joe90

In reality there’s a difference between “biomass” and burning your own scrap sand coppiced wood (in a rural environment).

The woodburner I installed in my build was like this and I never smelt smoke outside and a clear plume from the chimney. You get what you paid for.

Well my car defrosts (one side) when the sun is shining on it (not saying it improves an ASHP,s efficiency just defrosting) however my ASHP was on a western wall and after the sun was shining on the brickwork it radiated heat back at you.. like @ProDave I think it would make a little difference and had planned to time it to run from 11am so the ambient temp was likely to be a little higher.

Certainly would help defrost in the sunshine!, Electric heaters usually have three pin plugs so I just made sure sockets were in a suitable location.

Can you blow through it ? is it off the hose?

🤣 I thought that happened to me once but realised as they were “ water stop “ connections they won’t let water pass unless something is plugged into it (not saying yours is this but might be worth checking 🤷‍♂️

But most slabs have oodles of insulation (more than your storage heaters 🤷‍♂️) yes all insulation only slows heat loss but I believe many here have proved it works.

I am not sure “payback period” is that relevant for MVHR if its prime function is comfort and we are willing to pay for it. 🤷‍♂️

But no two houses/builds react the same to “weather/temps” as no two “people” react to the conditions the same. I remember Jeremy going into minute detail of local weather patterns, designing his own weather curves etc etc But in the end he scrapped it and fitted a single room stat but he still found he needed more cooling than heating which nothing predicted for him. I liked the MVHR I fitted and the house had an airy feel even with all the windows shut, however during warm weather and doors and windows open I would switch it off. I wanted to run it on a CO (is that right Nick?) monitor to detect stale air but was told they are expensive and not that reliable so I ran it on a humidity sensor.

I agree, brilliant stuff and if you make the wood damp it foams more.

Aw thanks, life’s better now thanks in my little Forest cottage STRESS FREE!!,!

Well I went ASHP due to lack of mains gas and seeing oil being fazed out, although well insulated not quite up to passive standards and the fact I found a cheap EBay heat pump and basically copied Jeremy’s instal. Electric towel rads for the bathrooms. At least the UFH loops were there for any other kind of heating In The future. I would have added solar panels had I stayed there (dont ask!,!)

I am no SE but I cannot see why he said no, seems very practical to me, would be interesting to hear why he said no 🤷‍♂️. Mind you a thermal bridge only occurs when one side is outside insulation and the other inside!!!

if you do fit isolation valves make sure they are “full flow” ones (some restrict flow).

Those two contradict one another. If it were a passive house heating should be minimal whatever the source OR the ASHP has not been designed properly or installed properly.

Yes, in a word. If it fails it could effect you house/garden.

Don’t listen to @SteamyTea he is allergic to cats and dogs, I have a dog indoors (and have done fir may years) with no humidity problems. No, and ASHP produces hot/warm water for use in underfloor heating or radiators, and an air to air heat pump produces warm air (like a fan heater) to blow into the house/room, they also can blow cool air like an air conditioner.

Ok, but it’s still a case of telling subs exactly what you want.

Just a case of telling subs EXACTLY what you want, no assumptions. ( I think it’s to avoid the shower door by the look of it. )

I sent planning docs as those specify “new build” as apposed to building regs that could apply to anything.

Tip, don’t shift it twice, get the digger in, decide on the height and size of the flat section (middle of the garden?) then shift excess to where it needs to go. The ground will settle after a while and you can fettle with paths, wall, banks at your leisure.

IMO you do not need to go back to planning, they are only really interested in how it looks from the outside, building regs are about if it will be safe. It’s a shame you didn’t get what you wanted.

It appears your ground is fairly free draining. Banks can be sloped and planted, I created a rockery on mine which helps retain soil pockets. Even the “flat” section will be best with a little slope for rain to run off. To negate getting rid of or importing soil if you can keep it all just by relocating it you will save money and effort.

Having a previous house with sloping garden I understand the issue of flat area for kids (and adults), I created a patio area with banking above for flowers and it worked well, the patio area (crazy paving because it was cheap back then) was usable even when the lawn was wet/muddy.

How about a large circular flat area in the middle laid to lawn or patio (or 50/50) then the four corners of the garden slope up and down to existing fences with planting in them. If you create retaining walls around the garden that’s removing fences, foundations, concrete etc etc s lot of work.