the OP has to decide how to proceed and decide between insulation vs aesthetics.

Why 🤷‍♂️ it’s not listed (is it?) so why not, planners tried to tell me to render my build (common around me then) but I refused and proved a local large farmhouse near me was built in brick like I wanted (I won 🖕).

However, ground temps tend to be above air temps ( @SteamyTea will load a spreadsheet shortly) and I would prefer a cold bridge to floor than roof.🤷‍♂️).

Those internal arches are cool and a lovely feature. Being a devils advocate, if your worried about cold bridges then create a warm roof above and clad externally with EWI, there are some “fake” (composite) timbers out there which look good and won’t rot like wood. As there is not the pressure internally from a million gallons of water could you not cut off the two most lower steps? it looks like you have successfully cut into the structure in places. Just saying.

Can’t remember exactly but about 3m

That is what I thought, timber framed internally and insulated just for the habited bit (not necessary for the garage I guess) , brick skin outside just to hide the ugly concrete.

But there is no cavity 🤷‍♂️

I know someone who bought a ground floor flat with wood flooring but when she went to sell it was told hard wood flooring was not allowed and had to take out indemnity insurance in case the new owner was made to change back to carpet. (Note the upstairs flat also had hard flooring and was very noisy, but she didn’t know about the carpet clause).

I did the base myself (with younger help!,!) as I could not get anyone to even quote for it. 6” slab with steel mesh on an already compacted sub base. Well I would not call this a “shed” the locks and door are “house grade” and a simple alarm would be an easy fit. The walls are so solid, not like cladding nailed onto a frame. Frankly it was such good value for money it was a no brainier for me.

One will be along shortly 🤣

Do they mean building regulations or planning? Do you have it It in writing? If so forward it to the council (planning or building regulations) they are the ones who will have granted planning and building regs.

I would question this with your supplier thats it’s up to spec if only 12mm. (is this your landing? Did you finalise the options on fixing etc)

I recently built this, timber is 44mm thick and very good quality, it was cheaper than 19mm others on offer, came on one big pallet unloaded by forklift on the back of the lorry. Plus it looks nice and I get lots of comments from passers by. ( I didn’t want their timber garage doors and sourced my own and they deducted the cost of the doors). https://www.quick-garden.co.uk/single-wooden-garage-3-2m-x-5-2m-11x17-ft-44-mm.html?utm_source=

Ah, it’s working now!!, overheating? The additional socket i have never used (installed by the previous owner) and I have not used it before but as I recently had a bad chest infection thought I would rig it up, so could the extra load of the vaccuum cause a fault? I have been working it hard this morning ripping timber into usable pieces.

Just using my table saw (soft start with no volt switching) and it packed up, will run if I hold the on button in but will not hold itself. It was modified with an extra mains socket to run a vacuum for dust removal. Any ideas please chaps 🤷‍♂️

My point about suing is it wont bring the person back and the only financial reason I can see is compensation for lack of earnings for a dependant. When my late wife died of cancer there was a suggestion that it was not spotted early enough but money would have been no compensation for my kids loosing their mum!

The only disappointment with my build was noise between floors with a single skin of board and sound insulation, wish I had resilient bars. But surely there are noise regs regarding flats 🤷‍♂️

I don’t get this idea of suing (unless it was negligence, ) the dangers of asbestos were not known initially and only contribute to 4% of lung cancers. Smoking contributes to 27% of cancers and alcohol is a known poison, I think he was lucky to make his late 70s.