joe90

In the past I have actually screwed threaded rod into wood effectively but feel proper designed long screws have been designed for that specifically.

+1 Which must be tested and sold as fit fir purpose But I still recon the hardwood flooring will widen the footprint of rotation greatly to become negligible when fastened down.

I agree and in my situation I welcomed the surveyor, was positive about what they were doing and convinced them I was positive about protecting the bats 🤣🤣🤣. Get them on side rather than challenging them (even if you don’t believe it).

I agree that steel washers are a good idea above soft aluminium, however, the system must be tested to be fit for purpose. I still say engineered ply above the underlay will spread the load over a much greater surface so think it will be fine. Still if the engineered timber can be lifted a section of the foam where the bolts are could be replaced with 5mm aluminium/steel/ hardwood.

Well done 👍glad it’s being sorted.

Will you need UFH with all that insulation? Whilst the floor is up you could double the size of that radiator easily (cheaply) and/or run pipes to fit a plinth heater in your kitchen. As @JohnMo says UFH requires way more kit to be installed.

I don’t see why, if it currently takes that much energy to heat a house as you want it (practically not theoretically) then that is the energy the house requires surely.?

Having installed a heat pump in a new build that was built to passive esk levels I can say that IMO they work well BUT they are a different animal to boilers and work differently. Boilers produce high levels of heat and can heat a space quickly, heat pumps heat slowly and at low levels. You also need a large hot water tank to store the DHW. We have had quite a few threads about unsatisfactorily working heat pumps and I believe good design is paramount and the reason some don’t work well. Heat pumps work well with UFH but high levels of insulation are very important. You will also save the standing charge on the gas connection (if you get it disconnected).

I would agree as that takes into account your living style, local weather etc. there was a (very clever) chap on here a while ago that modelled his new house but the location meant he needed cooling in the summer which was not predicted.

Ha, mine was a tin roof but the buggers still lived there 🤷‍♂️

Yup, been there done that, put my build back 18 months and cost money, we were surrounded by woods that was full of them!!! Council even tried to make me put bat boxes IN the house despite the ecology expert agreeing that building bat boxes in my workshop was sufficient for the site, luckily I went to appeal (fir the planning permission) and they over ruled the council on that point.

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Ah those photos came to me late. IMO (others may disagree) 5mm foam under engineered flooring won’t cause a problem because the engineered flooring will spread the load far more than that ally profile would, 200mm screws into the glulam with steel washers will be suffice. Am I qualified as an SE, NO, but years of practical knowledge and a tendency to over engineer has stood me in good stead. I would be interested in other opinions.

No the engineered flooring won’t crush but the thin underlay (foam?) will slightly and I bet it’s about 2 or 3 mm only 🤷‍♂️ No 🤣 how do you get the screw through that upper web, does it have a hole to give access to the bottom ? Ah, you said “yes” to holes….

I get that completely so i guess it’s all down to payback timing, how much you want to invest and the time it will take to pay it off which will be linked to your consumption. I am sure there are people here that will help you design it.

These are usually very thin, how thick is yours? Frankly m12 coach screws every 300mm will crush that IMO and the engineered boards will spread the load even further. i take @saveasteading ,s point about heads pulling through the aluminium so steel washers would be good, as big as possible, penny washers and cut down width wise to fit in the space. (what I don’t get from the pics above it shows the bolt heads below an aluminium web so does this have holes to enable bolts to be fitted to the bottom rail? )

Threaded rod right through the glulam 🤣🤣🤣🤣 (I said I was OCD) 🤷‍♂️

Others here are better at condensation mitigation so hopefully some else will give you guidance.

Interesting that they don’t show a fixing to timber in the blurb! Timber will have a little more give than steel or concrete so I would go overboard with depth, (peace of mind) m12 even better 🤷‍♂️

Right, if it were me (being OCD) I would use https://www.toolstation.com/exterior-coach-screw/p13122 which are 150mm, or even longer, https://www.fastbuildsupplies.co.uk/27182-m10-x-200-hex-head-coach-screw-bz you might as well go as deep as possible, lots of leverage IMO.

Frankly how will they know? Do your best and keep stumm. 🥷

@Thorfun what’s the makeup of the wall you’re fixing too ?,(depth of timber, insulation?’ some timberlok screws only have threads at the end, you need thread the whole depth of the wood IMO to give max security, also how much room in the channel do you have after the glass is fixed?

I think you don’t need planning (but will need building regs) and build it under permitted development, anyone?

Surely this is PD and the ridge height restricted to existing ridge on the main house 🤷‍♂️

The problem with vaulted ceilings is their lack of lateral support ( spread of side wall due to no ceilings joists) but certainly doable with an SE,s input I guess. Yes your roof slope will be less but as long as it meets the minimum slope of the tiles used it should be fine. I don’t see why? You will be retaining the wall next to the neighbour or replacing it and going no higher so no loss of light or more visual for next door 🤷‍♂️