joe90

I think this would need glueing as UFH pipes are just below the surface 🤷‍♂️. However, if engineered oak (or another wood) flooring is glued down the extra ply would not be needed surely and would bond it all together and make the floor stiffer.

@Lesley72, can you feel any bounce in the floor? If not I would suggest the bounce is minimal and may even be within limits as @saveasteading posted earlier. I also think 4ft tiles on a wooden floor is pushing your luck. Best of luck removing the tiles, let us know how you get on 👍

Movements in the substrate can cause cracks to form in your new tiled surface. Old or damaged substrates, such as wooden floors can be particularly prone to this problem. The installation of anti-crack matting, or decoupling membrane as it is also known as, ensures small cracks in the substrate are absorbed by the matting, in effect the tiles are decoupled from the floor and cannot be damaged. The mats are easy to fit and provide added peace of mind for your tiling installation. This from the internet so I guess the tiles can come up without damaging the floor (but ask your tiler). I still think hardwood flooring would be best at absorbing any movement, however it’s caused. I have laid LVT and can’t imagine it would crack like tiles.

However, it just may be the floor has too much flex for large format tiles. What about wood flooring, I used oak faced engineered flooring in my lounge glued down and it looked great.

https://omnie.co.uk/torfloor2/#:~:text=The original and market leading,fixing the panels to joists. The OMNIE TorFloor 2® Underfloor Heating system can be used on joist centres up to 600mm with no compromise on the integrity of the floor deck. However So not 4x2 🤷‍♂️

But what depth? And if routed then structurally weakened 🤷‍♂️, as @Dave Jones says

Well I am guessing but your DPC should be where the render finishes, so in that case the lower section is below the DPC and may well be sucking damp up. Where is the damp showing inside?

+1 Also +1 but maybe not consciously, I think many here have suffered from planning delays, which may just be underfunding. I think planning departments need change to meet current demands more appropriately (my LPA were told they were not abiding by their own policies when I took them to appeal and won, but cost me money and about 18 months delay with no recompense!).

https://www.temu.com/ul/kuiper/un9.html?subj=goods-un

Agreed, sounds like youre path is above the damp course if the wet is entering the house 🤷‍♂️

for 150mm cavity…. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Stainless-Steel-Housing-Type-4-Cavity-Wall-Tie-250mm-101-125mm---Pack-of-50/p/263631?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwzN-vBhAkEiwAYiO7oDKQ4uQf84JBkQLArRQUChf3VZT2FmNyO91GhmH9wFRYv6DutBiTVBoCe20QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

My builder supplied longer stainless wall ties.

I full filled my 200mm cavity with Dritherm, two layers of 100mm batts.

Question @ProDave, how long would it take to remove motor, remove bearings and measure them with a vernier, then put bearings back in and re fit ? A few hours 🤷‍♂️Then find supplier for new ones (I have used simply bearings in the past for various replacements).

Gosh you have not had it very long (IMO), as you want to stay there (I presume) buying a new motor and servicing the existing one as a spare sounds like a plan.

How far🤷‍♂️, you could raise the level of this low lying ground but that will require tons of stone,soil, labour and the water will still need to go somewhere, get a quote for a mini digger (and driver if you don’t fancy doing it. ) IMO yes.

Do you have land lower than this? How far away is it? A pump would do it but the cost + running cost + maintenance 🤷‍♂️ cheaper to hire a mini digger and no ongoing costs.

Welcome to THE building forum (including renovations) bring on the questions (and we like pics).

I installed my own, i simply put it on the planning drawings, no questions asked.

I did this, I had a main contractor as well and told them I am working with him so they gave me the same % discount as he got (but still searched the internet for some stuff).

Now that makes sense to do it yourself. I too installed my own.

Oh yes, you can’t cure stupid…..

I agree, I have done GRP roofing, it’s not hard to get right.

I too use a dehumidifier rather than a tumble drier in a small bathroom and it works well.